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The boredom has worn off, and I am back on the bench. A new journey begins. Now beginning my 4th build, IMO I have realized the painting and detailing of the cab is the most critical part of the model. This will be an experiment. 5 kits will be built. Some of the mundane assembly and painting will be "production-lined" to save time with set-up and clean-up. I will try new things and test the limit of my skills. Failure is learning. One (or more) of the kits will probably be sacrificed and end up in the junkyard. I will try different paint schemes. It will also allow me to choose the "best of _____ part" for a showroom build. At the Cummins factory, holes are drilled for brass rod. It will be nice to not have to relearn every step. Some of these are from other kits with variations. "The Seem" First attempt at cutting out the doors was done with an X-Acto knife (an impossible task). The panel scriber worked much better (but still required an insane amount of patience - be prepared to take your time). A template of the floor is made for quick fabrication in the future. Pockets are fabricated for the new door handles. A thin piece of sheet is glued to support and guide an more natural curve on this PE part. The windshield wiper is carefully removed, I am getting lots of practice in manipulating the styrene.

4 frames assembled. 1 shortened, 1 extended. Practicing with tape. In the paint booth. Decals did not cooperated. Change of plans. The striping will be attempted without the decals, which didn't even make it off the paper. Good enough. I can clean it up. Catastrophic failure. In a tank of Lacquer thinner it will go for a complete re-start. I really like the concept of #2.

Sometimes you got to set aside a project and let it stew. ....So, what do you do? Start another truck. First up, the front axle and tie rod are pinned with small nails. Next, working to develop a concept for the build. On the paint board are several photos from the internet printed on glossy paper. Old trucker movies are also a good source of inspiration for those who want to capture the original colors of "their time". "Blue" on the right is giving me trouble finding the right color match. I will have to try custom mixing, but don't have any experience or feel for it. My first attempts have been unsuccessful. None of the box decals are ideal, so I will have to buy custom made ones or learn to make my own. Does anybody have a good source? Up next is the paint trial. I don't want to risk ruining the cab. A template of styrene sheet was made to mask the body and try my hand at pinstripes. 3 copies initially are made so that I can play with the technique and the finish coat sheen. A set of machinists radius gauges comes in handy.

finis ...

IMO, whatever method or material is used, it needs to be easy and easy to sand. For small gaps, I did not like using filler putty. As illustrated above: I sanded the seam on a large flat surface such as a piece of glass or MDF board. To protect as much detail as possible, I taped closely to the cab seam and filled in MrHobby-MrSurfacer 500 primer with a brush. Used as many coats as needed (it took a few). Dry completely. Initial sanding is before the tape is removed, then a careful final sanding. Use tape to protect details while sanding. Then primed with MrSurfacer 1000 or 1500 by air-brush or aerosol can. Since I have not applied a finish paint yet, I cannot be sure of the result. What I am more sure of, is that this is about the limit of effort I am willing to try. Learning from experience with AMT truck models, I have decided to pre-build this and future kits before final paint. Here is a list of found issues for the AMT White-Freightliner A1046-200 DD: 1a) move breather(21) and rocker arm cover(20) to rear of engine 1b) position alternator and belt (14 & 15) close to the oil cooler(7): it may cause interference later 1c) add .010 shim below to air cleaner (28) so that it rests level 2a) glue tires to wheels on final assembly 2b) Hubs seem shallow in final fit (shim out flush to brake drums). 3a) Radius rods(10) will interfere with tires. Install opposite of instruction. Sand to fit. 3b) relieve the front engine mount(4) so that engine sits level 3c) Front axle(8) and Tie Rod(7) too wide by 3/16 " (?) - trim 4) The clear amber & red cracks very easily. Use caution when removing and trimming. Running light lenses{10}(6) prone to breakage 5a) Drill the assembled rear wheels .062 for metal axle fit. 5b) Drill rear brake drum holes for fit. Note different brake chambers(2,1 & 4) for front/rear. Apply only one chamber to the backing plate so it will not interfere with the axle at assembly. 6a) Pre-drill #42 front wheels. Only 2 parking brake chambers (?) when instructions indicate 4. Clearance .092 drill brake drums(7) 6b) Install pitman arm(1) before installing the steering box(2) to the frame. 7a) Exhaust pipe(1) too short. Add 1/8" of 5/32 tube stock 7b) Shift mount(8) too far back 1/8". Part mounting point unclear. 7c) Fuel take (gas cap toward rear) on passenger side (instruction not clear). Other tank goes to driver's side (center gas cap) 7d) Radiator(4) mounting point unclear or aligned with engine fan{1}(18). Install by sight 7e) Lower radiator hose(32) 1/8" too long (trim). 8a) Sleeper wall(10) too far forward. Mount for clearance of seats 8b) Sand sides and back of interior extension(2) to fit, sand lightly front corners of assembled interior(8) 9a) Add 1/8 shims to cab rear panel(1) mounts to level cab when resting on the cab support brackets{3}(17) 9b) Remove the 2 rivets near the side window center pillars if using Photo Etch mirror bracket plates 10a) Cab Steps(3) improper fit. Fill gaps. 10b) Ladders(21) interference fit with front tires. Consider aftermarket parts. Instructions unclear on left side and right side ladders(21). Test fit. 10c) Test fit driving lights(17). May be too big for pockets. 10d) Add a .030 shim to the front bumper(19) inside frame mounting area for alignment with cab. 10e) Remove rivets from underneath the middle running lights bezel(7) As bad as this sounds, the kit does go together with nothing TOO major. I've seen worse. Build quality is an individual decision. Having fun modelling is the most important thing.

Alignment of the exhaust was difficult. I think they had to be shortened (horz.) and lengthened (vert.).

Adding grime to the cab using heavily diluted paint with a spray gun. My favorite look is "in use" and am trying to learn the art of "less is more". Booby trap !!! I have come to expect "issues". The interior tub had to be relieved severely to clear an interference fit with the air intake pipe (93). The shift plate (68) was also not cooperative. (too high, too long) Copper tubing was used to fill the gap between the exhaust (95,96) and mufflers.

Kit #2: My ambition is to build most of the AMT truck kits to get a feel for how to go from start to finish, learn the common techniques, and to also find which AMT kit will become my favorite. After I have a couple of builds under my belt, I hope to purchase several (3?) copies of the "chosen" subject and attempt some really advanced building. My hope is to throw some really great paint, like a Peterbilt with a 6-color color scheme, polished, piano hinges, full plumbing and wiring, lights, maybe smoke(?). It is ambitious. Time will tell. After test fitting the Diamond Reo, this will not be my chosen subject. The kit has several big fails. The hood and rear axles are poorly fitted. I have heard the "AMT Freightliner" also has major flaws ( I still want to build one). The wheels and tires are nice. I will keep this in mind as a future donor kit. Satisfied with attempted plumbing of the engine. The hardest part was doing the research. My son had mentioned that "getting the right color is everything". I didn't understand this at the time he said it, but do now. My "Cummins Yellow" is a 50:50 mix X-8 Lemon Yellow: XF-88 Dark Yellow2 plus X-20A thinner for the gun. Doing some visual comparison of the kit mud flaps vs. an aftermarket part from Sour Kraut Model Trucks. I'm going to use the aftermarkets because the kit mudguards are unusable with a tilting hood. https://www.sourkrautsmodeltrucks.net/ Began to question my color choice. But am not willing to start over. I don't like this kit enough to care. Will continue by "faith" that the decals along with some in-service weathering will rescue it. Dash and interior detail is "good enough" for under the over-thick glass canopy. Not satisfied with the kit exhaust stack. Might replace with an aftermarket and scratch-built brackets. Also suspect the AMT trailer tires are over-sized.

The theme of this build is a farm truck that is nearing the end of it's service life and is no longer loved by the hired help. It is spring and the ground is muddy. I am satisfied with how the wooden sliding door and the "rusted" exhaust turned out, especially because the techniques used were a "first time" experience for me. The hood decals were a disaster and broke instantly while trying to get them in place, so I ended up having to paint the body stripes.

Working hard toward the finish line.

Assembled and in primer.

It was much easier and quicker to use the PE part above than cutting out the grill detail on this cab. This experience will certainly make me think twice before trying to do a whole radiator. The third window is added to a short cab. PE window gaskets applied. Using a sanding sheet taped to a flat surface greatly improved the problematic cab seam.

I used the white number decals, didn't like them so added the black ones over the top to look like shadow lettering.

The frame gets some weathering. Added headlight bezels, which was a mistake to do so after paint. I tried to remove the orange peel on the cab with Tamiya compound paste. It is well hidden if the lighting and camera angle are right.

I have "embraced" PE (photo-etch) and am learning to work with the new material. Every part is now a learning experience. The details are removed. The fuel tank steps and straps gave me lots of trouble with adhesion. Most glues do not work well, and the steps had to be soldered. A piece of bathroom tissue is used with Elmer's Glue mixed with water. I have also taken the leap into adding some plumbing and wiring to this build. Thin thread for electrical wire, .020" & .030" styrene rod for air lines, and telephone wire for the transmission. The interior sub-assembly is finished and set aside.

Up next is the Pete, and my mind is already three builds ahead. I miss scrapping styrene and sniffing glue (orange flavor) and need the space on the bench, so it is time to push this truck along. Some of the clean "before" photos. Bare bones. A view from the rear. It came as a surprise to me at how "perfect" it came together. Sure turned out pretty. Maybe too pretty. A perfect yellow rack and bunk doesn't seem possible (in my imagination) for a logging truck. Rust, chipped paint, and bare metal from wear was the effect I was aiming for. The fan (depth) wasn't fitting right, so I drilled a hole through the engine block and mounted it on a brass rod. Now it could be adjusted wherever for final assembly. Careful painting of the pulleys and belts also added a nice touch. The underside was turning out nicely, so it was time to stop. A view of the dash thru the back window. (120 ?,, I don't think so...ha!. kmh?) I forgot to add a driver, or any misc. debris to the interior. It was already glued in place and too late. Bought this product and it works fantastic. Will definitely be playing around with it in future. Used Vallejo Acrylic heavily watered down as a wash to add some grime and streaking to the rear of the cab. A sixty thousands (.060) shim was added between the axle and leaf spring on the driver's side to give the frame a bit of twist (torque). It is very subtle and you might not notice (only subconsciously, which is the best kind of affect). The mirror brackets are four pieces glued together and were very intimidating to build. We are nearing the finish line. I joke with my adult son on how AMT expected kids to build these kits.

The Rubicon has been crossed (can't go back). For better or worse....

Option #1 it is.

Undecided.

It was my birthday yesterday and my son made this Wo-jack meme. Thought I would share it, if it gives anyone else a chuckle. 😄

The air lines were quite problematic because they are Super Glue resistant. I tried to make them more pliable with a hair-dryer. Holes were drilled into the trailer to simulate a hook-up. Going to call this one done and move to the "showroom". Might add a few pics once I've finished a backdrop.

This mini-vacuum is the best $20 you will ever spend. You can order it on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074SJLGXW?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details As you know, building a model is full of challenges and one of them is keeping parts and the work area clean. This little tool has just the right amount suction to gently remove the styrene dust and shavings that get everywhere. I cannot recommend it enough. It is always at my side.

When I snapped an axle while removing a tire, I decided they were not up to snuff. Holes were drilled and new brass rod was installed. Side by side comparison of tires. "Tip Top Shop" and "Weekend Wrenchin' " arrived by delivery. Replaced the exhaust stack with a photo etch and resin kit by Auslowe. Details for the front bumper. This is now Double P Logging Company truck #39. How the colors turned out is now easy to see. A few details lefts, and it will be done . The question is "do I leave it clean?" Is this the end, or the start?