Brian Conn

The rear axle visibly looks good...its what you don't see necessarily that is the issue..allow me to explain. The AMT truck rear axle has a steel rod that is attached to the wheel assembly's. As you can see in the picture, the rod is much smaller than the center hole in the rear axle which can cause, depending on if a body is mounted, a clearance issue with the top of the tire and the underside of the body. As a rule of thumb, there needs to be no less than 5 mm. (5" in 1:1 scale) of clearance between the top of the tire and the underside of the body. More clearance is builders choice. Where this would not be an issue is with the C series tractor since it has a fifth wheel. WASTE NOT, WANT NOT I don't see common, ordinary things like most people, rather I see a potential, useful item to be used for scratch building....case in point. These are the guts out of a dried up click pen...the White piece is the perfect size to fit into the axle and also allow the steel rod to fit into. Its now a bushing of sorts that pretty much eliminates the slop in the rear axle and will add a small, bit more clearance between the top of the tire and underside of the body... aprox. 2 mm.. This is not a drill bit , but rather a reamer. Ream the axle holes large enough so that the White piece fits into the axle snugly. I found that I only needed to ream a small bit on each side of the axle for the pen piece to properly fit. Fit the piece into the axle and cut off the excess. Insert the steel rod, attach the wheels and you done. You can do the same thing with an Evergreen tube...unsure of the number or dimensions as I don't have any on hand at this time.

As I am finding out with my first truck build, an AMT Ford C series cab over, that AMT trucks leave some to be desired as far as parts fitment and related issues as I have read here and elsewhere on the internet. If you have built an AMT big truck with out any fitment issues, congratulations your one of the few, as for the rest of us...... I am going to break this up into parts, hopefully making it easier. PART 1: Squaring the frame The frame is the foundation from which a truck is build, much the same way a sturdy foundation is from which a building is built. Since the frames consist of two separate side rails and numerous cross members is up to the builder to take the time and make sure that the frame is square, if not then pretty much everything will not be in proper alignment from that point forward and make for a frustrating building experience. Everyone has their different ways as far as holding the frame sections in place while their being attached...if it works for you use it....personally I use a flat,steel building plate and magnets along with modeling clay. Use only the two side rails/frame pieces and the front most and rear most cross members. Use the rear cross member that goes between the frame rails and not the cross member that attaches to the body frame (above the truck frame) as in the trash truck, city delivery/Coke, stake truck. Locate a point on your frame that you can use as a reference..in this case I use the rear most locator pin on the frame that is used to locate the trash truck packer box to the frame. There is another one on the opposite frame rail same location. On the front I used the center hole on the frame half of the cab pivot/hinge. It's important that you do a diagonal measurement as pictured, it needs to be an equal length on both sides Once you are satisfied that the frame is square and true, attach the all cross members except for the transmission cross member/mount and cab support despite what the instructions may show. You will locate and attach those while doing the engine and cab alignment.

So here we go..... my first truck build W.I.P I started with the engine first in an attempt to fallow the kit build directions in order. I soon discovered an issue with the fitment between the bottom of the heads and the intake/engine block. Note the notched?? area between the bottom of the head and engine block and intake manifold. I don't know the reason for this, I just know that this is not the way it looks in 1:1 scale. Filled in the area with Styrene strip and Bondo Here's where I am at presently with the engine....aftermarket distributor and plug wires, scratch built fuel line,governor linkage to carb, water pipe from intake manifold to surge tank (surge tank not pictured) and riser for the oil breather on the Right side and ignition coil....started some slight weathering...I have not applied any dull coat yet , nor any wash. I had to slightly modify the bottom of the heat riser to properly clear the spark plug boots. Got the Ford C photo etch for this build which will really enhance the cab. Just for shucks and grins I compared the 534 C/I Ford truck engine against one of my 1:25 Fat Block Ford 427's and a big block Ford 460....this truck engine even makes them look small and puny.

....One last update for 2025.... Have the hopper done and ready for weathering Began some subtle weathering on the upper panel Will be scratch building the control handle for the over head winch that ties in with the controls for the upper and lower panels HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL AND KEEP ON TRUCKIN'

Thanks for the response!!!! I have had too much outside the hobby room drama going on to maintain the focus and concentration needed...should have knocked this one out a long time ago....so I keep on keepin' on.

"Started back in September with basic drawings and photos." This build would be in the scratch building category....I doubt you will get a response from the builder as he has not been around since 2023...... I might add that the Trumpeter American La France Eagle pumper kit would be the donor kit..... other possibility would be a 3-D printed piece if you got the disposable income as that would be rather pricey.

Nothing SPOOKtacular to report on this Halloween day........ Inching closer to completion, still a ways to go.....had hoped to have had it in the model clubs annual show coming up in a couple of weeks, looks like next year. Since the P.E kit that I got from S.T.S came with a radio face, I went all in and scratch built an antennae to go with the radio. Still need to dirty up the front of the cab a little bit as the dirty windshield-clean body look wont pass muster with the judges. Scratch built the hydraulic lines for the front of the packer body, also the electrical conduit for the rear of the packer body (vertical round white piece, Left of center going down into truck chassis) Overhead electrical and hydraulic line raceway going towards the rear of the packer body.

...I figured one of the Diamond Reo aficionados would have chimed in by now... Take a look at the 1960's era Diamond Reo Gold Comets, I think you will find what your looking for

...Finally got enough work done on the packer body worthy of posting.... Got the under body control valve assembly plumbed. Used 24 gauge floral wire for the hydraulic lines. I've began some subtle weathering in spots and taped off the areas that need to stay white. All the packer bodies coming off of the Garwood assembly line were painted white, which makes things a lot easier as far as a build goes. Electrical conduit for rear lights on the hopper...located between the hydraulic lines and the under body control valve assembly.....flexible section to be tied in to the trucks electrical system later. Since I am going to be displaying this with the packer body roof off at shows, I added a support rib at the rear of the body to support the race way for the rubber hydraulic lines (3) and the metal electrical conduit. The electrical conduit line is already attached.

Thanks Gary...wish I had more time in the hobby room to devote to this project, but it is what it is. I think I might have enough for another update post soon

...Impressive build. I've got a wrecker in the pipe line, getting all the parts and pieces rounded up. Bought an early 60's I.H DCO 405 Emeryville resin cab before the prices went insanely high from Spaulding trading a couple of years ago, Picked up a 3-D print Holmes 750 minus body a year or so ago and picked up a derelict Transtar cab over for $20.00 at a model show a couple years ago that will donate its chassis....building a 1:1 wrecker that I remember as a kid growing up.

YIKES...it's hasn't been since last year since I posted anything......... Tried some 1 mm. Yellow pin striping tape that failed miserably..so with a steady hand and a Sable hair detail brush I have started pin striping the cab....fair results, will work for a weathered garbage truck. Started working on the packer body. Coming out of Garwood's assembly plant, the bodies where all White, so I am going to leave the portion of the body that doesn't get weathered the molded kit White...it's not too dull or too bright. Hydraulic oil tank assembly This shows the interior of the packer body as far as what see's the wear and metal to metal contact and what doesn't. Made a small lip out of styrene sheet to cover up the extreme rear portion of the truck frame to keep trash out

☹️ Word on the road today is that the Kenworth W900 will cease production in 2026.......

When I found out it was kind of surreal.....I still had a couple hours of windshield time before I made it home yesterday from S. E Nebraska ....quite a few trucks pulling grain trailers and started noticing the W900's . Saw where a 30 year old W900 can still fetch $60,000 , wonder how many of today's trucks will be able to do the same 30 years from now?

To determine how much to add to the frame..... Dry fit (no glue) the 359 body (hood, cab sleeper) on the 359 frame. Take one of the sides of the wrecker bed and place it behind the sleeper to give you an idea of how much to add if your not ready to start cutting on the frame....OR (preferred) go ahead and make your cut on the frame, then support the front portion of the frame (making it level) with the hood, cab and sleeper in place and then center the tandems in the wrecker bed wheel wells once you have determined where you want the wrecker bed to sit. The gap between the 2 frame halves is what you will need to add. Another possibility would be to cut the frame directly behind the sleeper on the 359 and directly in front of the wrecker bed on the other and connect the two frames. Since your dealing with 2 different kit manufacturers, this would not be a highly visible area

Took advantage of the unseasonably warm temperatures and decent humidity outside today and shot some color on the cab....still have a small bit of tape to clean up (door handles,wind shield wipers, script on the doors, etc. etc.) Still working on the packer body.....so far so good.

I got some more work done on the packer body interior. Filled in the open areas on what is the 1:1 scale hydraulic oil tank with styrene sheet. Did some subtle weathering. For what ever reason there is a notch on both upper corners of the kit ejector blade. I filled in the upper Right notch with a piece of styrene sheet. Filled in the interior wall (Left piece} with styrene strips and automotive glazing and spot putty. Will leave the sanding scratch marks in place on the rear 2/3rd's for metal to metal contact effect.

A couple days ago I got some new Paasche bottles and lids w/tubes. I noticed that the tube fitting on the 1oz. bottle lid was different than the lid that came with the air brush originally. Not a problem,except that this tip/how to would not work with this new style? lid w/tube...so I came up with a working solution. Newer style lid w/ tube on the Left, the original VL air brush lid w/tube on the Right With the newer style lid (Left) the vinyl tube fits inside the fitting. With the original VL air brush lid w/tube (Right) the vinyl tube fits over a barbed fitting. Newer style lid w/ vinyl tube removed This old CA glue bottle nozzle will become an adapter that goes between the lid fitting and the vinyl micro fuel line. Be sure and clean any glue remnants from the nozzle...I used a drill bit and blew it out w/compressed air. Remove the threaded portion of the nozzle...avoid cutting into the inner flange of the nozzle, this is what will end up fitting over the lid fitting. Remove the grooved ridges from the base of the nozzle...remove enough so that the nozzle will fit up into the lid and the lid can be screwed to a bottle. Taper the tip enough so that the vinyl micro fuel line will fit over the tip. Slide the vinyl tube over the nozzle Firmly press the nozzle over the fitting. 1 oz. lid with tube adapter on a former clear coat bottle that has been re purposed for spray painting.

I shoot a Paasche VL airbrush w/the 1 oz. glass jar. After my last session, I went to clean the air brush and discovered cracks in the vinyl pick up tube that is in the glass jar. 1/8" I.D X 1/4" O.D micro fuel line (Red) One foot of fuel line cost me $2.00...enough to last me a long time. As it turns out,the inside dia. of micro fuel line (gas powered weed eaters as an example) is a perfect fit over the fitting on the glass jar lid. Instead of trying to clean the pick up tube every time I use the air brush,I will just simply replace the used pick up tube with a new, clean one.

First off a salute to my fellow veterans on the forum..... I have started to work on the packer body and its separate components. This is from the Garwood sales brochure for the LP 900 packer. This is the view looking forward towards the truck cab from inside the packer body. Here is the same part from the kit. The lower portion and upright portions are part of the hydraulic tank. I am going to be displaying this at model shows with the roof of the packer body off, so I will be filling in those open portions with styrene sheet to replicate the hydraulic tank shown in the sales brochure. This is also from the LP 900 sales brochure. This view is from the front part of the packer body looking towards the rear of the ejection panel..... the sliding panel that pushes out the trash at the landfill as well as compacts the trash being picked up. I will be cutting a notch in the ejection panel for the raceway and attaching it so that the raceway will stay in place with the roof off instead of making it part of the roof as shown in the brochure. These are the inside of the packer body sides. I understand to make the injection mold process work that AMT had to do it this way, but the insides need to be flat with no obstructions. These raised parts would be disastrous in the real world. I will be filling in the areas between the raised parts with styrene sheet to have a smooth interior of the packer body.

Thanks!!! Just about got the cab wrapped up and have started on the packer,hopefully posting some progress pictures soon.

The Ad Astra Modeling Club here in Topeka, Ks. had its annual show today......got a few truck pictures.... Fellow forum member and member of the Ad Astra Modeling Club, Paul, built this diorama along with fellow Ad Astra member Lamar Johnson. Along with the logging truck diorama, Paul also built this fine looking combo. A lot of scratch building went into this wrecker

Shot this first light coat of color with the air brush....turns out there was cracks in the pick up tube...will have to sand out the areas of splatter and re shoot, other than that I'm o.k with it.

I went to the annual Prison City Model show in Leavenworth, Ks. ...did'nt show a truck, rather a dirt track Gran Torino that garnered me a 3rd place finish in the competition class....enough of the car stuff. This American La France 900 series pumper that pays homage to the 343 New York City firefighters that lost their lives in the line of duty on 9-11 won an award in the truck category...built by Brian Gauthier of the Show Me State Modelers....plenty of after market and scratch building. One clean cab over.

Just checked out your eBay store.....for any of you who haven't checked it out yet, you really need to.