Jump to content

FORUMS

Gallery

Blogs

Reference

Parts Store

  • Our picks

    • Peterbilt 358 twin stick 1100 cab
      This is an AMT 359 1100 cab kit with a Bill Drennen conversion. 8v-71 Detroit power with a Spicer 4x4 twin stick transmission.


       


       


       


       


       


       


       


       


       


       
      • 10 replies
    • 1948 Sterling HC 175
      The Reo has gone to the caster.  Here's what is next.  A nice compact Sterling to build into a heavy duty dump.  The West Coast version was modified by shortening the hood and changing the chrome trim to louvers.  The radiator was also modifiedl
      • 30 replies
    • Dodge L1000
      Here are a few pics of my latest build. Cab is from AITM, chassis is the AMT GMC cabover. 
      • 3 replies
    • 1950 Ford F4 Wrecker
      I was building this as filler for my Leach unit. Rear wrecker body and rear chassis is modified from the Encore Model Bedford break down truck. The front chassis and cab is a modified Monogram '50 Ford F1 cab and chassis. The Bedford front axle was modified to fit he Ford chassis. The cab fenders were re radiused and the fender bottoms lengthened to F4 design. wheels and tires are from the Bedford.  The kit boom is a licensed copy of a late 1940 Manley hand crank unit. The vintage Bang Bar is scratch build. Beacon light is aluminum tube and an Orange LED.  Up graded the engine to an early 1950's Desoto 354 Hemi.  Paint is Krylon and decals are parts box. Ford and F4 are Modelcar Garage Photo etch.  The headlights in the last photo are coated with thinned Tamiya Clear Smoke. I feel it makes the look more realistic with shadows and shiny areas.   Fun build.  Paul

       

      Hosted on Fotki

      Hosted on Fotki

      Hosted on Fotki

      Hosted on Fotki

      Hosted on Fotki

      Hosted on Fotki

      Hosted on Fotki

      Hosted on Fotki

       

       
        • Like
      • 7 replies
    • Recent builds
      I figured rather than start a bunch of topics, I’d lump them all into one. Built these during my time off due to COVID-19.

       
        • Like
      • 11 replies
  • Latest Forum Posts
    • Reo Gold Comet
      By vincen47 · Posted
      Top notch! Excellent work. That blue looks great - I really love the finish. What a project, what a finish!
    • Reo Gold Comet
      By DRIPTROIT 71 · Posted
      Looks Amazing! Nice job casting those lights!
    • Reo Gold Comet
      By Chariots of Fire · Posted
      A lot finished since the last post.  Not much more to do before it can go into "service".  A fair amount of work to fill the compartments with equipment.
    • acid tanker
      By NAVY · Posted
      Good work! Having pulled tankers, all types for round 13 years yours is not so uncommon.  Tanks that size would have organic peroxide or hydrogen peroxide or even sodium hydroxide (caustic soda)  placard 1824. Now caustic is heavy, almost 3x that of water so in a regular tank you could only fill it about 2/3 full, that leaves a lot of slosh room in a smooth bore tank. One must bee smoooth on the braking and shifting overall it all that goo comes forward quick and hard.   Soo back to the small bore tank, you could fill it full and alleviate the slosh to a degree.  Peroxide tanks in paper mills and what not are not that large so a small bore tank would be a full load for some of those applications.   Keep on trucking gang !
    • Ford CL9000
      By goingsouth58 · Posted
      great job
    • acid tanker
      By vincen47 · Posted
      Yeah, thought about the ribs too, helping to disguise the tank diameter. I’ve seen some pretty narrow tank trailers before without ribs, too. Maybe compressed gas or something. Regardless, having it sit on the shelf won’t hurt anything, until the time comes to use it. 
    • acid tanker
      By fubar · Posted
      vince, yeah not sure what im going to do with it, thought of putting external ribs on the barrel and making a catwalk to hide the barrel, who knows lol its on the someday shelf , take care buddy
    • acid tanker
      By vincen47 · Posted
      Hmm. Trying to think what you could convert it into. Maybe the tank itself could become a load for a flatbed? A tank of that size would have multiple uses in stationary industrial applications, being delivered as new or a retired one hauled for scrap. It could be detailed with the tank base, mounts, piping outlets, etc. Then, the remaining frame could be fitted with a larger diameter tank to complete the original build concept, which was a good idea.
    • acid tanker
      By fubar · Posted
      what started as a good idea , when the first round of covid lock downs came in couldnt go to hobby store was in between builds i had a bunch of transformers from lowboy kits never use i thought id try making a acid tanker , had a vintage shell tanker kit the plastic was to warped to use to build i used as a donor , the scale of the tank barrel is to small looked too out of place hooked behind a truck
    • Ford CL9000
      By fubar · Posted
      pretty cool nice build , you did a awesome job on paint  
  • Scale Converter (in, cm, mm)
     
    Convert:       
     
    Value:  
     
    Answer:  
     
       
  • Blog Entries

    • By Gary Austin in How-To
         0
      Does anyone know how to fabricate or have any Idea on how to make a Texas style bumper? Thank you 
    • By Joris in Joris' Blog
         1
      A little progress on the Build-Off Pete. Not much, but haven't had much time to tinker around.
      I'd say the truck is on the home stretch here; mirror brackets are on, rear mudflaps and tail lights. The exhaust tips I have ready as well, just waiting before I have put some work behind me that could snap them off again. The hood is done and waiting as well, I just need to figure out the hinges since the resin aftermarket part isn't prepared for the kit's hinges. Also I fear that I might have mounted the cab a little too high (talking about halves of millimeters) so I need to set the hood just right. With all the effort on the C15, I try to make the hood functional.


      After that it's off to the upfitter, for the custom bumper and rear fenders. Mirrors will be the last items on, last decals will be the license plates.
    • By Casey in How-To
         6
      Disclaimer.  I am not professional and there is a possibility that I have no clue what I am doing.  I hope that I have put enough info together to give you a good I idea of the steps that I use to create single hump fenders.  If clarification is need, please let me know and I add info/edit as required.  Sorry for not taking a few more/better images.  Hope this helps! 

      1.  Begin by cutting a 1 15/16" round disk from a sheet of .040 sheet styrene.  I used a bow compass with metal points on both sided to get the job done.  If you use this method be sure to make the center hole the same size as the compass point; if it is larger you will not get a symmetrical disk.

      2.  Mount the disk on a Dremel cutting wheel attachment. (The image below shows two mounted but one is fine.)
       
      3.  Begin to round the outer edge of the disk using a rasp of other coarse file, sanding stick etc.

      4.  Fine tune the chamfer of the outer edge of the fender with a sanding block.  I used 220 grit sanding paper.

      5.  Finished disk on the right.

      6. Before performing this step make a mark that divides the disk into two equal halves.  Then cut the center out of the disk leaving a 5/8" circle and then cut the circle in two.  You will then have two "C" shaped pieces as seen in step 7.
      7.  Glue a .060 x.040 styrene strip (SS1) around the outer edge of the "C".  One of the .040 sides should be glued to the "C" and the strip should extend beyond the end of the "C".

      8.  Cut a hole with the same diameter as inner hole of the upper fender wall (UFW) above from a sheet od styrene and layout and cut the lower fender wall (LFW) as seen in the image below and the image in the next step.  (Sorry for not taking better pics of this part)

       9.  Glue the LFW to the UFW and SS1, and cut the ends off SS1 off at the lower edge of the LFW. 

      10.  Cut the lower portion of the LFW to achieve the desired fender height.

      11.  Glue a .030 x .250 strip (SS2) inside of SS1.

      12.  Make another side just like the one above.

      13.  Cut two strips of .020 styrene to the desired fender width (don't forget to account for the width od the sides) and long enough to wrap around the outside of the fender.

      14.  Beginning at one end, glue the first SS3 to SS2, wrapping it around the outer edge of the fender as you go. Be sure to keep the seam between SS3 and SS1 on each side as tight as possible. Cut the ends even with the lower ends of the fender side walls.


      15.  Wrap the second SS3 over the first SS3.  Again, keep the seam between SS3 and SS1 on each side as tight as possible and cut the ends even with the lower ends of the fender side walls.

      Construction complete!

      Fill and Prime

      Paint

      Repeat x4.
      If all this seems like too much work, you can purchase a resin set in the Parts Store. 

      --Casey
       
       
       
    • By Casey in MTB.com Admin Blog
         5
      I just wanted to make a quick note to say thank you to the admins at Model Truck Discussion, Model Truck Mafia, Building Big Rigs Tips and how did you do it and Model Trucks Other Than Pete or KW for allowing me advertise MTB.com  in their Facebook groups.  Thank you to those that have given me permission to post images of their builds in the gallery, to those who have added their own images and to those who have posted in the forums. Finally, thanks to all who have visited and/or registered.  I hope you find your way here often, contribute content when and where you can,  and most importantly, find the site useful and enjoyable.
      Please do not hesitate to let me know what I can do to make MTB.com better.
      --Casey
×