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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/05/2015 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    It looks like this barn find may need some work. There's a box on the front seat with the starter, the distributor, the carb, the air cleaner, and some tools. There's a brand new valve cover gasket though. All of the spark plugs are out of the engine and there's a can of Marvel Mystery Oil, so the engine is probably stuck. Maybe that's why there's a For Sale sign in the box too. IMG_1384 by Brian Smith, on Flickr IMG_1385 by Brian Smith, on Flickr IMG_1386 by Brian Smith, on Flickr IMG_1387 by Brian Smith, on Flickr IMG_1389 by Brian Smith, on Flickr IMG_1390 by Brian Smith, on Flickr
  2. 3 points
    By filling in the square space left from removing the headlight surround with sheet styrene, one can minimize the amount of filler needed. I'm leery of Squadron putties, and they will shrink over time. I suggest superglue plus baking powder, or a two-part polyester putty like Evercoat.
  3. 3 points
    Cool! I am building a real 4200 with a Mercury and the same scheme on the truck. Pic is photo shopped as she is still a day cab.
  4. 3 points
    Work continues! The fenders were modified to give them an "old-school" kind of look, and to eliminate the huge gap between the fender lip and the tops of the tires. I also built up the kit bumper to a deep-draw bumper. I see 1:1 Pete's with fenders like these, but the bumper just has straight edges, and I just think it looks weird. I prefer the bumpers which continue the arc of the wheel opening, so that's what I did with mine. And now a quick mockup of the modified (but still unfinished) fenders and bumper with the grille in place, just to see where I stand.
  5. 3 points
    I build a variety of model types- everything from HO scale buildings to RMS Titanic. But my favorite thing about the big truck kits is variation. There aren't too many other genres you can build in so many ways. Take the AMT Diamond REO. Right out of the box it makes a decent day cab or sleeper tractor. Or you can modify the hood (or get the hood from GW Trucks) and do it with a set back front axle. You could make up the steel butterfly hood and pit fenders for it. Or rework the existing grille to the earlier style... or even built it as a Diamond T or REO. You can leave it a tractor, or put a wrecker body on it. Or a cement mixer. Or a dump box... That's just one example, but you see what I mean. You can name pretty much any one truck kit out there, and then go on to come up with at least 20 or 30 different ways you could build it.
  6. 2 points
    Here is my Western Star Re-builder that has been a pain for sometimes.. ..this is the 5th time i painted this truck as it was built in 1986 ..its old , still has brass photo etch heat shields on it, back in the day they were no stainless photo etch.. first it was gray then yellow then black and orange then seaside blue and now it some color Honda green i got from my friend David Mars while i was up in Dallas..thanks David .., and let me say plastic gets brittle over time and all the soaking to remove the paint..lol..i re-built the log trailer (scratched built) as i never was happy with the first one..the truck was all ready plumbed (back then i could see lol) ..trailer is also plumbed (took a while lol) ..i also added Louisiana Commercial License plates to truck and trailer and topped that off with a DOT Inspection sticker ..Tim Bogema supplied the western stay decals..(thanks Tim) All in All its finished..i could have did more but its a shelf model.. [/URL
  7. 2 points
    I always loved trucks,when I was a kid my dad owned dump trucks and hauled dirt and gravel,2 old Internationals,Growing up he got me into building model cars and bought me the Diamond Reo truck and loved building it,Continued building until I got my license and got away from building through high school and went to work in the oilfield.Saw lots of nice rigs and eventually became a driver and still doing that deal behind the wheel today.When I got back into building fell immediately back in love with building these big rigs and love the kits that are available..been around them my whole life and now that Im back into modeling I plan on ordering lots more and building,I have seen so many BA builds on here and am so impressed with the quality these guys do on their builds.Im glad to be a part of this community again.
  8. 2 points
    It seems like every truck model with a tilt hood has something off about the fit of the hood to the cab. It seems like if you build by the instructions they never line up the way they should. Here's one area where you will want to ignore the instructions. The instruction sheet usually has you install the cab, then the hood. If you do it that way, chances are good you'll never have an even fit between the hood and cab at the cowl. Hood-to-cab fit is always iffy in general when a tilting hood is concerned, and on those old AMT truck tractor kits in particular. That's not to say that other manufacturers kits are any better, but the AMT kits seem particularly iffy. You can fight the hood fit all day and still not get it looking good, but it's easier to install the hood first, and then tailor the position of the cab to suit, rather than vice-versa. The first thing you want to do is to install the hood hinges to the back of the grille- make sure you get them as close to straight, level, and even as you can. On the chassis, the openings for the hinge pins can be opened up slightly. That will give you a bit more "wiggle room" so that you can fine tune the hood position. Tape cab to the hood, making sure the rear of the hood fits tight and flush against the cowl of the cab. On a kit like the White Road Boss, where the hood isn't meant to fit against the cowl, this can be trickier, but still workable. Gently close the temporarily unified hood/cab to get a feel for any modifications you will need to do to the cab's mounting points. Now, onto the cab mounts themselves. You may have to remove material from the top of each of the front cab mounts. You may also want to move the rear cab mount/crossmember a couple millimeters forward of it's intended position. You can install it in the intended location, but know that you may need to bend the mounts forward and/or trim material from the top and possibly rear of them. Here are a few photos explaining the process, on Tim Ahlborn's Fotki page- http://public.fotki.com/mackinac359/how-i-did-it/amt-white-western-s/ Tim's tutorial uses an AMT White Western Star, but the same basic techniques can be used on any kit.
  9. 2 points
    This began with a resin cab and fenders from KP Conversion. The frame, front springs, front axle, tanks and brake chambers, and radiator are from the AMT R-Model Mack. The rear Peterbilt Air Leaf suspension, fifth wheel plate and the battery box are from the Snap Peterbilt. The transmission, front bumper, and air bags (cast copies) are from the Ertl Transtar II. The wheels, tires, drive axles, mud flaps, pogo stick, shifter, pedals, drive shaft and fifth wheel are AMT from the parts box. The seats are from the Monogram CJ-7. The engine is a 4-71 Detroit cut down from a Spaulding Trading and Shipping 6-71 with some 8v-71 parts too. The Monogram 50 Ford Pickup donated a few parts as well. IMG_2165 by Brian Smith, on Flickr IMG_2167 by Brian Smith, on Flickr IMG_2174 by Brian Smith, on Flickr IMG_E2129 by Brian Smith, on Flickr IMG_2134 by Brian Smith, on Flickr IMG_2132 by Brian Smith, on Flickr IMG_2126 by Brian Smith, on Flickr IMG_2114 by Brian Smith, on Flickr IMG_2117 by Brian Smith, on Flickr IMG_2164 by Brian Smith, on Flickr
  10. 2 points
    Got the details on the air tank mounts added, rear cab pad, the exhaust "rattle box" done, fifth wheel plate mounted and partial details added and the fuel tanks built and detailing started. Started the cab. Cut the sleeper area down, made a grill for it and added vent window posts. The windshield divider was a bit of work as the windshield is Vee'd only 10 degrees. Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki
  11. 2 points
    This was built from the AMT Freightliner SD kit. Everything was de-chromed and painted appropriate colors. The aluminum wheels on the front probably aren't correct, but C-F was known to do a lot of wierd things over the years. Again headlights stolen from an old western shirt. I get those shirts for a couple of bucks at the second hand store, each one has enough headlights for about 6 trucks. Tail lights are rhinestones from the craft store. Pictures were taken by the staff photographer at the GSL. My favorite truck build so far.
  12. 2 points
    Ron Andrews at RMR has taken possession of all the R&R molds. He is currently working his way through them and getting them ready to add to his catalog.
  13. 2 points
    For those who like pictures. The ass end is just about done. Now for the hard part. Those are resin lights from P&P. Scratch built the mount and shot it with Alclad II. The turn signal is a small diameter aluminum pipe with the marker lights from the extra Peterbilt kit I had to buy. Thanks dog for eating my homework...
  14. 2 points
    Looking real good. Working on that motor would be zero fun.
  15. 2 points
    this is a fairly old build.If my stuff turns out as nice as this one I'm happy,as its my favorite
  16. 2 points
    Finally found time to finish these. They are available if anyone is interested.
  17. 2 points
    The California Hauler was the first full-detail 1:25 scale kit of a Peterbilt... so I guess it's fitting that the first Peterbilt model I've ever built (or is it bilt?) is a reissue of that kit. I took a few liberties with mine. The cab visor is a later model meant for an 1100 Series cab, but it fits the Unilite well enough. I stretched the hood, and swapped in a Cummins engine. IIRC the "long" hood was only available with the Detroit V12 on the early 359- back then you couldn't just order the long hood. If you wanted the long hood you ordered the big engine and that was that. The kit's front fenders looked a little dainty, so I went with modified front fenders taken from a Revell 359 snap kit. I also set aside the kit's short, skinny Firestone tires and went with some girthier-looking Goodyears. Though it's a "California Hauler", the kit includes Michigan plates and registration stickers, which was nice for me, living in Michigan and all. In hindsight, I wish I hadn't gone with a brown interior. It's factory correct, but I'm just not fond of how it looks. And if I did it all over again, I'd paint the visor to match the cab rather than foil it. I may add some door graphics later on, but so far, I'm as pleased as I can realistically be with my first Pete. I know exactly what I'll do differently on the next one, that's for sure.
  18. 2 points
    I added the center portion of the fender a couple of days ago and I have poured half of the mold for the fender. Waiting for it to cure so I can make the second half. Wish me luck!
  19. 2 points
    I use dollar store super glue and super glues fix all adhesive on a toothpick it's like rubber and doesn't discolor things and keeps things in place without having to hold etc works really good if careful. works great repairing leather too because it's flexible great stuff super cheap at a buck a tube and it's a big tube
  20. 2 points
    I have made some progress on the build over the last week or so. Rebuilt the loader's ladder.Made a lot of progress on rebuilding the log bed. It was not "heavy" enough.Swapped the 65K rear suspension for a 55K set-up.It's funny how some parts look much larger/thicker in the images than they are. Photography is obviously not my thing...
  21. 2 points
    I had to backtrack some of the build. I have reworked the drive gear main boom and upper boom support, and added the outer boom, cylinders and a few other odds and ends. Progress has been slow as I am learning as I build and it needs a little putty and sanding but I am pretty happy thus far. Note: not sure if the part names are correct, not an expert...
  22. 2 points
    lowered the front and rear. Scratched built the stack rack and moved the left tank forward. She's coming along slowly but getting there.
  23. 2 points
    Two trucks I built some years back, right after each other. A Revell of Germany Peterbilt 359, pretty much box stock except for the engine, I spooned in the CAT 3406 from a SnapTite kit. The Kenworth W-900A is built box stock. On the Pete I painted the "Seminole" livery myself, pulled a little trick by extending the paint job over the radiator crown, making the hood look longer. With the company decals and the custom license plates, the trucks look related although they're pretty different.
  24. 2 points
    The Original Super Glue (two in a package for a buck at Dollar General), usually the thin stuff (red cap) but occasionally I'll use the gel (green cap). I use good old white craft glue for things like clear lenses. I also live dangerously sometimes and use it on clear parts, if the glue surface isn't exposed, in which case I'll revert to the white glue. Yes, cyanoacrylate glue can "fog" clear and chrome parts, but usually a quick swipe or two with a polishing cloth or a thin, brushed on coat of Pledge Future floor polish (or whatever clear you prefer to use) will do away with that. I used to use two-part epoxy but never liked it- just too messy for me.
  25. 2 points
    Very nice. I dig the Canadian spread look.
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