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Everything posted by Casey

  1. Casey

    New Forum

    Good evening everyone. I have added a new forum category and this forum for 1:1 truck general discussion of real trucks. If you all see a need to add additional forums to the category, let me know. In the meantime, post away. --Casey
  2. Casey

    Truck stuff

    Please post away. I intend to revamp the reference section and I will likely migrate some of it to it but this forum is fine for now. All contributions are welcomed and appreciated. —Casey
  3. Now available in the MTB Parts Store: ROG Pete Fat Front Fenders http://www.modeltruckbuilder.com/index.php?/store/
  4. Sorry I missed this post. We currently do not offer any hoods but I do have an extended hood for the ROG snap Pete in work. It will be at least a month or so before I will have the opportunity to finish and cast it. I'll make a post when it is available.
  5. Casey

    1948 Sterling HC 175

    Awesome as always. I look forward to watching it come together.
  6. Casey

    Long time lurker, now joined

    Welcome! Glad to have you as a registered member.
  7. Casey

    Revell Peterbilt 359 Farm Truck

    Beautiful job @vincen47!
  8. Casey


    Glad to have you with us!
  9. Casey

    Brockway 760

    Good looking ride! You fenders are on the way!
  10. Casey

    1985 Peterbilt

    Contact Kuenn McClinton at eewmag.com, he is also the owner of De-Elegant. He can is on FaceBook as well.
  11. Casey


  12. Casey

    Al B

    Check with Jamie at Moluminum.com. --Casey
  13. Casey

    Revel Pete 359

    Nice job! Those Revell kits are great. BTW, that is a 359 Pete. 🧐
  14. Casey

    1/6 metal k-100 scratch build.

    You put a lot of detail into that thing. I can certainly appreciate the amount of work you put into it. Thanks for sharing!
  15. Casey

    Dragon Tiger I Wittmans last Tiger

    Very cool.
  16. Casey

    Slider 1.jpg

    © Earl Miller

  17. Casey


    Get with Jamie at Moluminum. He makes some awesome wheels and tires. www.moluminum.com
  18. Casey

    Darren Nance.jpg

    © Darren Nance

  19. Casey

    1913 Model T van

    Wow! That is fantastic. Beautiful work.
  20. Casey


    I'm looking forward to seeing how this turns out with the photoetched parts and all. Please keep us updated.
  21. Casey

    The new guy

    Glad to have you with us!
  22. Casey

    Mashpee 354 International R190

    Wow. That is looking great! That hood is awesome. --Casey
  23. Casey

    posting a picture

    There are a few ways to post a picture. (1) Copy the image to clip board and then paste the directly into the editor when creating or replying to a post. (2) Drag and drop files in the attachment block (the area with the paper clip below). (3) Click "choose file" on the attachment block, navigate to the image on your computer, select the image and then click "open". After adding pictures to the attachment block (2)(3), place the curser where you want to add the image in the editor, and then click the plus symbol on the image to add it to the editor. I hope I have written these instructions well enough to get you headed in the right direction. If not, please let me know and I'll try to clarify. --Casey
  24. Casey

    Single Hump Fenders

    Disclaimer. I am not professional and there is a possibility that I have no clue what I am doing. I hope that I have put enough info together to give you a good I idea of the steps that I use to create single hump fenders. If clarification is need, please let me know and I add info/edit as required. Sorry for not taking a few more/better images. Hope this helps! 1. Begin by cutting a 1 15/16" round disk from a sheet of .040 sheet styrene. I used a bow compass with metal points on both sided to get the job done. If you use this method be sure to make the center hole the same size as the compass point; if it is larger you will not get a symmetrical disk. 2. Mount the disk on a Dremel cutting wheel attachment. (The image below shows two mounted but one is fine.) 3. Begin to round the outer edge of the disk using a rasp of other coarse file, sanding stick etc. 4. Fine tune the chamfer of the outer edge of the fender with a sanding block. I used 220 grit sanding paper. 5. Finished disk on the right. 6. Before performing this step make a mark that divides the disk into two equal halves. Then cut the center out of the disk leaving a 5/8" circle and then cut the circle in two. You will then have two "C" shaped pieces as seen in step 7. 7. Glue a .060 x.040 styrene strip (SS1) around the outer edge of the "C". One of the .040 sides should be glued to the "C" and the strip should extend beyond the end of the "C". 8. Cut a hole with the same diameter as inner hole of the upper fender wall (UFW) above from a sheet od styrene and layout and cut the lower fender wall (LFW) as seen in the image below and the image in the next step. (Sorry for not taking better pics of this part) 9. Glue the LFW to the UFW and SS1, and cut the ends off SS1 off at the lower edge of the LFW. 10. Cut the lower portion of the LFW to achieve the desired fender height. 11. Glue a .030 x .250 strip (SS2) inside of SS1. 12. Make another side just like the one above. 13. Cut two strips of .020 styrene to the desired fender width (don't forget to account for the width od the sides) and long enough to wrap around the outside of the fender. 14. Beginning at one end, glue the first SS3 to SS2, wrapping it around the outer edge of the fender as you go. Be sure to keep the seam between SS3 and SS1 on each side as tight as possible. Cut the ends even with the lower ends of the fender side walls. 15. Wrap the second SS3 over the first SS3. Again, keep the seam between SS3 and SS1 on each side as tight as possible and cut the ends even with the lower ends of the fender side walls. Construction complete! Fill and Prime Paint Repeat x4. If all this seems like too much work, you can purchase a resin set in the Parts Store. --Casey