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AMT Ford C Series cab over fitment issues and solutions Pt4 Body Clearance
Brian Conn replied to Brian Conn's topic in Model Truck Building Tips & Tricks
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AMT Ford C Series cab over fitment issues and solutions Pt4 Body Clearance
Brian Conn posted a topic in Model Truck Building Tips & Tricks
This part is more of a personal preference from past experiences. The AMT Ford C Series cab over is offered with a variety of bodies.... box truck delivery,trash truck and a flat bed,stake truck. I am going to presume that all 3 bodies mount the same way to the chassis...I am only familiar with the trash truck...in that there are locating pins on the chassis and corresponding holes on the body. I.M.H.O the trash truck body sits too close to the tires. In the 1:1 world this is inviting a D.O.T enforcement inspector to pull you over for an inspection...either your overweight or something is broke on the suspension....either way it will ruin your day. A good rule of thumb is aprox. 6" of clearance between the top of the tire and the bottom of the body ( box truck, garbage truck, flat bed. etc. etc.) with no load. As far as the box truck and flat bed trucks go , I don't know if they sit any higher or lower than the garbage truck body....from what I can tell from pictures of builds, they have about the same clearance as the trash truck. I am going with 6 scale inches (6 m.m) of clearance. I needed to add 2.79mm. to get 6.6 mm. The larger round tube is the spacer cut to 2.79 mm. It is Evergreen part# 224 1/8" tube (3.2 mm.) it fits snugly over the pins on the chassis. The smaller rod is the locating pin that fits into the bottom side of the body. It is Evergreen part# 212 080" rod (2.0 mm.) You will have to slightly open up the end of the Evergreen tubing to get the rod to fit inside. I will fill in the area between the new spacers to illuminate the gaps. 6 mm. of clearance, right on the money. -
AMT Ford C Series cab over fitment issues and solutions Pt3. The Cab
Brian Conn posted a topic in Model Truck Building Tips & Tricks
The cab presents the most visible issues. I've personally seen more than a few where the cab is still tilted slightly forward in the down position and worse. The stories abound about the frustrations some builders have had with getting the cab to sit right and to be able to tilt the cab forward without coming into contact with the grill. Despite what the instructions say, do not attach the rear cab support until everything is where it needs to be and your satisfied with the results. I had to make small notch on the inner splash panels. The reason was that the splash panel was sitting on top of the upper shock mount, thus not allowing the cab to seat properly in the rear cab support. Another area to take a look at is the radiator. The top of the radiator could possibly come into contact with the bottom side of the cab interior floor pan. When attaching the floor pan make sure that the foot box (rectangle box area adjacent to the doors) is level with the bottom of the cab and that the rest of floor pan is level. Doing this is the first part in helping to prevent the cab from coming into contact with the grill when being tilted forward. Note the area where I had to remove a portion of the underside due to clearance issues...some of it was due to scratch building , some of it wasn't. This is the second part in helping to prevent the cab from coming into contact with the grill when being tilted forward. The reason that the cab comes into contact with the grill is that the grill, when properly attached according to the instructions, is too far forward. With the cab in place, start removing material from the front portion of the frame rails. Test fit the bumper/grill, The round, outer portions of the grill need to be flush with the front of the cab. Here are some 1:1 examples: - Last week
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AMT Mack R685ST
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Here’s the latest update. Over the past couple months, I’ve been finishing the exterior bodywork on the stacker trailer. I’ve done a lot of corrections to the wheel well trim - one of the most difficult things to get right on this trailer. I’ve put four coats of primer on it, correcting minor imperfections in between. More filling and sanding than I originally anticipated, but there’s light at the end of the tunnel. The above photos show one of the workbench sanding sessions in between primer coats. Below are photos from the paint booth during what I hope is the second to last layer of primer.
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Slowly warm it with a hair dryer and reshape it. Hold it in place while it cools and it should be good to go. Be gentle with the heat and the reshaping. If you cannot get it back in shape, shoot me a message
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Robert Benner joined the community
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Unfortunately there is not an easy "fix" .....a picture of the hood would be most helpful
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I just got the parts I ordered including two 3d printed extended hoods for Revell Germany Peterbilt 359 kits. One of them looks good but the other is spread outwards and out of shape and needs to get back to shape...how can I do that without destroying the part?
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Hey, how are ya, thanks for looking, may do this kit bash again in a custom road truck.
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Nice custom fabrication. Something you’d see at a truck show attracting a big crowd. Aftermarket tires and the grille screen make a big difference. That engine is a beast!
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This build was wrapped up a few weeks ago. It is a kit bash with the Watkins 925 and the Malone race truck. I used the long hood (15mm longer than stock) and the twin blower/ twin turbo V12 engine. The turbos were exchanged for larger turbos and re-plumbed for an intercooler. Frame stretch, hand built aluminum exhaust, custom fuel tanks, fabricated headache rack, grill was cut out and replaced with a screen, custom interior, aftermarket tires, and cast mirrors.
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The hood you see is for the Revell snap kit.
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hello my name is william are making w900l hood for the revell w900 ken worth truck thank you from william
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AMT Ford C series cab over fitment issues and solutions Pt2 Rear Axle
Brian Conn replied to Brian Conn's topic in Model Truck Building Tips & Tricks
Your very welcome! Look for a part 3 relating to the cab and its inherit issue and how to remedy it coming out soon...got side tracked with work and the winter storm. -
AMT Ford C series cab over fitment issues and solutions Pt2 Rear Axle
JPR replied to Brian Conn's topic in Model Truck Building Tips & Tricks
Excellent tip. Thanks ! -
Thank you, yup wish I could drive a truck that nice
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That is a gorgeous build,Gary. I would have loved to drive something that sweet… still would actually. Super build
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Finished this truck a few months back, I started with the AMT Watkins kit. Built a double drop trailer with similar treatment that the truck has with fenders, colors and tires/wheels.
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Garrett Collins joined the community
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JeremypiEvy joined the community
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I get a lot of windshield time listening to talk radio....mostly news of the world, or is that news of the weird....anyway of all things the discussion of C.W McCall came up....could have been that I was in S.E Nebraska and he hails from the Omaha Area. Here was the gist of the story. Turns out there are 4 different versions of the song Convoy 2 by C.W himself ,the radio version and the movie version. One by Canadian Paul Brandt ....saw a Paul Brandt trucking rig on South Bound 75 North of T-Town today ...coincidence???!!!??? Bonus points if you know where T-Town is! And one by Irishman Paul Kelly , yea that's right the trucking in the U.K! Links to these songs can be found at Google
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AMT Ford C series cab over fitment issues and solutions Pt2 Rear Axle
Brian Conn posted a topic in Model Truck Building Tips & Tricks
The rear axle visibly looks good...its what you don't see necessarily that is the issue..allow me to explain. The AMT truck rear axle has a steel rod that is attached to the wheel assembly's. As you can see in the picture, the rod is much smaller than the center hole in the rear axle which can cause, depending on if a body is mounted, a clearance issue with the top of the tire and the underside of the body. As a rule of thumb, there needs to be no less than 5 mm. (5" in 1:1 scale) of clearance between the top of the tire and the underside of the body. More clearance is builders choice. Where this would not be an issue is with the C series tractor since it has a fifth wheel. WASTE NOT, WANT NOT I don't see common, ordinary things like most people, rather I see a potential, useful item to be used for scratch building....case in point. These are the guts out of a dried up click pen...the White piece is the perfect size to fit into the axle and also allow the steel rod to fit into. Its now a bushing of sorts that pretty much eliminates the slop in the rear axle and will add a small, bit more clearance between the top of the tire and underside of the body... aprox. 2 mm.. This is not a drill bit , but rather a reamer. Ream the axle holes large enough so that the White piece fits into the axle snugly. I found that I only needed to ream a small bit on each side of the axle for the pen piece to properly fit. Fit the piece into the axle and cut off the excess. Insert the steel rod, attach the wheels and you done. You can do the same thing with an Evergreen tube...unsure of the number or dimensions as I don't have any on hand at this time. -
AMT Ford C series cab over fitment issues and solutions Pt1. Squaring the frame
Brian Conn posted a topic in Model Truck Building Tips & Tricks
As I am finding out with my first truck build, an AMT Ford C series cab over, that AMT trucks leave some to be desired as far as parts fitment and related issues as I have read here and elsewhere on the internet. If you have built an AMT big truck with out any fitment issues, congratulations your one of the few, as for the rest of us...... I am going to break this up into parts, hopefully making it easier. PART 1: Squaring the frame The frame is the foundation from which a truck is build, much the same way a sturdy foundation is from which a building is built. Since the frames consist of two separate side rails and numerous cross members is up to the builder to take the time and make sure that the frame is square, if not then pretty much everything will not be in proper alignment from that point forward and make for a frustrating building experience. Everyone has their different ways as far as holding the frame sections in place while their being attached...if it works for you use it....personally I use a flat,steel building plate and magnets along with modeling clay. Use only the two side rails/frame pieces and the front most and rear most cross members. Use the rear cross member that goes between the frame rails and not the cross member that attaches to the body frame (above the truck frame) as in the trash truck, city delivery/Coke, stake truck. Locate a point on your frame that you can use as a reference..in this case I use the rear most locator pin on the frame that is used to locate the trash truck packer box to the frame. There is another one on the opposite frame rail same location. On the front I used the center hole on the frame half of the cab pivot/hinge. It's important that you do a diagonal measurement as pictured, it needs to be an equal length on both sides Once you are satisfied that the frame is square and true, attach the all cross members except for the transmission cross member/mount and cab support despite what the instructions may show. You will locate and attach those while doing the engine and cab alignment. -
If you have a question about their installation, etc., I would be happy to help. If you are looking for a customer perspective on use, quality etc., you may want to ask in our Facebook group. It has a large number of customers as members and is quite active.
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Has anyone used the fram ext. from here?
