Casey

Wow! That is fantastic. Beautiful work.

I'm looking forward to seeing how this turns out with the photoetched parts and all. Please keep us updated.

Glad to have you with us!

Wow. That is looking great! That hood is awesome. --Casey

There are a few ways to post a picture. (1) Copy the image to clip board and then paste the directly into the editor when creating or replying to a post. (2) Drag and drop files in the attachment block (the area with the paper clip below). (3) Click "choose file" on the attachment block, navigate to the image on your computer, select the image and then click "open". After adding pictures to the attachment block (2)(3), place the curser where you want to add the image in the editor, and then click the plus symbol on the image to add it to the editor. I hope I have written these instructions well enough to get you headed in the right direction. If not, please let me know and I'll try to clarify. --Casey

Disclaimer. I am not professional and there is a possibility that I have no clue what I am doing. I hope that I have put enough info together to give you a good I idea of the steps that I use to create single hump fenders. If clarification is need, please let me know and I add info/edit as required. Sorry for not taking a few more/better images. Hope this helps! 1. Begin by cutting a 1 15/16" round disk from a sheet of .040 sheet styrene. I used a bow compass with metal points on both sided to get the job done. If you use this method be sure to make the center hole the same size as the compass point; if it is larger you will not get a symmetrical disk. 2. Mount the disk on a Dremel cutting wheel attachment. (The image below shows two mounted but one is fine.) 3. Begin to round the outer edge of the disk using a rasp of other coarse file, sanding stick etc. 4. Fine tune the chamfer of the outer edge of the fender with a sanding block. I used 220 grit sanding paper. 5. Finished disk on the right. 6. Before performing this step make a mark that divides the disk into two equal halves. Then cut the center out of the disk leaving a 5/8" circle and then cut the circle in two. You will then have two "C" shaped pieces as seen in step 7. 7. Glue a .060 x.040 styrene strip (SS1) around the outer edge of the "C". One of the .040 sides should be glued to the "C" and the strip should extend beyond the end of the "C". 8. Cut a hole with the same diameter as inner hole of the upper fender wall (UFW) above from a sheet od styrene and layout and cut the lower fender wall (LFW) as seen in the image below and the image in the next step. (Sorry for not taking better pics of this part) 9. Glue the LFW to the UFW and SS1, and cut the ends off SS1 off at the lower edge of the LFW. 10. Cut the lower portion of the LFW to achieve the desired fender height. 11. Glue a .030 x .250 strip (SS2) inside of SS1. 12. Make another side just like the one above. 13. Cut two strips of .020 styrene to the desired fender width (don't forget to account for the width od the sides) and long enough to wrap around the outside of the fender. 14. Beginning at one end, glue the first SS3 to SS2, wrapping it around the outer edge of the fender as you go. Be sure to keep the seam between SS3 and SS1 on each side as tight as possible. Cut the ends even with the lower ends of the fender side walls. 15. Wrap the second SS3 over the first SS3. Again, keep the seam between SS3 and SS1 on each side as tight as possible and cut the ends even with the lower ends of the fender side walls. Construction complete! Fill and Prime Paint Repeat x4. If all this seems like too much work, you can purchase a resin set in the Parts Store. --Casey

I se that your parts arrived. Nice looking ride!!

Sounds like it will be a killer ride. Can’t wait to follow you progress.

Nice Looking builds Brian. Welcome to MTB.com!

I finally finished it...for now... I may go back and touch up a few thing. I built this truck for an online contest over at The Unfinished Big Rig Model Truck Club on Facebook. I didn't fair as well in the voting as I hoped it would. Maybe I'll do better next time. Regardless, it was a great learning experience. The concept was to create a resto-mod COE Freightliner. I started with a fresh AMT COE Freightliner Kit. All other lifted parts were salvaged from the parts box. Chassis: Frame stretch using the rails from an AMT Peterbilt. Air ride suspension from an Italeri FLD 120 Engine: Cummins engine from an Italeri FLD 120 modified into an N14 (new heads, valve covers, fuel pump, etc.). Air to air setup was added to the radiator. Plumbing and hoses were built from the parts box and misc. wire. Clamps chrome sticker. Cab: Scratch built visor. Snap Pete mirrors. Rear fenders: Scratch built. Fifth wheel: ROG Peterbilt. Deck plates and rear light panel: scratch built from styrene Cab Steps: Scratch built. Fuel tanks: Stretched using like tanks from parts box. Air cleaners: ROG Peterbilt. Scratch built piping and parts box plumbing. Stack tops: Tubing wrapped in chrome sticker. Air Lines: Earl Miller. Wheels and tires: Mobius.

Great looking build. Thanks for sharing!

Fantastic build. The bed even has a few dents/creases in it...very nice!

Very cool! Great Job!

Fantastic build!! COE Brockway! Very nice. As always, fantastic build quality.

Iisay yes and nice build!

I just wanted to make a quick note to say thank you to the admins at Model Truck Discussion, Model Truck Mafia, Building Big Rigs Tips and how did you do it and Model Trucks Other Than Pete or KW for allowing me advertise MTB.com in their Facebook groups. Thank you to those that have given me permission to post images of their builds in the gallery, to those who have added their own images and to those who have posted in the forums. Finally, thanks to all who have visited and/or registered. I hope you find your way here often, contribute content when and where you can, and most importantly, find the site useful and enjoyable. Please do not hesitate to let me know what I can do to make MTB.com better. --Casey

This post was originally posted in the blog on 5 Oct.

This post was originally posted in the Blog on January 26.

Love that chassis color!

Welcome Kerry! Glad to have you with us!

Spot on as usual. Thanks for sharing!

I have made several attempts at bending aluminum tubing to but have been unsuccessful in doing so without getting a flat spot in the bend. Can someone share a method that works or suggest and alternate material/procedure? --Casey