This part is more of a personal preference from past experiences.  The AMT Ford C Series cab over is offered with a variety of bodies.... box truck delivery,trash truck and a flat bed,stake truck.  I am going to presume that all 3 bodies mount the same way to the chassis...I am only familiar with the trash truck...in that there are locating pins on the chassis and corresponding holes on the body.     I.M.H.O the trash truck body sits too close to the tires.  In the 1:1 world this is inviting a D.O.T enforcement inspector to pull you over for an inspection...either your overweight or something is broke on the suspension....either way it will ruin your day.  A good rule of thumb is aprox. 6" of clearance between the top of the tire and the bottom of the body ( box truck, garbage truck, flat bed. etc. etc.) with no load.  As far as the box truck and flat bed trucks go , I don't know if they sit any higher or lower than the garbage truck body....from what I can tell from pictures of builds, they have about the same clearance as the trash truck. I am going with 6 scale inches (6 m.m) of clearance. I needed to add 2.79mm. to get 6.6 mm.  The larger round tube is the spacer cut to 2.79 mm. It is Evergreen part# 224 1/8" tube (3.2 mm.)  it fits snugly over the pins on the chassis.    The smaller rod is the locating pin that fits into the bottom side of the body.  It is Evergreen part# 212   080" rod (2.0 mm.)  You will have to slightly open up the end of the Evergreen tubing to get the rod to fit inside.      I will fill in the area between the new spacers to illuminate the gaps.  6 mm. of clearance, right on the money.           

The cab presents the most visible issues.  I've personally seen more than a few where the cab is still tilted slightly forward in the down position and worse.  The stories abound about the frustrations some builders have had with getting the cab to sit right and to be able to tilt the cab forward without coming into contact with the grill.  Despite what the instructions say, do not attach the rear cab support until everything is where it needs to be and your satisfied with the results.      I had to make  small notch on the inner splash panels.  The reason was that the splash panel was sitting on top of the upper shock mount, thus not allowing the cab to seat properly in the rear cab support.  Another area to take a look at is the radiator.  The top of the radiator could possibly come into contact with the bottom side of the cab interior floor pan.    When attaching the floor pan make sure that the foot box (rectangle box area adjacent to the doors) is level with the bottom of the cab and that the rest of floor pan is level.  Doing this is the first part in helping to prevent the cab from coming into contact with the grill when being tilted forward.   Note the area where I had to remove a portion of the underside due to clearance issues...some of it was due to scratch building , some of it wasn't.  This is the second part in helping to prevent the cab from coming into contact with the grill when being tilted forward.  The reason that the cab comes into contact with the grill is that the grill, when properly attached according to the instructions, is too far forward.  With the cab in place, start removing material from the front portion of the frame rails.  Test fit the bumper/grill,     The round, outer portions of the grill need to be flush with the front of the cab.  Here are some 1:1 examples: 

Here’s the latest update. Over the past couple months, I’ve been finishing the exterior bodywork on the stacker trailer.  I’ve done a lot of corrections to the wheel well trim - one of the most difficult things to get right on this trailer.  I’ve put four coats of primer on it, correcting minor imperfections in between. More filling and sanding than I originally anticipated, but there’s light at the end of the tunnel. The above photos show one of the workbench sanding sessions in between primer coats. Below are photos from the paint booth during what I hope is the second to last layer of primer.

Slowly warm it with a hair dryer and reshape it.  Hold it in place while it cools and it should be good to go.  Be gentle with the heat and the reshaping.  If you cannot get it back in shape, shoot me a message   

Unfortunately there is not an easy "fix" .....a picture of the hood would be most helpful    

I just got the parts I ordered including two 3d printed extended hoods for Revell Germany Peterbilt 359 kits. One of them looks good but the other is spread outwards and out of shape and needs to get back to shape...how can I do that without destroying the part?

Hey, how are ya, thanks for looking, may do this kit bash again in a custom road truck. 

Nice custom fabrication. Something you’d see at a truck show attracting a big crowd. Aftermarket tires and the grille screen make a big difference. That engine is a beast!

This build was wrapped up a few weeks ago. It is a kit bash with the Watkins 925 and the Malone race truck. I used the long hood (15mm longer than stock) and the twin blower/ twin turbo V12 engine. The turbos were exchanged for larger turbos and re-plumbed for an intercooler.  Frame stretch, hand built aluminum exhaust, custom fuel tanks, fabricated headache rack, grill was cut out and replaced with a screen, custom interior, aftermarket tires, and cast mirrors.