vincen47

Excellent! Keep it going.

Simply beautiful. Excellent work. Looks like a perfect example of a modern day show truck restoration.

Thanks, Brian. Yes, she still has miles to go, and no truck payment, right? Thanks, Gary. I appreciate it. It was a fun build.

Inspired by the steel haulers that run I-75 between Detroit and Toledo, here’s a parts box/glue bomb save that was an enjoyable build. Now, don’t get me wrong, many of the Detroit area conestoga pullers are beautiful large cars, worthy of best in show. The most beautiful rigs decked out in lights and chrome. But, there’s a few steel movers that are running out their twilight years wearing dirt, missing parts, and held together with duct tape and a prayer. This old Freightliner has seen better days, but she’s still earning her keep. The kit engine was replaced with a wired, plumbed and weathered Italeri Detroit Diesel Series 60. Aftermarket wheels and mismatched tires were added. It’s missing some fairings, and one of the original fuel tanks. The factory exhaust was replaced by a single weed-burner pipe. It represents a truck that has had it’s series of changes and modifications over the years, many the result of fender benders and even a low bridge (That’s how the rooftop fairing and upper exhaust met their demise). The repairs are often back-yard style…just throw on cheap junkyard parts and make it work. The kind of truck that you need to know how to wrench-on if you want to own and drive it - for someone that’s mechanically savvy (and resourceful). I hope you enjoy it. But don’t call her ugly. At least, not to her face.

Thanks so much for checking in. I’ve been working on it here and there the past few months, doing more body work, mostly fixing small blemishes. In between, I built a Volvo VN 670, which I’ll post here soon. It gets a little tedious just doing body prep on a scratchbuilding project, so it’s nice to do a “quicker” kit project to break it up. I’ve done at least two more rounds of filling/sanding/primer on the stacker since the last post. I’m hoping that I’m nearing the end of the prep process and I can start paint soon. I’ll do an update when I’m ready for paint. Thanks again.

Just in case some of you are not on the other forum, I thought I’d start a WIP thread here, too. It is an usual project, but these rigs are becoming more and popular in the race and general RV travel markets, so you may have seen them on the road… Imagine taking a retired truck and building your dream RV from it? This build will be mostly custom work, just like the real thing. These rigs don’t roll out of the ‘ol Winnebago factory…and you find models like this in a kit, either. I will use Italeri’s 378 for some parts, along with Bill Drennan’s 379 hood. Lots of scratcbuilding and a host of aftermarket parts. Inspiration for this project came from rigs like this, (though the one above is a 389) where a used or factory-fresh commercial class 8 chassis is stretched and a coach body is added, creating the ultimate RV. The ultimate RV starts with the ultimate engine. Some may argue differently, but I think Cat’s 3406e from the late 1990’s is the finest example of diesel power, especially when it’s been decked out in aftermarket chrome and ceramic performance parts. I started with a resin Cat 3406E from Jamie at Moluminum. I detailed it using Ken Smith’s Car Modeller article on Fotki. I used 3d printed elbows from modelbuildermatt on Shapeways and metal fittings from Detail Master. Several engine components were scratch-built. The 18 speed Eaton Auto-shift transmission came from Moebius, with a lot of detail parts added using reference photos. Jamie’s casting didn’t include the 3 dimensional “CAT” logo on the chrome timing cover, but I added one using a casting of a Cat lapel pin I found on EBay that was the perfect size. I’m not a pro resin caster by any means, but I’ve found casting small, very simple parts, to be useful in this project. It took me several attempts, maybe a half-dozen, to get the valve covers looking good. I finally found putting Molotow down first, then adding the black in the recessed areas via a Molotow black pen was best. Careful painting of the red stripe and a triangle-cut of a yellow decal finished the iconic look of the Caterpillar 3406e’s valve covers.I put together a simple engine stand using square styrene tube. I currenty use it for other engines that are waiting to be installed in the next chassis. It’s a handy tool. That’s the basic engine so far, more about the other engine components when we get to the chassis installation. Ask questions, I’m sure there’s explanations I missed. Next, let’s get the frame rails laid down…

The photos show the trucks well, and I’m not seeing anything to nitpick about, but I understand your apprehension. I’ve only done one show (last September in St Ignace, we chatted about it) and it was not judged, just people’s choice. And those people were not particularly modelers, just general truck show attendees, so they were familiar with the subject matter, but not looking for someone to demonstrate modeling skill. Their votes seemed to fall towards “general effect” - things that brought a smile to their face - something that your models will certainly do. The other truck modelers there were very supportive and non-competitive. It was just a bunch of guys enjoying truck models.

It’s a beauty. Lots of custom parts. Updating the power with things like a charge air cooler is a feature a lot of guys miss. The Cummins logo is a nice touch. I enjoyed watching this come together on the other forum. You should definitely consider bringing this to a show.

Sorry to hear your search hasn’t yielded much info. I unfortunately can’t offer specific as to wheelbase offerings, but I have stretched frames to accommodate bodies. I definitely agree that you can just place the tandems where they “look right”, and go from there. Sort of, “reverse engineer” the project based on what your eye tells you is right. That’s ultimately what you’re aiming to please - your own opinion of what’s realistic based on what is sweet to your eye.

Here’s the latest update. Over the past couple months, I’ve been finishing the exterior bodywork on the stacker trailer. I’ve done a lot of corrections to the wheel well trim - one of the most difficult things to get right on this trailer. I’ve put four coats of primer on it, correcting minor imperfections in between. More filling and sanding than I originally anticipated, but there’s light at the end of the tunnel. The above photos show one of the workbench sanding sessions in between primer coats. Below are photos from the paint booth during what I hope is the second to last layer of primer.

Nice custom fabrication. Something you’d see at a truck show attracting a big crowd. Aftermarket tires and the grille screen make a big difference. That engine is a beast!

One of the most detailed builds of this kit I’ve seen so far. Nice upgrades. I like the scratch built hydraulic lines and the electrical conduit for the rear of the packer body. That’s something I’d forget to add.

I haven’t had a lot of time to dedicate to the project in the past month or so. But, I managed to get the body work done on the exterior of the trailer, and I was able to begin the process of laying down primer. Ignore the fish-eye effect on some of the photos, not sure why my phone was making the photos look like that. There wasn’t as much filling and sanding as was on the coach body, so I was able to skip the heavier primers and go straight to Mr. Hobby Black 1500. As usual, the primer exposes small, but noticeable flaws that’ll need a little more work. However, just getting it into black, even if it’s primer, makes me feel like I’ve accomplished something.

Got some more of the finish work done on the interior and exterior of the stacker. I improved the cabinets with trim and BMF (I wasn’t happy with the finish of the Revell Chrome). Made the edges more precise. I added a 120v electrical outlet panel from Iceman - I thinned the depth before mounting it to the cabinet unit. I also added under cabinet lighting and more photo etched switches from CTM’s VN interior set to finish it out. I updated the attic space by adding rubber coin sheets to the walls and moving the e-track. The ladder was installed. Mounted spare tires for the trailer and for the RV were installed using modified In-Bed Tire Mounts from Iceman. The workbench stool is from Black Sheep Customs on eBay. Shortened the height a little. Goes well with the style of the build. Lots more detail work to be done inside, but first I need to turn my attention to the exterior of the trailer. At this point, the exterior is mostly complete, just lacking finish body work and details. More filling and sanding before the primer coats. I made the removable roof and operating rear ramp door. I also made the tongue-mounted generator and AC/heat pump unit with access doors. The roof has channels that fit snug over the side panels. The door has a hinged diamond plate transition ramp that folds inward along with recessed handles. Next update, I should have it in primer. Thanks for watching.

I have the interior of the stacker mostly complete. I decided on grey walls, with stainless and black cabinets. I figured I had to do the interior work, with the exception of final details and trim, ahead of the exterior, for painting purposes. I couldn’t mask and paint the various finishes with the exterior walls in place. I had to get the sidewalls basically finished up first. So, I got to work on the side entry door. I was able to make it operational by sandwiching small brass hinges into the framework. Adding finish styrene trim and the door skin, it fits snug and smooth. I painted the aluminum/stainless surfaces with Revell Chrome and Spaz Stix Clearcoat. The rubber coin flooring got a coat of Tamiya rubber black. The front workshop area started with cabinets from BCS Trading, but I customized them, adding a workbench top, and skinned them in styrene and chrome paint to represent stainless steel. I also modified a washer and dryer I got a while back on shapeways. Some large RVs are equipped with a stackable washer combo inside them, but I always thought it could be put in the stacker instead, freeing up interior space. In a custom stacker, anything goes. The “attic” has rub rails and e-track tie downs, along with an operational drop gate to connect with the lift. Next, I’ll begin work on the rear ramp door, the roof, and trim work. The interior will need a lot of detail parts, too. Then, exterior finishing.

I’m sorry nobody on this forum, including myself, is able to identify that truck. May I suggest posting it on the model cars magazine forum? I bet there’s somebody there that can help.

It’s been a few months, but here’s another update…completed the stacker trailer flooring, lift, and one of the interior walls. I used 1/24 rubber coin flooring from Plastruct. I wanted a different look from the typical diamond plate, and it gave me the opportunity to elevate the photo-etched “track-style” tie down system from Tom’s Modelworks. The diamond plate will stay put in the side door step well and the floor winch door. The 3d printed lift is from BCS Trading on eBay. At a scale 14’ long, it was pretty close to what I wanted as is, but I had to narrow it a little by removing the mounts on the lift deck. I added pins, and as a bonus, it’s removable. The deck can be positioned in the up position, or laid on the floor for loading. The lift columns will mount plumb against the interior walls. The left sidewall is now complete. I added “studs” to the .040” exterior sheet, then the inside wall was added, along with the frame for the non-operating escape door above the wheel well. It’s pretty sturdy, as it needs to support the body. I’m planning a removable roof for display purposes. Next up, the other sidewall, front cap and rear door. I’ll also be working on the cabinets. I’ll prime and paint the floor, lift, and interior, too.

Can’t offer any help, but may I suggest asking over at the Model Cars Magazine forum? It gets a lot more traffic and I’m sure there’s a truck guy over there that has built those kits.

Another beautiful wrecker build!

Yes, same paint scheme. Black and chrome. I wanted to get the trailer built and primed so I could paint the RV and trailer at the same time, too.

Very nice build. I like the subtle weathering, and detail on the white engine. Nice photo etched upgrade on the grille. The Moebius tires are also an improvement. One of the best 352s I’ve seen in a while.

Started the outer sidewalls and front cap. I used some Galaxie trailer parts for the front cap, but widened them, and used a leftover 3d printed radius curve section from the RV body for the top portion. It’s roughed in, requiring more putty and sanding. I added an interior step well for the side entry door. The wheel wells will eventually get curved outer fenders to match the tires, along with the lower side panels to match the RV. Cut out the side entry door. That’ll be operational, along with the rear ramp door. Next, the sidewalls will get an inner framework and interior walls. Lots of body work.

Thanks! Glad you think it’s cool like I do. It’s an odd build, not a common subject to model.

I’m beginning work on the stacker trailer, with the plan to paint the coach body and trailer at the same time. The trailer will be loosely based on 24’ triple-axle models from Intech and T&E trailers, typical of what’s being custom-built today for use behind toterhomes and diesel pushers. It’ll match the 379 RV - all black with stainless lower sides. I plan to have a fully-detailed interior with cabinets and a 14’ lift. For the frame and floor, I’ve sourced parts from a partially-built Galaxie Limited 5th wheel enclosed trailer kit. I modified the length to match a scale 24’, added the bumper pull tongue from another kit and lengthened the tongue to a scale 5’ (extended tongues make it less likely to hit the coach body in sharp turns). Out of the box, the floor width is too narrow, so it was widened 1/8” on each side with styrene strip for an overall width of 102” (with the sidewalls in place) in 1/24 scale. I cut out the kit’s inner fenders and replaced them with taller and longer ones made from styrene sheet. The wheels and tires will be 19.5”, and the axles will have a 42” spacing, more typical of modern stacker trailers. To lower the ride height of the floor to the more realistic 14” ground clearance of most stackers, I modified the frame for the axles. I’m using the kit’s inner wheels as rudimentary disc brake assemblies to add width to the axles. The wheels are oval hole 19.5s from Scenes Unlimited. Tires are 19.5 Bridgestone steer/trailer tires from Moluminum. Next, I’ll be working on the sidewalls.

Not much in the past month since I finished the primer and did the latest mock up. But, I managed to start the frame/floor for the stacker trailer. I’ll post an update on that, maybe in the next week or so. Thanks for checking in.