02fusoFG

Starting over with #2 Test fit. FrameFF

4 frames assembled. 1 shortened, 1 extended. Practicing with tape. In the paint booth. Decals did not cooperated. Change of plans. The striping will be attempted without the decals, which didn't even make it off the paper. Good enough. I can clean it up. Catastrophic failure. In a tank of Lacquer thinner it will go for a complete re-start. I really like the concept of #2.

finis ...

IMO, whatever method or material is used, it needs to be easy and easy to sand. For small gaps, I did not like using filler putty. As illustrated above: I sanded the seam on a large flat surface such as a piece of glass or MDF board. To protect as much detail as possible, I taped closely to the cab seam and filled in MrHobby-MrSurfacer 500 primer with a brush. Used as many coats as needed (it took a few). Dry completely. Initial sanding is before the tape is removed, then a careful final sanding. Use tape to protect details while sanding. Then primed with MrSurfacer 1000 or 1500 by air-brush or aerosol can. Since I have not applied a finish paint yet, I cannot be sure of the result. What I am more sure of, is that this is about the limit of effort I am willing to try. Learning from experience with AMT truck models, I have decided to pre-build this and future kits before final paint. Here is a list of found issues for the AMT White-Freightliner A1046-200 DD: 1a) move breather(21) and rocker arm cover(20) to rear of engine 1b) position alternator and belt (14 & 15) close to the oil cooler(7): it may cause interference later 1c) add .010 shim below to air cleaner (28) so that it rests level 2a) glue tires to wheels on final assembly 2b) Hubs seem shallow in final fit (shim out flush to brake drums). 3a) Radius rods(10) will interfere with tires. Install opposite of instruction. Sand to fit. 3b) relieve the front engine mount(4) so that engine sits level 3c) Front axle(8) and Tie Rod(7) too wide by 3/16 " (?) - trim 4) The clear amber & red cracks very easily. Use caution when removing and trimming. Running light lenses{10}(6) prone to breakage 5a) Drill the assembled rear wheels .062 for metal axle fit. 5b) Drill rear brake drum holes for fit. Note different brake chambers(2,1 & 4) for front/rear. Apply only one chamber to the backing plate so it will not interfere with the axle at assembly. 6a) Pre-drill #42 front wheels. Only 2 parking brake chambers (?) when instructions indicate 4. Clearance .092 drill brake drums(7) 6b) Install pitman arm(1) before installing the steering box(2) to the frame. 7a) Exhaust pipe(1) too short. Add 1/8" of 5/32 tube stock 7b) Shift mount(8) too far back 1/8". Part mounting point unclear. 7c) Fuel take (gas cap toward rear) on passenger side (instruction not clear). Other tank goes to driver's side (center gas cap) 7d) Radiator(4) mounting point unclear or aligned with engine fan{1}(18). Install by sight 7e) Lower radiator hose(32) 1/8" too long (trim). 8a) Sleeper wall(10) too far forward. Mount for clearance of seats 8b) Sand sides and back of interior extension(2) to fit, sand lightly front corners of assembled interior(8) 9a) Add 1/8 shims to cab rear panel(1) mounts to level cab when resting on the cab support brackets{3}(17) 9b) Remove the 2 rivets near the side window center pillars if using Photo Etch mirror bracket plates 10a) Cab Steps(3) improper fit. Fill gaps. 10b) Ladders(21) interference fit with front tires. Consider aftermarket parts. Instructions unclear on left side and right side ladders(21). Test fit. 10c) Test fit driving lights(17). May be too big for pockets. 10d) Add a .030 shim to the front bumper(19) inside frame mounting area for alignment with cab. 10e) Remove rivets from underneath the middle running lights bezel(7) As bad as this sounds, the kit does go together with nothing TOO major. I've seen worse. Build quality is an individual decision. Having fun modelling is the most important thing.

Alignment of the exhaust was difficult. I think they had to be shortened (horz.) and lengthened (vert.).

Adding grime to the cab using heavily diluted paint with a spray gun. My favorite look is "in use" and am trying to learn the art of "less is more". Booby trap !!! I have come to expect "issues". The interior tub had to be relieved severely to clear an interference fit with the air intake pipe (93). The shift plate (68) was also not cooperative. (too high, too long) Copper tubing was used to fill the gap between the exhaust (95,96) and mufflers.

Working hard toward the finish line.

Assembled and in primer.

It was much easier and quicker to use the PE part above than cutting out the grill detail on this cab. This experience will certainly make me think twice before trying to do a whole radiator. The third window is added to a short cab. PE window gaskets applied. Using a sanding sheet taped to a flat surface greatly improved the problematic cab seam.

I used the white number decals, didn't like them so added the black ones over the top to look like shadow lettering.

The frame gets some weathering. Added headlight bezels, which was a mistake to do so after paint. I tried to remove the orange peel on the cab with Tamiya compound paste. It is well hidden if the lighting and camera angle are right.