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Gary Chase

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Posts posted by Gary Chase

  1. Posted

    15 minutes ago, Brian Conn said:

        For polypropylene, I would use J.B Weld High Strength Plastic Bonder...it comes in 2 choices, one dries in a Tan color the other dries in Black and both can be sanded after 30 min's.  AND if you look on the front of the package, it says "HD Truck Approved" so you know it was meant for truck builds....right?  :)

    😂🤣😂🤣……I definitely will get some of that

  2. Posted

    16 hours ago, Brian Conn said:

    THANKS!   It's almost a shame that I will end up weathering the chassis with rust and stains, but it is what it is.  My wife is concerned that the trash truck wont look the part of a trash truck that see's a daily route up and down alleys and trips to the land fill.....    

    That’s a tuff call, I like enough weathering to showcase normal wear but when I see these builds from a junkyard perspective, I am amazed and intrigued how they make it look so real. Honestly I enjoy all levels of weathering and wish I had better skills at applying those techniques. I will be watching your build so give us some details as you move forward. 

  4. Posted

    1 hour ago, Brian Conn said:

    ...been fallowing your progress with interest.....looks as if that tank was a build unto itself.

    This was built as a medium duty tank, similar to what we used in the injection molding industry. I think if I did another tank, I would change the design some to reflect the size I built. I wanted to do a hopper bottom although I tried several funnels. None of my glues would adhere to the PVC walls. 

  15. Posted

    Took a break from the truck today and started the trailer build. Using the AMT Lowboy kit as the donor. Will not use the beaver tail, will stretch to 40ft. Build a set of 10 hole wheels. Paint will be turquoise for the frame and semi gloss black for suspension/axles. 369F89D4-4EE8-42E9-9716-A959133566F7.thumb.jpeg.caee9aca528f1005966583b04e0ca412.jpeg

    • Like 1

  22. Posted

    22 hours ago, Brian Conn said:

    That transition from a vertical surface (hood) to a horizontal surface (fender) can be tricky, especially since there is a slight curve and not a 90 degree angle to work with....might try the sealing of the tape method that I previously mentioned. 

    Yes, will give it a try. I still have the other hood (grill not molded in) and paint work is complete. Will try to save the hood first but have a backup plan. 

  23. Posted

    14 hours ago, Brian Conn said:

    ...Which tape did you use?  Reason I asked is that I had the same issue a couple of times doing two tone colors.  I was told to use Tamiya Yellow 10 mm. tape for the wider areas and the White 2 mm. tape for curves, etc.  I have not had any issues, so far, with the Tamiya tapes so long as they are burnished before applying any paint.  If I still have any doubts, I'll shoot a light clear coat or the color that is being covered up,...... in the case of your KW a light coat of the lighter color that will be under the Blue.... on the tape to seal the edges so as not to allow any seepage and it also seems to help prevent paint from being peeled off when removing the tape.                           

    Tamiya 2mm white for the paint line. , I have yellow but never used it as a paint line. I just finished my International 5600 build using the same process with no issues with paint line but this time , no success. 

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