Driptroit71 built this one from the AMT Orange Blossom Special kit. It is meant to represent an old barn find. I think he nailed it!
IMG_1510 by Brian Smith, on Flickr
IMG_1525 by Brian Smith, on Flickr
IMG_1527 by Brian Smith, on Flickr
IMG_1530 by Brian Smith, on Flickr
IMG_1534 by Brian Smith, on Flickr
IMG_1386 by Brian Smith, on Flickr
IMG_1390 by Brian Smith, on Flickr
Latest Forum Posts
Ford Model AA truck
By jpage · PostedHere are some shots of a model I'm building of a 1930/31 Ford Model AA truck. A Minicraft 1/16 Model A truck kit is the donor for the cab, engine, front axle and a few small parts. Everything else, frame, wheels, tranny and rear axle are all scratch built. Tire are from Thomas toys, made for some old cast toy truck which happened to be the perfect size. This has been on the back burner for a while, really should get out and finish it. The chassis is all the farther I've gotten. All the wheel bolts are tiny brass bolts and nuts.I'm almost inclined not to finish as most of the frame will not be seen. The engine will be wired and all the brake rods installed. The drag link moves with the front wheels.
By jpage · PostedHi, I'm Jim Page from Pennsylvania. Been building models since 1964 and been trying to get back into it now that I'm semi retired. I fool mostly with real antique cars and am currently restoring a 1936 Dodge sedan. My son recently purchased an old 1975 Chevy C65 single axle dump truck for his construction business. He was really excited about it and it has brought back memories of my teenage years. It's a real beast but a lot of fun to drive. I'd been wanting to build a 1/25 scale model of it for him and have been searching for parts on the internet. I did see a resin C6500 Chevy/GMC conversion kit at PPvintage kits and some parts at Sourkrauts parts but have not been able to contact them. Does anyone know if either of these companies are still in business or if anyone else sells the c6500 kit? Any help will be appreciated. Another foray in modeling that I tried was to build a 1/6 scale model of my '36 Dodge engine. 2 years and still not completely finished but here are a couple of shots of it. Take care guys!
Searching for C6500 resin kit
By jpage · PostedHello. I'm new to the forum and am looking for a resin Chevy /GMC C6500 cab kit. I saw one on PPVintage kits website but have not been able to get them to respond to emails. Are they still in business? If not, does anyone know where I can find this kit or did it disappear? Any help will be appreciated. Thanks
Scale Converter (in, cm, mm)
By Joris in Joris' BlogThe Build-Off Peterbilt is getting close to completion! I have the hood functional, the mirrors are on and I made a big bumper from styrene. All that's left is the fenders over the rear wheels; I'm still not sure about the definite style and way of attaching them, but I have some time left to figure that out. License plate decals and IFTA decals are last. The stack tips are in place as well, but I'm not really sure If that was smart. I might have to work on the underside of the truck a little for that. Oh well...
By Casey in How-ToDisclaimer. I am not professional and there is a possibility that I have no clue what I am doing. I hope that I have put enough info together to give you a good I idea of the steps that I use to create single hump fenders. If clarification is need, please let me know and I add info/edit as required. Sorry for not taking a few more/better images. Hope this helps!
1. Begin by cutting a 1 15/16" round disk from a sheet of .040 sheet styrene. I used a bow compass with metal points on both sided to get the job done. If you use this method be sure to make the center hole the same size as the compass point; if it is larger you will not get a symmetrical disk.
2. Mount the disk on a Dremel cutting wheel attachment. (The image below shows two mounted but one is fine.)
3. Begin to round the outer edge of the disk using a rasp of other coarse file, sanding stick etc.
4. Fine tune the chamfer of the outer edge of the fender with a sanding block. I used 220 grit sanding paper.
5. Finished disk on the right.
6. Before performing this step make a mark that divides the disk into two equal halves. Then cut the center out of the disk leaving a 5/8" circle and then cut the circle in two. You will then have two "C" shaped pieces as seen in step 7.
7. Glue a .060 x.040 styrene strip (SS1) around the outer edge of the "C". One of the .040 sides should be glued to the "C" and the strip should extend beyond the end of the "C".
8. Cut a hole with the same diameter as inner hole of the upper fender wall (UFW) above from a sheet od styrene and layout and cut the lower fender wall (LFW) as seen in the image below and the image in the next step. (Sorry for not taking better pics of this part)
9. Glue the LFW to the UFW and SS1, and cut the ends off SS1 off at the lower edge of the LFW.
10. Cut the lower portion of the LFW to achieve the desired fender height.
11. Glue a .030 x .250 strip (SS2) inside of SS1.
12. Make another side just like the one above.
13. Cut two strips of .020 styrene to the desired fender width (don't forget to account for the width od the sides) and long enough to wrap around the outside of the fender.
14. Beginning at one end, glue the first SS3 to SS2, wrapping it around the outer edge of the fender as you go. Be sure to keep the seam between SS3 and SS1 on each side as tight as possible. Cut the ends even with the lower ends of the fender side walls.
15. Wrap the second SS3 over the first SS3. Again, keep the seam between SS3 and SS1 on each side as tight as possible and cut the ends even with the lower ends of the fender side walls.
Fill and Prime
If all this seems like too much work, you can purchase a resin set in the Parts Store.
By Casey in How-ToI'm sure that I'm not the first one to do it this way but I was looking for an alternative way to stretch a frame versus butting the ends of the cut frame rail sections against one another and lapping a strip of styrene over the joint. Here's that alternative:
At the Joint of the frame, remove the shaded portion of the frame rail ends as shown below.
On one frame rail section, remove the center of the vertical portion of the rail leaving the horizontal portion intact (left). The length of the portion removed is not critical, 3/8" or so should work.
On the other frame rail section, remove the horizontal portion of the rail leaving the vertical portion intact (right). The length of the portion removed should be the same as the length of the portion removed from the other frame rail section. Note: Do not remove the horizontal portion by sawing along the inner edge of the horizontal portion of the frame rail, you will remove too much material from the tab. Carefully cut the horizontal portion out with an Exacto knife, etc.
Connect the two sections like puzzle pieces and glue. I use a straight edge (in this case my miter box) and a flat surface to align the sections and keep the rail straight while the glue dries.
Once dry, you should have a strong, straight joint that requires very little filler and is more realistic than the lap joint method.
Hope this helps,
By Johnny Red in How-ToBackdating the hood on this kit isn't as tough as one might think. With the proper tools, and a little patience, this conversion is quite simple.
First is to prime the hood to see the markings for the cuts, I drilled two holes in the top of the fenders for corner location. The first cut with a razor saw was along the hood upright on an angle to the bottom of the headlight buckets. Second cut came in from the side, at this point you should be meeting with the drilled holes.
The first cut with a razor saw was along the hood upright on an angle to the bottom of the headlight buckets.
Second cut came in from the side, at this point you should be meeting with the drilled holes.
Now that both buckets are gone I lined the inside of the fenders with sheet styrene cut to fit, this creates a foundation for the putty to lay on. Everyone has their favorite brand, mine just seems to be squadron green and white.
Starting with the green, put more than enough on and go past the ground zero, this will help in the end results.
After the green is sanded off, you should have noticeable low spots.
Now comes the white, I'm using two colors as a guide to see how deep I'm going into the fender
Once this is sanded off, do a quick mock up to check your work. At this point more primer will be applied and small defects will be cared for prior to paint.