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....One last update for 2025.... Have the hopper done and ready for weathering Began some subtle weathering on the upper panel Will be scratch building the control handle for the over head winch that ties in with the controls for the upper and lower panels HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL AND KEEP ON TRUCKIN'

As I am finding out with my first truck build, an AMT Ford C series cab over, that AMT trucks leave some to be desired as far as parts fitment and related issues as I have read here and elsewhere on the internet. If you have built an AMT big truck with out any fitment issues, congratulations your one of the few, as for the rest of us...... I am going to break this up into parts, hopefully making it easier. PART 1: Squaring the frame The frame is the foundation from which a truck is build, much the same way a sturdy foundation is from which a building is built. Since the frames consist of two separate side rails and numerous cross members is up to the builder to take the time and make sure that the frame is square, if not then pretty much everything will not be in proper alignment from that point forward and make for a frustrating building experience. Everyone has their different ways as far as holding the frame sections in place while their being attached...if it works for you use it....personally I use a flat,steel building plate and magnets along with modeling clay. Use only the two side rails/frame pieces and the front most and rear most cross members. Use the rear cross member that goes between the frame rails and not the cross member that attaches to the body frame (above the truck frame) as in the trash truck, city delivery/Coke, stake truck. Locate a point on your frame that you can use as a reference..in this case I use the rear most locator pin on the frame that is used to locate the trash truck packer box to the frame. There is another one on the opposite frame rail same location. On the front I used the center hole on the frame half of the cab pivot/hinge. It's important that you do a diagonal measurement as pictured, it needs to be an equal length on both sides Once you are satisfied that the frame is square and true, attach the all cross members except for the transmission cross member/mount and cab support despite what the instructions may show. You will locate and attach those while doing the engine and cab alignment.

Cab interior is exquisite. The leather work is eye watering good. So clean and precise. Watching these builds closely. Some really good ideas. Imm looking forward to tje next update. Really good stuff here

Thanks for the response!!!! I have had too much outside the hobby room drama going on to maintain the focus and concentration needed...should have knocked this one out a long time ago....so I keep on keepin' on.

One of the most detailed builds of this kit I’ve seen so far. Nice upgrades. I like the scratch built hydraulic lines and the electrical conduit for the rear of the packer body. That’s something I’d forget to add.

Nothing SPOOKtacular to report on this Halloween day........ Inching closer to completion, still a ways to go.....had hoped to have had it in the model clubs annual show coming up in a couple of weeks, looks like next year. Since the P.E kit that I got from S.T.S came with a radio face, I went all in and scratch built an antennae to go with the radio. Still need to dirty up the front of the cab a little bit as the dirty windshield-clean body look wont pass muster with the judges. Scratch built the hydraulic lines for the front of the packer body, also the electrical conduit for the rear of the packer body (vertical round white piece, Left of center going down into truck chassis) Overhead electrical and hydraulic line raceway going towards the rear of the packer body.