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    • 1950 Ford F4 Wrecker
      I was building this as filler for my Leach unit. Rear wrecker body and rear chassis is modified from the Encore Model Bedford break down truck. The front chassis and cab is a modified Monogram '50 Ford F1 cab and chassis. The Bedford front axle was modified to fit he Ford chassis. The cab fenders were re radiused and the fender bottoms lengthened to F4 design. wheels and tires are from the Bedford.  The kit boom is a licensed copy of a late 1940 Manley hand crank unit. The vintage Bang Bar is scratch build. Beacon light is aluminum tube and an Orange LED.  Up graded the engine to an early 1950's Desoto 354 Hemi.  Paint is Krylon and decals are parts box. Ford and F4 are Modelcar Garage Photo etch.  The headlights in the last photo are coated with thinned Tamiya Clear Smoke. I feel it makes the look more realistic with shadows and shiny areas.   Fun build.  Paul

       

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        • Like
      • 6 replies
    • Recent builds
      I figured rather than start a bunch of topics, I’d lump them all into one. Built these during my time off due to COVID-19.

       
        • Like
      • 8 replies
    • 1914 Dennis
      Ancient AirFix 1/32 scale kit of the London Fire Brigades 1914 DENNIS. The real unit served from 1917 up to the late 1940's and served all through the London Blitz. The kit has minor detailing and Tamiya lacquer paint. This is one of the only ones I've seen built.

      Hosted on Fotki

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      • 4 replies
    • AMT KENWORTH Alaskan Hauler
      Finished this build today. 
        • Like
      • 12 replies
    • Ford Aeromax 120 RV Conversion and Custom Galaxie Enclosed Trailer
      Here’s a scratch built RV Conversion on an Italeri Aeromax Chassis, along with a customized 27’ Enclosed Car Hauler, for a weekend warrior that goes to the track in style. 


      The whole project was an enjoyable building experience, and my first major scratch building endeavor.

      The RV body is curbside, though it does have window shades.

      Power is a Italeri Detroit Series 60, from a Pete 378 kit. The trailer is detailed on the inside, ready to haul the latest money pit to the track.

       

      There’s a lot of aftermarket parts and materials along with scratch built items. Don’t hesitate to ask questions. Thanks for looking!
        • Like
      • 18 replies
  • Latest Forum Posts
    • International RF-190
      By DRIPTROIT 71 · Posted
      Thanks so much Charles!
    • International RF-190
      By Chariots of Fire · Posted
      Here's a suggestion as a substitute if you don't have the Ford.  Leave the bezels as is and paint the inside area with a Molotow pen or chrome paint. Also with a Molotow pen "paint" the bezels chrome.  Then after it is completely dry mix up some two part epoxy and place it inside the lens area.  Let it build up to where it actually is mounded some.  Be careful that it does not get on the bezel.  This will be the rounded face of the lens.  Let that cure well.  The surface will be smooth but the chrome background will make it look lens-like,  I have often wondered if when the resin was almost cured if putting a thump print on it would make it resemble the reflecting surfaces of a real lens----but I always chicken out.  Maybe a test shot some time!🤣 Hope this helps. Charlie
    • International RF-190
      By DRIPTROIT 71 · Posted
      Thanks Charles. Since these don’t have lenses cast in them, my original plan was to chrome these bezels and add clear lenses. This fiberglass is pretty hard to work with.  I mean hard. Would these be accurate if I did that? With regular resin that has cast in lenses I usually drill out the lenses and replace them with clear ones if I don’t have a kit substitute to replace the whole thing.  Thank you for your advice! I consider your work to be some of the best. Much better than mine.😀 Brian
    • International RF-190
      By Chariots of Fire · Posted
      Brian:  Do you have one of the Ford snowplow kits that you've scrounged parts from?  If the headlight bezels are still there sand these off and replace them with the Ford ones.  That way you will have headlight lenses as well that will go with the bezels.
    • International RF-190
      By DRIPTROIT 71 · Posted
      This is going to be a curb side build but I did cobble together a Red Diamond 450 engine for it. It is by far not perfect, but keep in mind it will only be seen from underneath.
    • Peterbilt 358 twin stick 1100 cab
      By vincen47 · Posted
      Exactly. Just like with real trucks, I enjoy hearing the story behind why something looks, or could look, the way it does. Every dent, scrape, or odd part adds history and life. Makes builds unique.
    • Peterbilt 358 twin stick 1100 cab
      By DRIPTROIT 71 · Posted
      Thanks Tom!! Thanks Vincent! My thought on the bumper, since it was the shiniest part on the truck was that it was a recent replacement after the old one was damaged. While the new one came with holes, new lights weren't in the budget.
    • Peterbilt 358 twin stick 1100 cab
      By vincen47 · Posted
      Great job with this one, as expected. It has that elusive balance of looking realistically used, but not overdone. I like the fact that it has the holes in the bumper for the fog lamps, but being a no-frills fleet truck, they left them out.
    • Peterbilt 358 twin stick 1100 cab
      By Tbill · Posted
      Great looking build, you really captured the look. Love the subtle touches, like the fuel stains and such. Well done!
    • AITM Mack B 61 and fuel tanker
      By DRIPTROIT 71 · Posted
      That is a beautiful Mack Brian!
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  • Blog Entries

    • By Joris in Joris' Blog
         1
      A little progress on the Build-Off Pete. Not much, but haven't had much time to tinker around.
      I'd say the truck is on the home stretch here; mirror brackets are on, rear mudflaps and tail lights. The exhaust tips I have ready as well, just waiting before I have put some work behind me that could snap them off again. The hood is done and waiting as well, I just need to figure out the hinges since the resin aftermarket part isn't prepared for the kit's hinges. Also I fear that I might have mounted the cab a little too high (talking about halves of millimeters) so I need to set the hood just right. With all the effort on the C15, I try to make the hood functional.


      After that it's off to the upfitter, for the custom bumper and rear fenders. Mirrors will be the last items on, last decals will be the license plates.
    • By Casey in How-To
         6
      Disclaimer.  I am not professional and there is a possibility that I have no clue what I am doing.  I hope that I have put enough info together to give you a good I idea of the steps that I use to create single hump fenders.  If clarification is need, please let me know and I add info/edit as required.  Sorry for not taking a few more/better images.  Hope this helps! 

      1.  Begin by cutting a 1 15/16" round disk from a sheet of .040 sheet styrene.  I used a bow compass with metal points on both sided to get the job done.  If you use this method be sure to make the center hole the same size as the compass point; if it is larger you will not get a symmetrical disk.

      2.  Mount the disk on a Dremel cutting wheel attachment. (The image below shows two mounted but one is fine.)
       
      3.  Begin to round the outer edge of the disk using a rasp of other coarse file, sanding stick etc.

      4.  Fine tune the chamfer of the outer edge of the fender with a sanding block.  I used 220 grit sanding paper.

      5.  Finished disk on the right.

      6. Before performing this step make a mark that divides the disk into two equal halves.  Then cut the center out of the disk leaving a 5/8" circle and then cut the circle in two.  You will then have two "C" shaped pieces as seen in step 7.
      7.  Glue a .060 x.040 styrene strip (SS1) around the outer edge of the "C".  One of the .040 sides should be glued to the "C" and the strip should extend beyond the end of the "C".

      8.  Cut a hole with the same diameter as inner hole of the upper fender wall (UFW) above from a sheet od styrene and layout and cut the lower fender wall (LFW) as seen in the image below and the image in the next step.  (Sorry for not taking better pics of this part)

       9.  Glue the LFW to the UFW and SS1, and cut the ends off SS1 off at the lower edge of the LFW. 

      10.  Cut the lower portion of the LFW to achieve the desired fender height.

      11.  Glue a .030 x .250 strip (SS2) inside of SS1.

      12.  Make another side just like the one above.

      13.  Cut two strips of .020 styrene to the desired fender width (don't forget to account for the width od the sides) and long enough to wrap around the outside of the fender.

      14.  Beginning at one end, glue the first SS3 to SS2, wrapping it around the outer edge of the fender as you go. Be sure to keep the seam between SS3 and SS1 on each side as tight as possible. Cut the ends even with the lower ends of the fender side walls.


      15.  Wrap the second SS3 over the first SS3.  Again, keep the seam between SS3 and SS1 on each side as tight as possible and cut the ends even with the lower ends of the fender side walls.

      Construction complete!

      Fill and Prime

      Paint

      Repeat x4.
      If all this seems like too much work, you can purchase a resin set in the Parts Store. 

      --Casey
       
       
       
    • By Casey in MTB.com Admin Blog
         5
      I just wanted to make a quick note to say thank you to the admins at Model Truck Discussion, Model Truck Mafia, Building Big Rigs Tips and how did you do it and Model Trucks Other Than Pete or KW for allowing me advertise MTB.com  in their Facebook groups.  Thank you to those that have given me permission to post images of their builds in the gallery, to those who have added their own images and to those who have posted in the forums. Finally, thanks to all who have visited and/or registered.  I hope you find your way here often, contribute content when and where you can,  and most importantly, find the site useful and enjoyable.
      Please do not hesitate to let me know what I can do to make MTB.com better.
      --Casey
    • By Joris in Joris' Blog
         1
      The Build-Off Peterbilt is getting close to completion! I have the hood functional, the mirrors are on and I made a big bumper from styrene. All that's left is the fenders over the rear wheels; I'm still not sure about the definite style and way of attaching them, but I have some time left to figure that out. License plate decals and IFTA decals are last. The stack tips are in place as well, but I'm not really sure If that was smart. I might have to work on the underside of the truck a little for that. Oh well...


    • By Casey in How-To
         2
      I'm sure that I'm not the first one to do it this way but I was looking for an alternative way to stretch a frame versus  butting the ends of the cut frame rail sections against one another and lapping a strip of styrene over the joint.  Here's that alternative:

      At the Joint of the frame, remove the shaded portion of the frame rail ends as shown below.

      On one frame rail section, remove the center of the vertical portion of the rail leaving the horizontal portion intact (left). The length of the portion removed is not critical, 3/8" or so should work. 
      On the other frame rail section, remove the horizontal portion of the rail leaving the vertical portion intact (right).  The length of the portion removed should be the same as the length of the portion removed from the other frame rail section.  Note:  Do not remove the horizontal portion by sawing along the inner edge of the horizontal portion of the frame rail, you will remove too much material from the tab.  Carefully cut the horizontal portion out with an Exacto knife, etc.

      Connect the two sections like puzzle pieces and glue.  I use a straight edge (in this case my miter box) and a flat surface to align the sections and keep the rail straight while the glue dries.

      Once dry, you should have a strong, straight joint that requires very little filler and is more realistic than the lap joint method.

      Hope this helps,
      Casey
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