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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/31/2022 in all areas

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    Just finished my Revell USA Peterbilt 359. Just need to locate the kit decal sheet in my stash to add all the oval decals. But calling her done. Probably my best model ever. I am very satisfied.
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    WoW ! Thanks for the great post. Love the unrestored old timers. Also, great day for a truck show! Johnny
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    Got a bit more done. Axles are set up and as of last nite the front axle has the steering knuckles done along with the steering arm and tie rod. Will post pix of the work. But here is where we are as of a couple of days ago. The "X" shaped pieces are the steering knuckles before being cut down to the proper length. The tubing is made so it can be inserted into the tubing that runs through the front axle. The wheels and wheel hubs have been made up and can be mounted with screws and small washers.
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    Wow! Never actually gave that much thought. But it is probably 95% scratch vs 5% kit or after-market. I always approach a project from the frame up just as a real builder might. The difference being that while the frame is done in one factory, the body parts are being stamped and assembled in another location. In this case it is much like building a house. Get the foundation true and square and the rest should follow along. Same thing with the frame and the location of mounting points, etc. But I don't have a separate cab or body factory so they will be done after the frame is built. There is a fair amount of study of photos and information such as is contained in the Walk Around book like you see in the photo. The questions to answer revolve around how a certain feature will be built and out of what materials. Right now I am working on the rear tandem setup. Up until yesterday I needed to know how the pivot was built and attached to the frame. I finally came across a maintenance manual that had photos of exactly what I was looking for and will use them to create the parts in brass. I also know where the mounting points will be on the frame because the parts are centered on the length of the wheel base. The front spring hangers are in place so I know where that center will be. From there it is just marking out the length of the wheel base on the frame and holding everything to it. I'll try and include some added information as the project moves along.
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    Thanks, Vincen47. It was fun having her teach me how to do this. She uses the word "Duh!" a lot in her answers to my questions. Duh! Johnny
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    Thanks for the info on the classic xl freightliner. And idk much about the model world just getting in it I'm working on 2nd truck. But if I can help in any way let me know
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    Northern lower NICE. Im stuck in lower south east.
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    Welcome welcome. Fellow Michigander here as well. Michiganders Unite! Lol.
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    Welcome aboard, I’m sure you’ll enjoy it. I’m a Michigander, too.
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    I’m guessing that CF liked them to cut down on battery cost, but I’m not sure. The main con is that once your air leaks down, you have to have an air hose to jump it off. I assume that is why they had the big tanks. There is a video on YouTube of an old CF truck that has the air tank for the starter where the passenger seat should be. It looks like a big water tank.
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    I saw a former spreader truck on line that had the bed removed. I liked the way it looked, so I built this to represent such a truck. It began with a Paystar logger kit. The tires, front axle and transfer case are Kit Form Services. The engine is a 6-71 Detroit from Gary Wallace.
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    This is great I will be using this info for my builds , thanks
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    A custom built wrecker body and heavy duty wheel lift. Used for tunnel and other low profile work.

    © David Chicoine

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