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Jetdriver69

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Hi everyone.  Im kind of new to big truck modeling but have been doing hot rods and military models for many years.

As a favor to my friend, Im building a Peterbilt 379 that his Dad had driven for about 1 million miles.

His truck is very customized with a lengthened frame.

My question is, does anyone have some left over sections of the frame from an Italeri 378 kit or any other that might be close that I could beg or purchase?

I could scratch build the frame sections, but a cut and splice piece would be so much easier.  I need two 20mm sections at a minimum.

BTW, if anyone needs a set of air horns still on the sprue, let me know.

I'm using 4 pewter air horns I got off eBay.

Thanks for the help.

Jet.

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Welcome to MTB.com!  Please let me know if you need any assistance with or have suggestions for improving the site.

 

I can't help you with the frame rails but I did put together a frame stretch tutorial that you may find interesting.

 

--Casey

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Thanks, I will take a look at at it.

This project will take quite a bit of time time as I have to scratch build a few things and build a glass and wood case.

Told them not to expect it before Xmas...

Edited by Jetdriver69

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This is the truck I will be building, or attempting to build...

It has a lot of extra chrome, rear fenders, air horns by the door, diesel APU on the left side and custom step with fire extinguisher holder on the right.

The frame has a chrome insert all the way back to the tail lights. 8 inch pipes, old style headlights, custom bumper, 17 radiator louvers, the list is very long.

Of course the kit didn't come with a flat sleeper roof, so I'm making that now. Will have to scratch the rear fenders, as the resin supplier is out of stock.

Stripped the chrome off most of the parts and will Alclad eventually. 

The second picture is the diesel APU the owner had installed and the next is the 1/25 scale version.

I stripped the chrome off the radiator grill and am installing louvers one at time.  Very tedious to get the right angle.

Might be done by Xmas...

 

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Too late for new frame rails.

The truck owner didn't know the frame was not stock until I had the and axles together and painted.

Now I have to stretch it 27mm.

No big deal, but would have much easier with the frame rails apart and not painted.

Does anyone have a pair of P&P resin works RF1 rear fenders they would sell?

They are out of stock and may not have anymore until the summer.

Again, much easier than scratch building them...

Thanks

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5 hours ago, Jetdriver69 said:

Does anyone have a pair of P&P resin works RF1 rear fenders they would sell?

 

Have you seen these?

 

They are very close to the ones on the truck and they are very available.

 

--Casey

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I am nearing completion on the truck and the worst has happened.  

I cut the drivers door out from the cab so the interior detail can be seen.   After painting, clearing and color sanding the door somehow my wife's dachshund puppy got ahold of it and chewed it to pieces.  I think half the door is in his gut, but he is just a puppy.

Does anyone out there have a wrecked Italeri Peterbilt 378 or 359 cab or drivers door in their parts bin?

I would gladly pay for the part and shipping.  Just trying to avoid buying an entire new kit.

Thanks!

 

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That is horrible.  Unfortunately, I do not have any spare Italeri stuff.  I would suggest asking on one of the Facebook groups.  I'm sure some will have one to give/sell you.

Please keep us updated on the build.

--Casey 

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I found a guy selling a wrecked Peterbilt on eBay and the bidding got to $37.00 with shipping.  

Screw that, bought a whole new kit for $62 delivered.

Will use what I need and put 95% rest of the kit on eBay in case someone wants frame rails, wheels or whatever.

Will throw in the extra stuff from the original kit that I didn't use. Bumper, air horns and few other parts.

If I can get $30 for the remainder, I will be happy with that.

Included a picture of a custom Texas bumper I made out of sheet styrene and alclad'ed.

Didn't come out too bad for the first time using the chrome spray.

That little bottle is damn expensive and doesn't last long...

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Since I'm converting the 378 long hauler into a 379 long nose Peterbilt, I needed a different hood.

P&P resins are out of stock on their resin hood, so I tried a 3D printing company called Shapeways that advertised a hood that would fit the Italeri kit.

Well $40 later, I get the part in the mail today and it looks like complete crap.

The finish is so rough that I would ruin the part trying to sand it out.  Yes I'm getting a refund and don't use these guys for parts.

Does anyone have a resin long nose hood for sale or know of another supplier?

Thanks

Marty

 

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That’s too bad about the 3d printed hood. I was curious about the Shapeways items, they have several things for 1/24 scale Peterbilts.

The only 1/24 379 resin hood that’s available at this time, I believe, is from Gary at GW Trucks (GWTrucks@yahoo.com). I’ve seen a few photos of models using his conversion and it looks good. P&P’s is very nice, but out of stock, and Jamie at Moluminum has one, but it is 1/25 scale. He has a lot of other great stuff, though. Hope this helps, you’ve got a great model started already.

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For those who like pictures.

The ass end is just about done. Now for the hard part.

Those are resin lights from P&P.  Scratch built the mount and shot it with Alclad II.

The turn signal is a small diameter aluminum pipe with the marker lights from the extra Peterbilt kit I had to buy. Thanks dog for eating my homework...

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Its been a while, but nearing the end of the project.

I cut the driver's door out so you can see the interior, so that needs to be finished and I need to paint the long nose hood.

It was quite the PITA to get the hood to fit and swing properly, but that is done.

A lot of small things to attach and build the display box.

Custom work takes a hell of a long time.

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First time I used the Alclad Chrome.  That stuff is expensive and doesn't go very far. 

Anyway, about the only thing you can do if you want to fill in the seams of chrome parts and do the chrome door jams and trim.

Still got a ways to go.

My buddy got a quote from a pro modeler at $2000 to do this model with all the custom work.  At first I called B.S., no way it would cost that much to do this model.

But now that I have God knows how many hours in this, a bunch of scratch and customs aftermarket parts, a $100 acrylic cover for the base and at $10 an hour, that quote ain't too far off.  Does anyone actually make a profit doing contract model work?

Not counting the extra kit I had to buy because our puppy ate one of the doors, I have near $500 into this including the base.  

I think I could have got a good start on restoring a real car with this many hours invested.

Edited by Jetdriver69
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