vincen47

I’m not an expert, I consider myself always learning and improving, but I’ll take a stab at it. Other guys will offer their ideas too. Always more than one way of doing things, and no right or wrong when it comes to hobbies… For alignment of chassis components, some guys have used Lego bricks on a flat Lego sheet to make a cradle to keep things in check. I’ve used a metal plate jig with short 90 degree walls with magnets I got from Micro-Mark, and small 90 degree clamps they offer too. I often don’t really need a jig unless parts are warped. For longer drive shafts for stretched frames, I’ve used K&S aluminum tubing that ends of the original shaft fit snugly into, or extra shafts from the parts box, and added extra carrier bearings as needed. For frame stretching, there are a few ways to do it, depending on what material you have to work with. In each method, it’s best to reinforce the extension with some extra plastic material over top of the joints. if you have spare matching frame rails from another kit, you can cut the rails and insert a section from the donor rails. Usually it’s best to make the splice under the cab or sleeper area, making sure to avoid the cab or sleeper mounts, or mounting holes, so that those parts still attach as they should. Be sure to glue a strip of plastic to the inside of the rail over the joint, and also if possible, over the outside. This creates a sleeve or splice plate that reinforces the joints. You can sand the ends of the outside splice plates smooth, if they will be visible. A lot of guys put a deck plate over the area. This looks nice and it’s great for adding strength. With this, outside splice plates are not needed. I’ve also used sections of generic c-channel frame I purchased from Ryan Mlynek (Rhino’s model truck parts on FB or Ebay) This was a simple way to extend the frame because the older Italeri frames fit inside it, so it automatically made a nice sleeve over top. The blank c-channel frame doesn’t have any detail on it, but that is ok when it’s going to be covered by a sleeper anyway. The Rhino frame sections are the same size as Italeri’s Peterbilt kits, so that works well for those, too. Another thing to look into is a extension kit from Auslowe. The photos belowe show a few of the options. Basically, it’s exactly what I described above, but they take the guesswork out of it. You can choose between a straight cut or 45 degree, and the depth of the frame rail you’re wanting to match. They have a few choices in length too. https://www.auslowe.com.au/shop/category/chassis-rail-extension-kit-/3643 Hope this info helps. Looking forward to seeing your building progress on the forum.

Welcome to the forum!

I’m glad I found this nice review. I’m hoping for a reissue of the Transtar II. Better yet, I’m wishing for the additional unique parts tooling for an upgraded 4070B, using most (but not eliminating the unique parts) of the excellent new tooling of the 4070A.

Any more progress on this one?

Hope you’re having a good time with the build so far.

What an awesome build. It’s another one I missed when it was first posted. A lot of thought went into this getting things right. A 3406 cat swapped in, and it looks like you may have shortened the hood? Might be just the angle of the photo. Either way, what a beauty!

This one is from a while back, but I missed it the first time around. What a beauty. I love the idea of a working show truck, making a living and also providing eye candy for truck lovers on the weekend. I especially like the N14.

That’ll work just fine. A truck waiting for a new purpose, and looking cool at the same time, just like the inspiration photo.

That’ll be one mean machine. With no fifth wheel on the 1:1, I assume it had a body at one time, for off-road use. I’ve seen similar 4x4 trucks with those tires for ag use around here - fertilizer, etc.

That’s a clean, well-maintained truck. It should fetch a good price, and make good money for its next owner. An excellent build. I have to admit, at first glance, I pondered “such a clean truck for him?” But, further inspection revealed truly subtle and realistic weathering perfection.

Yes, most are scratchbuilt. However, I think Keystone may have something close. https://www.kamodelminis.com/ They have a lot of really awesome trailers and loads. You still have to do some scratch building, or at least borrow parts from other kits, but you can create some unique builds.

Glad you’re here. Hope you enjoy the forum!

A nice no-nonsense look. Strictly business.

Another great combo. I like the simple fleet look that’s so commonly seen on the road, but not as often on the hobby bench. I missed this posting last year, glad to see it.

Nice Prostar, you don’t see these built often. I don’t know how this one slipped by me last year, so I’m glad to see it now.

Just like the above posts, the liquid “welding” types are great for unpainted plastic. They are my go-to glue. Sometimes Cyanoacrylate (a.k.a CA or Superglue) is a good choice, especially if there are gaps to fill, or the type of plastic doesn’t work with the welders, or you’re bonding different materials. They come in many levels of viscosity. They can be messy, so use a toothpick or other stick to apply. Sometimes they don’t set as quickly as you need, so you can use an accelerator. For clear parts and attaching finishing items like emblems to painted surfaces, Pacer or Tamiya canopy glue works well, dries clear, no fogging. I also use Micro Krystal Klear.

Glad to have you with us.

A great looking rig. You’ve built yet another exquisite model of a fine piece of equipment. The finish on that paint is beautiful. It would gleam in an outdoor photo. Looks like the volunteers spend a lot of time washing and polishing the truck to a perfect shine.

Top notch! Excellent work. That blue looks great - I really love the finish. What a project, what a finish!

Yeah, thought about the ribs too, helping to disguise the tank diameter. I’ve seen some pretty narrow tank trailers before without ribs, too. Maybe compressed gas or something. Regardless, having it sit on the shelf won’t hurt anything, until the time comes to use it.

Hmm. Trying to think what you could convert it into. Maybe the tank itself could become a load for a flatbed? A tank of that size would have multiple uses in stationary industrial applications, being delivered as new or a retired one hauled for scrap. It could be detailed with the tank base, mounts, piping outlets, etc. Then, the remaining frame could be fitted with a larger diameter tank to complete the original build concept, which was a good idea.

Beautiful truck! As I mentioned over on the MCM forum, I like the fact you spec’d it with the 2-hole steel wheels, making it unique. Excellent paint and finish. One of my favorite cabovers done well.

Another great heavy-hauler.

Welcome to the group, and I have to say, I really like your builds you’ve posted.

Excellent. Great detail, and that bumper ain't messin’ around.