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finis ...

IMO, whatever method or material is used, it needs to be easy and easy to sand. For small gaps, I did not like using filler putty. As illustrated above: I sanded the seam on a large flat surface such as a piece of glass or MDF board. To protect as much detail as possible, I taped closely to the cab seam and filled in MrHobby-MrSurfacer 500 primer with a brush. Used as many coats as needed (it took a few). Dry completely. Initial sanding is before the tape is removed, then a careful final sanding. Use tape to protect details while sanding. Then primed with MrSurfacer 1000 or 1500 by air-brush or aerosol can. Since I have not applied a finish paint yet, I cannot be sure of the result. What I am more sure of, is that this is about the limit of effort I am willing to try. Learning from experience with AMT truck models, I have decided to pre-build this and future kits before final paint. Here is a list of found issues for the AMT White-Freightliner A1046-200 DD: 1a) move breather(21) and rocker arm cover(20) to rear of engine 1b) position alternator and belt (14 & 15) close to the oil cooler(7): it may cause interference later 1c) add .010 shim below to air cleaner (28) so that it rests level 2a) glue tires to wheels on final assembly 2b) Hubs seem shallow in final fit (shim out flush to brake drums). 3a) Radius rods(10) will interfere with tires. Install opposite of instruction. Sand to fit. 3b) relieve the front engine mount(4) so that engine sits level 3c) Front axle(8) and Tie Rod(7) too wide by 3/16 " (?) - trim 4) The clear amber & red cracks very easily. Use caution when removing and trimming. Running light lenses{10}(6) prone to breakage 5a) Drill the assembled rear wheels .062 for metal axle fit. 5b) Drill rear brake drum holes for fit. Note different brake chambers(2,1 & 4) for front/rear. Apply only one chamber to the backing plate so it will not interfere with the axle at assembly. 6a) Pre-drill #42 front wheels. Only 2 parking brake chambers (?) when instructions indicate 4. Clearance .092 drill brake drums(7) 6b) Install pitman arm(1) before installing the steering box(2) to the frame. 7a) Exhaust pipe(1) too short. Add 1/8" of 5/32 tube stock 7b) Shift mount(8) too far back 1/8". Part mounting point unclear. 7c) Fuel take (gas cap toward rear) on passenger side (instruction not clear). Other tank goes to driver's side (center gas cap) 7d) Radiator(4) mounting point unclear or aligned with engine fan{1}(18). Install by sight 7e) Lower radiator hose(32) 1/8" too long (trim). 8a) Sleeper wall(10) too far forward. Mount for clearance of seats 8b) Sand sides and back of interior extension(2) to fit, sand lightly front corners of assembled interior(8) 9a) Add 1/8 shims to cab rear panel(1) mounts to level cab when resting on the cab support brackets{3}(17) 9b) Remove the 2 rivets near the side window center pillars if using Photo Etch mirror bracket plates 10a) Cab Steps(3) improper fit. Fill gaps. 10b) Ladders(21) interference fit with front tires. Consider aftermarket parts. Instructions unclear on left side and right side ladders(21). Test fit. 10c) Test fit driving lights(17). May be too big for pockets. 10d) Add a .030 shim to the front bumper(19) inside frame mounting area for alignment with cab. 10e) Remove rivets from underneath the middle running lights bezel(7) As bad as this sounds, the kit does go together with nothing TOO major. I've seen worse. Build quality is an individual decision. Having fun modelling is the most important thing.

Alignment of the exhaust was difficult. I think they had to be shortened (horz.) and lengthened (vert.).

Adding grime to the cab using heavily diluted paint with a spray gun. My favorite look is "in use" and am trying to learn the art of "less is more". Booby trap !!! I have come to expect "issues". The interior tub had to be relieved severely to clear an interference fit with the air intake pipe (93). The shift plate (68) was also not cooperative. (too high, too long) Copper tubing was used to fill the gap between the exhaust (95,96) and mufflers.

Working hard toward the finish line.

Assembled and in primer.

It was much easier and quicker to use the PE part above than cutting out the grill detail on this cab. This experience will certainly make me think twice before trying to do a whole radiator. The third window is added to a short cab. PE window gaskets applied. Using a sanding sheet taped to a flat surface greatly improved the problematic cab seam.

I used the white number decals, didn't like them so added the black ones over the top to look like shadow lettering.

The frame gets some weathering. Added headlight bezels, which was a mistake to do so after paint. I tried to remove the orange peel on the cab with Tamiya compound paste. It is well hidden if the lighting and camera angle are right.

The boredom has worn off, and I am back on the bench. A new journey begins. Now beginning my 4th build, IMO I have realized the painting and detailing of the cab is the most critical part of the model. This will be an experiment. 5 kits will be built. Some of the mundane assembly and painting will be "production-lined" to save time with set-up and clean-up. I will try new things and test the limit of my skills. Failure is learning. One (or more) of the kits will probably be sacrificed and end up in the junkyard. I will try different paint schemes. It will also allow me to choose the "best of _____ part" for a showroom build. At the Cummins factory, holes are drilled for brass rod. It will be nice to not have to relearn every step. Some of these are from other kits with variations. "The Seem" First attempt at cutting out the doors was done with an X-Acto knife (an impossible task). The panel scriber worked much better (but still required an insane amount of patience - be prepared to take your time). A template of the floor is made for quick fabrication in the future. Pockets are fabricated for the new door handles. A thin piece of sheet is glued to support and guide an more natural curve on this PE part. The windshield wiper is carefully removed, I am getting lots of practice in manipulating the styrene.

I have "embraced" PE (photo-etch) and am learning to work with the new material. Every part is now a learning experience. The details are removed. The fuel tank steps and straps gave me lots of trouble with adhesion. Most glues do not work well, and the steps had to be soldered. A piece of bathroom tissue is used with Elmer's Glue mixed with water. I have also taken the leap into adding some plumbing and wiring to this build. Thin thread for electrical wire, .020" & .030" styrene rod for air lines, and telephone wire for the transmission. The interior sub-assembly is finished and set aside.

Up next is the Pete, and my mind is already three builds ahead. I miss scrapping styrene and sniffing glue (orange flavor) and need the space on the bench, so it is time to push this truck along. Some of the clean "before" photos. Bare bones. A view from the rear. It came as a surprise to me at how "perfect" it came together. Sure turned out pretty. Maybe too pretty. A perfect yellow rack and bunk doesn't seem possible (in my imagination) for a logging truck. Rust, chipped paint, and bare metal from wear was the effect I was aiming for. The fan (depth) wasn't fitting right, so I drilled a hole through the engine block and mounted it on a brass rod. Now it could be adjusted wherever for final assembly. Careful painting of the pulleys and belts also added a nice touch. The underside was turning out nicely, so it was time to stop. A view of the dash thru the back window. (120 ?,, I don't think so...ha!. kmh?) I forgot to add a driver, or any misc. debris to the interior. It was already glued in place and too late. Bought this product and it works fantastic. Will definitely be playing around with it in future. Used Vallejo Acrylic heavily watered down as a wash to add some grime and streaking to the rear of the cab. A sixty thousands (.060) shim was added between the axle and leaf spring on the driver's side to give the frame a bit of twist (torque). It is very subtle and you might not notice (only subconsciously, which is the best kind of affect). The mirror brackets are four pieces glued together and were very intimidating to build. We are nearing the finish line. I joke with my adult son on how AMT expected kids to build these kits.

The Rubicon has been crossed (can't go back). For better or worse....

Option #1 it is.