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  • Our picks

    • Peterbilt 358 twin stick 1100 cab
      This is an AMT 359 1100 cab kit with a Bill Drennen conversion. 8v-71 Detroit power with a Spicer 4x4 twin stick transmission.


       


       


       


       


       


       


       


       


       


       
      • 10 replies
    • 1948 Sterling HC 175
      The Reo has gone to the caster.  Here's what is next.  A nice compact Sterling to build into a heavy duty dump.  The West Coast version was modified by shortening the hood and changing the chrome trim to louvers.  The radiator was also modifiedl
      • 30 replies
    • Dodge L1000
      Here are a few pics of my latest build. Cab is from AITM, chassis is the AMT GMC cabover. 
      • 3 replies
    • 1950 Ford F4 Wrecker
      I was building this as filler for my Leach unit. Rear wrecker body and rear chassis is modified from the Encore Model Bedford break down truck. The front chassis and cab is a modified Monogram '50 Ford F1 cab and chassis. The Bedford front axle was modified to fit he Ford chassis. The cab fenders were re radiused and the fender bottoms lengthened to F4 design. wheels and tires are from the Bedford.  The kit boom is a licensed copy of a late 1940 Manley hand crank unit. The vintage Bang Bar is scratch build. Beacon light is aluminum tube and an Orange LED.  Up graded the engine to an early 1950's Desoto 354 Hemi.  Paint is Krylon and decals are parts box. Ford and F4 are Modelcar Garage Photo etch.  The headlights in the last photo are coated with thinned Tamiya Clear Smoke. I feel it makes the look more realistic with shadows and shiny areas.   Fun build.  Paul

       

      Hosted on Fotki

      Hosted on Fotki

      Hosted on Fotki

      Hosted on Fotki

      Hosted on Fotki

      Hosted on Fotki

      Hosted on Fotki

      Hosted on Fotki

       

       
        • Like
      • 6 replies
    • Recent builds
      I figured rather than start a bunch of topics, I’d lump them all into one. Built these during my time off due to COVID-19.

       
        • Like
      • 8 replies
  • Latest Forum Posts
    • Engine Type and model in AMT Ford LNT-8000 Snow Plow 1/25 Scale Plastic Model Kit
      By Helsinki Cowboy · Posted
      Driptroit 71, Thank you for your reply. So I wasn't that far off with the Cat 3208. Thank you for the history on this engine.
    • Engine Type and model in AMT Ford LNT-8000 Snow Plow 1/25 Scale Plastic Model Kit
      By DRIPTROIT 71 · Posted
      These were the predecessor to the 3208. They were the 1100 Cat series. They were made by Cat for Ford. They were designated the Ford V150 (Cat1140), Ford V175 (Cat 1145), Ford V200 (Cat 1150) and Ford V225 (Cat 1160). These can easily be modified into a 3208 by removing the logo from the valve covers and changing the injection pump from an in-line style to a v-style.
    • Engine Type and model in AMT Ford LNT-8000 Snow Plow 1/25 Scale Plastic Model Kit
      By Helsinki Cowboy · Posted
      I would like to know what engine is in the AMT1178 - Ford LNT-8000 Snow Plow 1/25 Scale Plastic Model Kit . I do believe that it is a Caterpillar but I'm not sure what the model number of the engine is. My guess is that it is a Caterpillar 3208. Could someone confirm this guess or inform me of what engine it is. Thank you Bruce
    • 1st converson: AIMTrk Sterling onto AMT AutoCar, tips?
      By Dennis · Posted
      Thank you.  Now that you've described it more, I might even have some here.  
    • 1st converson: AIMTrk Sterling onto AMT AutoCar, tips?
      By Chariots of Fire · Posted
      5 minute epoxy is mixed 1:1 parts A and B.  Best thing about it is that it does not set up immediately but allows for location adjustment.  Secures to just about any surface including resin.   Can be found in small packages at hardware stores and big box stores.  It will move so parts to be secured should be set flat or otherwise held in position until the epoxy is fully cured.
    • 1st converson: AIMTrk Sterling onto AMT AutoCar, tips?
      By Dennis · Posted
      I've been assembling some high quality resin model railroad cars with good success using Zap-a-Gap super glue.  Never used 5 minute epoxy.  Have no idea what exact product to get, but will try it.  Specifics?  
    • 1st converson: AIMTrk Sterling onto AMT AutoCar, tips?
      By NAVY · Posted
      I would check the width of the front axle vs the Sterlings fenders. You might have to narrow (or add to)  the axle to get the proper distance.  Make sure you cement the cab, fenders, and other resin with a good 5 minute epoxy to the styrene frame.  I have been using a JB weld product with very good success. Super glue although good for small resin pcs is not to good for the heavier resin castings like tanks, tool boxes, wheels and cabs.  Please post the picks ! That Sterling is a great looking truck. 
    • Pierce Enforcer
      By vincen47 · Posted
      Either way, you’ve got some great looking builds. Museum-quality.
    • Pierce Enforcer
      By Chariots of Fire · Posted
      HI, Vince.  Saw your post on MCM forum.  Sorry to say the number of modern pieces I have is quite small.  And most of them go back to the 80's and 90's.  This is the first real modern rig I have done in some time.
    • Pierce Enforcer
      By vincen47 · Posted
      So the pump panel we see here is just a stand-in? Looks nice, regardless. Nice progress. I’m looking forward to seeing it fully outfitted.
  • Scale Converter (in, cm, mm)
     
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  • Blog Entries

    • By Joris in Joris' Blog
         1
      A little progress on the Build-Off Pete. Not much, but haven't had much time to tinker around.
      I'd say the truck is on the home stretch here; mirror brackets are on, rear mudflaps and tail lights. The exhaust tips I have ready as well, just waiting before I have put some work behind me that could snap them off again. The hood is done and waiting as well, I just need to figure out the hinges since the resin aftermarket part isn't prepared for the kit's hinges. Also I fear that I might have mounted the cab a little too high (talking about halves of millimeters) so I need to set the hood just right. With all the effort on the C15, I try to make the hood functional.


      After that it's off to the upfitter, for the custom bumper and rear fenders. Mirrors will be the last items on, last decals will be the license plates.
    • By Casey in How-To
         6
      Disclaimer.  I am not professional and there is a possibility that I have no clue what I am doing.  I hope that I have put enough info together to give you a good I idea of the steps that I use to create single hump fenders.  If clarification is need, please let me know and I add info/edit as required.  Sorry for not taking a few more/better images.  Hope this helps! 

      1.  Begin by cutting a 1 15/16" round disk from a sheet of .040 sheet styrene.  I used a bow compass with metal points on both sided to get the job done.  If you use this method be sure to make the center hole the same size as the compass point; if it is larger you will not get a symmetrical disk.

      2.  Mount the disk on a Dremel cutting wheel attachment. (The image below shows two mounted but one is fine.)
       
      3.  Begin to round the outer edge of the disk using a rasp of other coarse file, sanding stick etc.

      4.  Fine tune the chamfer of the outer edge of the fender with a sanding block.  I used 220 grit sanding paper.

      5.  Finished disk on the right.

      6. Before performing this step make a mark that divides the disk into two equal halves.  Then cut the center out of the disk leaving a 5/8" circle and then cut the circle in two.  You will then have two "C" shaped pieces as seen in step 7.
      7.  Glue a .060 x.040 styrene strip (SS1) around the outer edge of the "C".  One of the .040 sides should be glued to the "C" and the strip should extend beyond the end of the "C".

      8.  Cut a hole with the same diameter as inner hole of the upper fender wall (UFW) above from a sheet od styrene and layout and cut the lower fender wall (LFW) as seen in the image below and the image in the next step.  (Sorry for not taking better pics of this part)

       9.  Glue the LFW to the UFW and SS1, and cut the ends off SS1 off at the lower edge of the LFW. 

      10.  Cut the lower portion of the LFW to achieve the desired fender height.

      11.  Glue a .030 x .250 strip (SS2) inside of SS1.

      12.  Make another side just like the one above.

      13.  Cut two strips of .020 styrene to the desired fender width (don't forget to account for the width od the sides) and long enough to wrap around the outside of the fender.

      14.  Beginning at one end, glue the first SS3 to SS2, wrapping it around the outer edge of the fender as you go. Be sure to keep the seam between SS3 and SS1 on each side as tight as possible. Cut the ends even with the lower ends of the fender side walls.


      15.  Wrap the second SS3 over the first SS3.  Again, keep the seam between SS3 and SS1 on each side as tight as possible and cut the ends even with the lower ends of the fender side walls.

      Construction complete!

      Fill and Prime

      Paint

      Repeat x4.
      If all this seems like too much work, you can purchase a resin set in the Parts Store. 

      --Casey
       
       
       
    • By Casey in MTB.com Admin Blog
         5
      I just wanted to make a quick note to say thank you to the admins at Model Truck Discussion, Model Truck Mafia, Building Big Rigs Tips and how did you do it and Model Trucks Other Than Pete or KW for allowing me advertise MTB.com  in their Facebook groups.  Thank you to those that have given me permission to post images of their builds in the gallery, to those who have added their own images and to those who have posted in the forums. Finally, thanks to all who have visited and/or registered.  I hope you find your way here often, contribute content when and where you can,  and most importantly, find the site useful and enjoyable.
      Please do not hesitate to let me know what I can do to make MTB.com better.
      --Casey
    • By Joris in Joris' Blog
         1
      The Build-Off Peterbilt is getting close to completion! I have the hood functional, the mirrors are on and I made a big bumper from styrene. All that's left is the fenders over the rear wheels; I'm still not sure about the definite style and way of attaching them, but I have some time left to figure that out. License plate decals and IFTA decals are last. The stack tips are in place as well, but I'm not really sure If that was smart. I might have to work on the underside of the truck a little for that. Oh well...


    • By Casey in How-To
         2
      I'm sure that I'm not the first one to do it this way but I was looking for an alternative way to stretch a frame versus  butting the ends of the cut frame rail sections against one another and lapping a strip of styrene over the joint.  Here's that alternative:

      At the Joint of the frame, remove the shaded portion of the frame rail ends as shown below.

      On one frame rail section, remove the center of the vertical portion of the rail leaving the horizontal portion intact (left). The length of the portion removed is not critical, 3/8" or so should work. 
      On the other frame rail section, remove the horizontal portion of the rail leaving the vertical portion intact (right).  The length of the portion removed should be the same as the length of the portion removed from the other frame rail section.  Note:  Do not remove the horizontal portion by sawing along the inner edge of the horizontal portion of the frame rail, you will remove too much material from the tab.  Carefully cut the horizontal portion out with an Exacto knife, etc.

      Connect the two sections like puzzle pieces and glue.  I use a straight edge (in this case my miter box) and a flat surface to align the sections and keep the rail straight while the glue dries.

      Once dry, you should have a strong, straight joint that requires very little filler and is more realistic than the lap joint method.

      Hope this helps,
      Casey
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