Wheels, tires axle modifications?

[Mike_F]

Good afternoon!

Recently found this forum and after reading some of the posts figured I found the right place to ask my question! I recently started building plastic kit trucks because i figured my wife would like me building and collecting those instead of making my yard a junk lot! Lol! One issue I’m looking to get resolved though is the wheels don’t come out perfect after assembling them and not all roll perfectly easy. I’m wondering if anyone has done any axle modifications? I currently just finished at 359 Peterbilt from Revell. I was thinking about maybe drilling a small hole and running a small piece of round metal through and somehow attaching the wheels to that? Or if there’s somewhere after market for wheels tires also ? I just don’t want to ruin anything I’ve built! These only go on display but would still like it to roll some! Any input would be great!! Thank you!!

[vincen47]

Understandable you’d like them to be able to roll, and there’s nothing stopping you from experimenting with metal rod.

As a side note, I used to try to get the wheels to roll as well, but found the extra effort not worthwhile. Often, they’d be wobbly if they did roll at all. I found it better to get the wheels set perfectly square and plumb and glue them there, as it’s stronger (wheels don’t fall off later) and prevents the model from rolling off the shelf or workbench.

But if you’re going for working wheels, big rig kits tend to be harder to get them to roll because they lack the simple solid metal axle rods that a lot of cars have. So, you have to contend with the plastic wheel to plastic axle connection. The Revell 359 is about the worst kit as far as the design and functionality of the wheels and tires. Other kits are better, but they’re not sure thing either. It’s been a while since I’ve built an AMT truck, but I think they may roll better.

Aftermarket wheels and tires are often a better choice for accuracy and detail, but they usually require you to adapt them to the kit axle, by drilling them out larger or using a plastic sleeve, which often forces you to glue them in place anyway.

One option to consider is the Moebius big rig wheel and tire sets. They’re not too expensive and they look nice. But, when I used them on my 359, I glued them in place, I didn’t look into making them roll, but that might have been possible.

Another idea, I used metal tubing to reinforce the Italeri axles for my current 379-based RV project. The reasoning was to allow the axles to better support the weight of the body going on the chassis. It’s going to be a heavy build. I adapted the Italeri axles to mate with aftermarket aluminum hubs and wheels, resin disc brakes, and resin tires. But again, I wasn’t looking to make them roll, so everything is glued in place.

However, I bet the basic concept could be applied to the rear axles of Italeri kits with a solid rod or open tubing to make them roll as you describe. Try to drill out the axle to fit the rod or tube, and sandwich the two halves over it. Then, making sure it still rotates, glue the wheel sets onto the rod/tube. I’m not sure how you’d approach the front axle, or other brands, but other builders may have ideas.

Edited September 27, 2023 by vincen47

[DRIPTROIT 71]

On 9/27/2023 at 7:10 PM, vincen47 said:

Understandable you’d like them to be able to roll, and there’s nothing stopping you from experimenting with metal rod.

As a side note, I used to try to get the wheels to roll as well, but found the extra effort not worthwhile. Often, they’d be wobbly if they did roll at all. I found it better to get the wheels set perfectly square and plumb and glue them there, as it’s stronger (wheels don’t fall off later) and prevents the model from rolling off the shelf or workbench.

But if you’re going for working wheels, big rig kits tend to be harder to get them to roll because they lack the simple solid metal axle rods that a lot of cars have. So, you have to contend with the plastic wheel to plastic axle connection. The Revell 359 is about the worst kit as far as the design and functionality of the wheels and tires. Other kits are better, but they’re not sure thing either. It’s been a while since I’ve built an AMT truck, but I think they may roll better.

Aftermarket wheels and tires are often a better choice for accuracy and detail, but they usually require you to adapt them to the kit axle, by drilling them out larger or using a plastic sleeve, which often forces you to glue them in place anyway.

One option to consider is the Moebius big rig wheel and tire sets. They’re not too expensive and they look nice. But, when I used them on my 359, I glued them in place, I didn’t look into making them roll, but that might have been possible.

Another idea, I used metal tubing to reinforce the Italeri axles for my current 379-based RV project. The reasoning was to allow the axles to better support the weight of the body going on the chassis. It’s going to be a heavy build. I adapted the Italeri axles to mate with aftermarket aluminum hubs and wheels, resin disc brakes, and resin tires. But again, I wasn’t looking to make them roll, so everything is glued in place.

However, I bet the basic concept could be applied to the rear axles of Italeri kits with a solid rod or open tubing to make them roll as you describe. Try to drill out the axle to fit the rod or tube, and sandwich the two halves over it. Then, making sure it still rotates, glue the wheel sets onto the rod/tube. I’m not sure how you’d approach the front axle, or other brands, but other builders may have ideas.

That looks pretty awesome Victor!!

 

I don't like my wheels to roll, at least not on every axle. For me it is an accident waiting to happen! I like to leave the brakes on.

[Gary Chase]

I build all my trucks so that no axle turns and agree that is just an accident waiting to happen especially when the grandkid’s are nearby. I do the same but use solid plastic axles and I use Moebius wheelset most of the time. Before glueing the tire/wheel combo on, I will take the time to rotate them, mark them so they all line up well and make contact to the flat surface. Takes time, but to see a finished rig with an inside dual hanging in the air just looks strange.