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Here's the new floor installed on my sectioned Wilson flatbed. I went with the hardwood flooring because that's more like what they used back in the day and also to cover up the joint where I removed the 13 foot section from the original 53' trailer. Feel free to ignore what's left of the joint 'cuz we won't be able to see it after I get the trailer loaded. I think I'm gonna go with a load of steel tubes chained down without a tarp for now, I was planning on steel coils with tarps, but I'll have to work on that later in my spare time since I haven't been able to figure the tarps out yet. That's the tape I used to cover the floor. I got it from Amazon, and it works great. The tape is very thin and it conforms to the surface of whatever you stick it on, plus it's not peel and stick -- it just unrolls like duct tape. I haven't tried to age or weather it yet; I'll save that for another day. Johnny

Lookin' good! The air lines turned out just right with the dark colors. Love the random sliding strap cranks on the Reitnouer! Johnny

I built this model entirely from left over parts from my spare parts totes, with a lot of scratch building involved. Even the KW hood and body were left overs from a KW I scrounged for parts for other builds. The wrecker unit itself began life as an Italeri US wrecker kit featuring the Western Star. I modified it to include an extendable boom similar to the real-life Miller Industries Vulcan series of wreckers. The wrecker body itself came from the AMT race car hauler kit with some modifications.

I live in Wichita, Kansas and am just getting back to building after a 30 year away. I'm 78 years old and glad to get back into building.

WooHoo -- finally got a load! Finally got a load for my now 40' Wilson flatbed. I don't know what these things are -- some kind of coils on frames or platforms, maybe generators or something. I found them on another model, already tarped and chained, so I'm like "That'll work!". They came with these long black bungee cords with hooks, I guess to keep the tarps from moving around in the wind, so I shortened them and put them on there too. This is all in 1:64 btw. Johnny

Tarps can be easy to make using some 2 ply facial tissue with no imprint and some 50/50 white glue and water. Here are examples of what I did for two WC trucks of WW II. Tissue laid in place and "painted with white glue/water mix. Tissue rolled up and glued in place. Spray painted with Testors Olive Drab and then weathered. Similar rig but with a larger tarp to make. In place with an added piece over the drivers compartment. The straps are made of brown paper bag strips and brass wire. Again weathering was done using Tamiya chalks. The trick is to simply lay the tissue over what you want to cover and let gravity and the glue/water mix do its thing. After it dries you can shape it to fit the coils you are thinking about.

Welcome aboard! Looking forward to seeing some of your builds!

This one is pretty much done. I used plaster from Woodland Scenes for the concrete. This was my first experience experimenting with snow.

This is great I will be using this info for my builds , thanks

Here are a few pics of a current project. The AITM B61 is a beautiful kit. Working on the glass now. It’s been the hardest part of the build. Still have to touch up the stripes on the tanker. My honey-do list is growing now that it’s warm out so my time at the bench has been limited.

Thanks for the comments guys! Been moving slow on this one, not because of excellence, I'm just moving slow.😀 It is on its wheels and tires now.

I found these in my stockpile of magazines. Sections of Car Modeler and Scale Auto Enthusiast for the truck modeler. I saw a post here a few weeks ago about engine detailing and dug these out. They are from March 97-March 98.

Here is the link to my Fotki with every truck detailing article. A few maybe out of order. Paul https://public.fotki.com/ptcheshire/truck-detailing/

All finished.

Thanks, Casey. Here are a few build updates. Weathering is complete. Starting the track build and weathering. All of the track pin holes had to be drilled out. It took about 3 hours to build both sets of tracks.

A quick update. Letting the decals set for the rest of the day. Decals were fiddly as they were still brittle even after a clear coat. I have a couple places to touch up after they dry. The headlights were already broken and I have glued , broken, and re-glued these back on at least twice per side.

Thanks Doc yes I really need to get the old girl back in shape and going to shows. Here’s a couple pic of her

Sadly, no lift gate without major rebuilding of the AMT lift gate. As the photos show it it short and narrow to work. I guess it will go back in the parts boxes.

Got a bit more work done on the MP7 and the M Drive, some bits and a ton of bolts and the common rail injector feed. I also got the motor mounts made to test the fit under the cab interior tub. Than today I finished up the chassis and engine to put on some paint. That was a spur of the moment idea for paint so no photos until tomorrow when I get home from Nova Scotia. Paul

Chassis is coming along,with a 220" wheel base. I have the suspension on and need to finish some brackets, stiffening plating and add some Tiche bolts and rivets. Machined PVC down to the diameter I need for the fuel tanks and Uria tank. Made them slip fit into an other piece of PVC pipe which I will machine down the wall thickness to 3/64" than I'll use my micro saw to slice off 8 pieces to split for tank brackets. Last I started to rough up a MP7 Mack engine from an old R model block. Still need to cut off bell housing to make the "modern" style one and rough up a M-drive for it. I'll make it nice after all the major parts are fabbed up. The part I dread is the DPF and exhaust unit. Paul Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki Hosted on Fotki

In all the years I have been modeling I have tried many types of glue. The glue that has never let me down is Tamiya Cement. The glue is clean and it doesn't stink out the house like some other glues. I also find I don't use as much glue and one bottle lasts quite a few kit sets. When I have made mistakes with gluing parts the Tamiya has been very forgiving John

I use dollar store super glue and super glues fix all adhesive on a toothpick it's like rubber and doesn't discolor things and keeps things in place without having to hold etc works really good if careful. works great repairing leather too because it's flexible great stuff super cheap at a buck a tube and it's a big tube

The Original Super Glue (two in a package for a buck at Dollar General), usually the thin stuff (red cap) but occasionally I'll use the gel (green cap). I use good old white craft glue for things like clear lenses. I also live dangerously sometimes and use it on clear parts, if the glue surface isn't exposed, in which case I'll revert to the white glue. Yes, cyanoacrylate glue can "fog" clear and chrome parts, but usually a quick swipe or two with a polishing cloth or a thin, brushed on coat of Pledge Future floor polish (or whatever clear you prefer to use) will do away with that. I used to use two-part epoxy but never liked it- just too messy for me.

I usually have the Revell of Germany glue, with the needle. The needle is for pinpoint application. Also superglue for resin and metal parts, but that just depends on what's available (and cheap)...