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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/29/2024 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Built almost entirely with left over parts from other kits. Holmes 750 style wrecker unit entirely scratch-built.
  2. 4 points
    Modelled after a real wrecker used by a local towing company. Real wrecker weighs 103,000-pound necessitating 5 axles and special permits to operate in most states. Boom rotates 360 degrees and is poseable. It has a scale 8 feet of travel on the frame. Model is almost completely scratch-built using styrene plastic sheets and structural shapes.
  3. 2 points
    Now I like this! Very nice! Excellent work!
  4. 2 points
    THank you. Resin cab was a bit of a challenge because of the thickness of the casting.
  5. 2 points
    Beautiful paint colors, and details. Impressive scratchbuilding. Love the subject and craftsmanship.
  6. 2 points
  7. 1 point
    Wow, man you got some serious skills, well done
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
    Look Amazing! Very nice work on the cooler! Excellent work!
  10. 1 point
    This was built from an old Mark Savage cab. It has an M11 Cummins from Gary Wallace.
  11. 1 point
    Here's some pics of my new 1926 Mack Stake truck. Built box stock with custom built racks and some mild oil and dirt staining which is hard to see in the pictures. This was the log truck version, but I wasn't crazy about the load so I decided to change the bed. I did find certain things that I didn't like in this kit, like poor locater marks and some fitment issues but nothing insurmountable. All in all, I think it looks like a nice model of an historic truck. Sorry about the small pics; for some reason the pictures won't transfer correctly from the camera to the computer.
  12. 1 point
    Now that we have a rolling (non-rolling) chassis, time to install the engine and add the radiator and charge air cooler. It’s a squeeze, but she fits. There’s a lot of extra parts adding to the overall engine width, like the serpentine bracket, so I made sure to measure and test fit beforehand. To connect the driveline, I made three driveshaft carrier bearings from styrene. Onto the CAC: There’s a void in the aftermarket for a proper charge air cooler/air to air aftercooler. Italeri tried in the 378 kit, but it leaves a lot to be desired. I used the Italeri kit parts as a basis for creating an aftermarket CAC in the style of a Duralite. I added photo etched radiator mesh and modified the side of the kit radiator. Then, adding putty to create the shape needed. The kit’s radiator coolant reservoir was added to the top at this point, but I will replace it later with a better version. On the front side, I added a parallel flow AC condenser unit, made with photo etched mesh. I’ll add the lines to and from it later, as well as the air intake connectors and pipes to the turbo and engine block.
  13. 1 point
    ......Those Holmes 750's just look right on any 60's truck chassis........nice build
  14. 1 point
    Thank you. The model also turned out to be quite heavy...in plastic no less.
  15. 1 point
    Wow, fantastic build. 103k? She’s certainly heavy. But I suppose that adds stability. Nice scratch building. She’s a beauty.
  16. 1 point
    Took a year to complete and my fleet is growing.
  17. 1 point
    Last build of the year.
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    Just a box stock rendition of the Atlantis reissue, finished with Tamiya paints and Monroe weathering powder. This is the first one I've built out of the box, and now I've started a second. 🤣 Now I need to go through my back issues of Model Cars Magazine and find the series from the 2007 NNL.
  20. 1 point
    I finished this build right before Christmas last year. No frame stretch, just removed sleeper and scratch built the flatbed and fuel tanks.
  21. 1 point
    I build all my trucks so that no axle turns and agree that is just an accident waiting to happen especially when the grandkid’s are nearby. I do the same but use solid plastic axles and I use Moebius wheelset most of the time. Before glueing the tire/wheel combo on, I will take the time to rotate them, mark them so they all line up well and make contact to the flat surface. Takes time, but to see a finished rig with an inside dual hanging in the air just looks strange.
  22. 1 point
    That looks pretty awesome Victor!! I don't like my wheels to roll, at least not on every axle. For me it is an accident waiting to happen! I like to leave the brakes on.
  23. 1 point
    Went with the entire Moebius front floats/super singles set. The battery boxes are in place and I went with the optional roo-bar front bumper.
  24. 1 point
    This mini-vacuum is the best $20 you will ever spend. You can order it on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074SJLGXW?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details As you know, building a model is full of challenges and one of them is keeping parts and the work area clean. This little tool has just the right amount suction to gently remove the styrene dust and shavings that get everywhere. I cannot recommend it enough. It is always at my side.
  25. 1 point
    I'm sure that I'm not the first one to do it this way but I was looking for an alternative way to stretch a frame versus butting the ends of the cut frame rail sections against one another and lapping a strip of styrene over the joint. Here's that alternative: At the Joint of the frame, remove the shaded portion of the frame rail ends as shown below. On one frame rail section, remove the center of the vertical portion of the rail leaving the horizontal portion intact (left). The length of the portion removed is not critical, 3/8" or so should work. On the other frame rail section, remove the horizontal portion of the rail leaving the vertical portion intact (right). The length of the portion removed should be the same as the length of the portion removed from the other frame rail section. Note: Do not remove the horizontal portion by sawing along the inner edge of the horizontal portion of the frame rail, you will remove too much material from the tab. Carefully cut the horizontal portion out with an Exacto knife, etc. Connect the two sections like puzzle pieces and glue. I use a straight edge (in this case my miter box) and a flat surface to align the sections and keep the rail straight while the glue dries. Once dry, you should have a strong, straight joint that requires very little filler and is more realistic than the lap joint method. Hope this helps, Casey
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