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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/25/2024 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    Built almost entirely with left over parts from other kits. Holmes 750 style wrecker unit entirely scratch-built.
  2. 2 points
    Modelled after a real wrecker used by a local towing company. Real wrecker weighs 103,000-pound necessitating 5 axles and special permits to operate in most states. Boom rotates 360 degrees and is poseable. It has a scale 8 feet of travel on the frame. Model is almost completely scratch-built using styrene plastic sheets and structural shapes.
  3. 2 points
    Here's some pics of my new 1926 Mack Stake truck. Built box stock with custom built racks and some mild oil and dirt staining which is hard to see in the pictures. This was the log truck version, but I wasn't crazy about the load so I decided to change the bed. I did find certain things that I didn't like in this kit, like poor locater marks and some fitment issues but nothing insurmountable. All in all, I think it looks like a nice model of an historic truck. Sorry about the small pics; for some reason the pictures won't transfer correctly from the camera to the computer.
  4. 1 point
    Look Amazing! Very nice work on the cooler! Excellent work!
  5. 1 point
    Now I like this! Very nice! Excellent work!
  6. 1 point
    Now that we have a rolling (non-rolling) chassis, time to install the engine and add the radiator and charge air cooler. It’s a squeeze, but she fits. There’s a lot of extra parts adding to the overall engine width, like the serpentine bracket, so I made sure to measure and test fit beforehand. To connect the driveline, I made three driveshaft carrier bearings from styrene. Onto the CAC: There’s a void in the aftermarket for a proper charge air cooler/air to air aftercooler. Italeri tried in the 378 kit, but it leaves a lot to be desired. I used the Italeri kit parts as a basis for creating an aftermarket CAC in the style of a Duralite. I added photo etched radiator mesh and modified the side of the kit radiator. Then, adding putty to create the shape needed. The kit’s radiator coolant reservoir was added to the top at this point, but I will replace it later with a better version. On the front side, I added a parallel flow AC condenser unit, made with photo etched mesh. I’ll add the lines to and from it later, as well as the air intake connectors and pipes to the turbo and engine block.
  7. 1 point
    THank you. Resin cab was a bit of a challenge because of the thickness of the casting.
  8. 1 point
    Beautiful paint colors, and details. Impressive scratchbuilding. Love the subject and craftsmanship.
  9. 1 point
    Now onto the rear axles, suspension, hubs and brakes. The main chassis color is Tamiya Semi Gloss Black. There’s a couple other shades of black, and also Tamiya Rubber Black (a very realistic color) used on the air bags. The rear axles needed a sleeve of wider tubing to fit the wheel hubs. Those beautiful real aluminum hubs are from M&R Wheels. Highly recommended, they make excellent products. I got the M&R hubs to go with the Keystone Aluminum Peterbilt Alcoa wheels, which are fantastic, but didn’t come with hubs with a socket for the axle stubs. I probably could have figured out a way to make the Keystone hubs work, but M&R provided a much simpler option. More about the wheels in a later post. I added resin Bendix Air Disc Brake assemblies from Moluminum. Drilled them out to fit over the hub axle mounts. I included air lines to the brake chambers, and ran the lines up to the frame rails. I didn’t bother running lines further than that, because, well, none of this area of the chassis will be seen on the completed model unless you turn it upside down. Not planning on that. The frame rails are mostly devoid of bolt detail for the same reason. In fact, on the rear axles, all you’ll see is the outside wheels and tires. But, I guess when the build is finished, I’ll know the brakes and lines are there and that’s what matters. But, I sometimes have to ask myself “does it matter when you won’t see it?” After all, this project has been about striking a balance between the sane and crazy, right? The front axle has disc brakes, too. I painted and decaled the shocks to represent Bilstein commercial truck and coach shocks. The front brake assemblies were also run with lines, along with the air bags. Air Bag Levelers were added using bits from the parts box. These details make more sense because they will be seen when you tilt the hood. The air lines to the bags are braided line from Detail master with their fittings connecting to the mounts and to the frame rails. The resin air bags are brush painted in Tamiya rubber black. I opted to go with solid bags rather than rubber ones because of the potential amount of weight they’ll need to support. The hubs are fixed in place, not enabling the model to roll, though the front axle steering is functional. I like rolling models, but the vast majority of the time I glue the wheels in place because they can usually be positioned better (plumb and square) that way and they won’t roll off a shelf.
  10. 1 point
  11. 1 point
    Going day cab with headache rack to go with my fleet,,,,,,,when I get back to it. With warmer weather we are getting our garden planted under hot hoop houses and I am heading down south to see my kids/grandkids😜😉😁
  12. 1 point
    I build all my trucks so that no axle turns and agree that is just an accident waiting to happen especially when the grandkid’s are nearby. I do the same but use solid plastic axles and I use Moebius wheelset most of the time. Before glueing the tire/wheel combo on, I will take the time to rotate them, mark them so they all line up well and make contact to the flat surface. Takes time, but to see a finished rig with an inside dual hanging in the air just looks strange.
  13. 1 point
    That looks pretty awesome Victor!! I don't like my wheels to roll, at least not on every axle. For me it is an accident waiting to happen! I like to leave the brakes on.
  14. 1 point