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  • Our picks

    • Peterbilt 358 twin stick 1100 cab
      This is an AMT 359 1100 cab kit with a Bill Drennen conversion. 8v-71 Detroit power with a Spicer 4x4 twin stick transmission.










      • 10 replies
    • 1948 Sterling HC 175
      The Reo has gone to the caster.  Here's what is next.  A nice compact Sterling to build into a heavy duty dump.  The West Coast version was modified by shortening the hood and changing the chrome trim to louvers.  The radiator was also modifiedl
      • 30 replies
    • Dodge L1000
      Here are a few pics of my latest build. Cab is from AITM, chassis is the AMT GMC cabover. 
      • 3 replies
    • 1950 Ford F4 Wrecker
      I was building this as filler for my Leach unit. Rear wrecker body and rear chassis is modified from the Encore Model Bedford break down truck. The front chassis and cab is a modified Monogram '50 Ford F1 cab and chassis. The Bedford front axle was modified to fit he Ford chassis. The cab fenders were re radiused and the fender bottoms lengthened to F4 design. wheels and tires are from the Bedford.  The kit boom is a licensed copy of a late 1940 Manley hand crank unit. The vintage Bang Bar is scratch build. Beacon light is aluminum tube and an Orange LED.  Up graded the engine to an early 1950's Desoto 354 Hemi.  Paint is Krylon and decals are parts box. Ford and F4 are Modelcar Garage Photo etch.  The headlights in the last photo are coated with thinned Tamiya Clear Smoke. I feel it makes the look more realistic with shadows and shiny areas.   Fun build.  Paul


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        • Like
      • 7 replies
    • Recent builds
      I figured rather than start a bunch of topics, I’d lump them all into one. Built these during my time off due to COVID-19.

        • Like
      • 11 replies
  • Latest Forum Posts
    • LNG Trailers
      By intruder500 · Posted
      Hi All:      Where do you guys find the tanks for pressurized cargo like LNG? Is this a scratch built thing or what? Thanks in advance... intruder500
    • Dodge D800 Dump
      By Brian Dutz · Posted
      That color looks great. Nice looking build. 
    • Moebius 53’ trailer
      By Brian Dutz · Posted
      Thank you. 
    • Moebius 53’ trailer
      By Brian Dutz · Posted
      That’s straight out of the kit. Once I applied the decals, I covered with a coat of Future. 
    • Dodge D800 Dump
      By vincen47 · Posted
      A nice no-nonsense look. Strictly business. 
    • Moebius 53’ trailer
      By vincen47 · Posted
      Another great combo. I like the simple fleet look that’s so commonly seen on the road, but not as often on the hobby bench. I missed this posting last year, glad to see it.
    • Prostar
      By vincen47 · Posted
      Nice Prostar, you don’t see these built often. I don’t know how this one slipped by me last year, so I’m glad to see it now.
    • Dodge D800 Dump
      By DRIPTROIT 71 · Posted
      Back to working on this one. A little progress.
    • Moebius 53’ trailer
      By intruder500 · Posted
      Brian:      What did you use to do the rear doors of the trailer? Looks awesome!   intruder500
    • Prostar
      By intruder500 · Posted
      WOW!      Just freakin WOW! What a great build! I have built eight trucks and trailers so far. Four Volvos, 3 780's and one 670. I really love your interior work. Nice color contrasts, looks like you could get in and drive off! I am kind of timid about showing my work in here. You guys have some real killer stuff! I have built aircraft for a bazillion years and can quote you armament loads, camo colors and Federal standard numbers. When it comes to these things? I am so lost! I have been looking at manufacturers sites for paint refs and some interior ideas but even the high gloss finishes scare the crap out of me. One step at a time I guess. Again great work, keep it coming!   intruder500
  • Scale Converter (in, cm, mm)
  • Blog Entries

    • By Gary Austin in How-To
      Does anyone know how to fabricate or have any Idea on how to make a Texas style bumper? Thank you 
    • By Joris in Joris' Blog
      A little progress on the Build-Off Pete. Not much, but haven't had much time to tinker around.
      I'd say the truck is on the home stretch here; mirror brackets are on, rear mudflaps and tail lights. The exhaust tips I have ready as well, just waiting before I have put some work behind me that could snap them off again. The hood is done and waiting as well, I just need to figure out the hinges since the resin aftermarket part isn't prepared for the kit's hinges. Also I fear that I might have mounted the cab a little too high (talking about halves of millimeters) so I need to set the hood just right. With all the effort on the C15, I try to make the hood functional.

      After that it's off to the upfitter, for the custom bumper and rear fenders. Mirrors will be the last items on, last decals will be the license plates.
    • By Casey in How-To
      Disclaimer.  I am not professional and there is a possibility that I have no clue what I am doing.  I hope that I have put enough info together to give you a good I idea of the steps that I use to create single hump fenders.  If clarification is need, please let me know and I add info/edit as required.  Sorry for not taking a few more/better images.  Hope this helps! 

      1.  Begin by cutting a 1 15/16" round disk from a sheet of .040 sheet styrene.  I used a bow compass with metal points on both sided to get the job done.  If you use this method be sure to make the center hole the same size as the compass point; if it is larger you will not get a symmetrical disk.

      2.  Mount the disk on a Dremel cutting wheel attachment. (The image below shows two mounted but one is fine.)
      3.  Begin to round the outer edge of the disk using a rasp of other coarse file, sanding stick etc.

      4.  Fine tune the chamfer of the outer edge of the fender with a sanding block.  I used 220 grit sanding paper.

      5.  Finished disk on the right.

      6. Before performing this step make a mark that divides the disk into two equal halves.  Then cut the center out of the disk leaving a 5/8" circle and then cut the circle in two.  You will then have two "C" shaped pieces as seen in step 7.
      7.  Glue a .060 x.040 styrene strip (SS1) around the outer edge of the "C".  One of the .040 sides should be glued to the "C" and the strip should extend beyond the end of the "C".

      8.  Cut a hole with the same diameter as inner hole of the upper fender wall (UFW) above from a sheet od styrene and layout and cut the lower fender wall (LFW) as seen in the image below and the image in the next step.  (Sorry for not taking better pics of this part)

       9.  Glue the LFW to the UFW and SS1, and cut the ends off SS1 off at the lower edge of the LFW. 

      10.  Cut the lower portion of the LFW to achieve the desired fender height.

      11.  Glue a .030 x .250 strip (SS2) inside of SS1.

      12.  Make another side just like the one above.

      13.  Cut two strips of .020 styrene to the desired fender width (don't forget to account for the width od the sides) and long enough to wrap around the outside of the fender.

      14.  Beginning at one end, glue the first SS3 to SS2, wrapping it around the outer edge of the fender as you go. Be sure to keep the seam between SS3 and SS1 on each side as tight as possible. Cut the ends even with the lower ends of the fender side walls.

      15.  Wrap the second SS3 over the first SS3.  Again, keep the seam between SS3 and SS1 on each side as tight as possible and cut the ends even with the lower ends of the fender side walls.

      Construction complete!

      Fill and Prime


      Repeat x4.
      If all this seems like too much work, you can purchase a resin set in the Parts Store. 

    • By Casey in MTB.com Admin Blog
      I just wanted to make a quick note to say thank you to the admins at Model Truck Discussion, Model Truck Mafia, Building Big Rigs Tips and how did you do it and Model Trucks Other Than Pete or KW for allowing me advertise MTB.com  in their Facebook groups.  Thank you to those that have given me permission to post images of their builds in the gallery, to those who have added their own images and to those who have posted in the forums. Finally, thanks to all who have visited and/or registered.  I hope you find your way here often, contribute content when and where you can,  and most importantly, find the site useful and enjoyable.
      Please do not hesitate to let me know what I can do to make MTB.com better.