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RANGER DETAIL TECHNOLOGIES ......ITS NOT JUST FIRE TRUCKS I have been ordering Ranger Detail Technologies parts and pieces for upcoming fire apparatus builds for some time now. In doing so, I have come to know Tim Bongard, owner, thru e-mails and phone conversations.....he is a stand up and reputable individual. ... be sure and visit his website https://rangerdetailtechnologies.com/ To be quite honest, I had never intended on using any of the RDT stuff on this build. In the past couple of months , I had received a couple of orders from RDT , of which some of the parts pictured where of those orders. I am at the point of this build where I need to finish the tank portion including the pump cabinet. I started to notice some similarities between the milk tanker pump cabinet and modern day pump panels on fire fighting apparatus....which got me to thinking. I am from the big city...well, Topeka, Ks. ,,,I know milk comes from cows and cows are on farms, that's about the extent of my knowledge. Prior to this build, I had no real concept, other than a truck transported the milk from a farm to the dairy processing plant. I spent quite a bit of time studying and downloading pictures of the pumping cabinets. What I came up with is not going to be a 1:25 replica of any one in particular, but what I think will make for a plausible milk transfer pump cabinet. Here is the picture of the Ranger Detail Technologies parts that I intend to use. It's kind of hard to make out, but next to the Pump Panel Pipes and Caps is a pair of arrow turn signals from one of the Ward-LaFrance cab kits...I think??? Any way they will look perfect on the rear of the tank. Not a whole lot of room to work in, but just enough. Wet sanded using 400, 600 and 1500 grit paper to knock down the rough spots and glue smudges. Sprayed 3 coats of Dupli-Color Chrome.

STICK A FORK IN IT, I AM CALLING IT DONE.☺️ Be sure and check out the completed build in the Model Truck Show Room.

All that is left is getting the few remaining small parts attached, decals and shooting the packer body with a dulcoat......

Got the packer body done, just need to shoot some paint and minor weathering. Finished up the decals.... My goal is to have this show ready by Oct. 3rd

This is going to be the last update for a few weeks. There are a couple of shows that I want to participate in, Oct. 3rd and Nov. 14th. I am closer to being done with the Ford C series/Garwood LP900 trash truck than I am with the Mack. There is a special theme sub category at the Nov. 14th. show “America 250th Birthday” that I will be entering the Mack in sans any decals. I procrastinated too long in getting the decals ordered from STS Decals...my fault entirely...I am in the order process right now and will be getting them after the Nov. 14th show. My plan right now is to get the trash truck completely done by the Oct. 3rd show and have both the Mack and Ford trash truck at the Nov. 14th show. I am doing the decals for the trash truck. UPDATE: I raised the rear fenders. They just looked too close to the top of the tires for me and from what I found on line, my thoughts where correct. Not every DM 800 had rear fenders and those that had this style where not that common, but they did show more clearance than what the kit would have you to believe. I raised them aprox. 3 mm. up which looks a lot better IMHO. I received the C.B radio from Iceman Collections ...great looking piece and will look even better sitting on the dash of the Mack

Completed the interior. The DM 800's had pretty much a spartan interior, so I went with what I was seeing on various truck forums and other sources. I will be adding a C.B radio to the dash and an A.M/F.M radio to the area above the windshield and below the interior roof in front of the driver. I had to adjust both of the shifters towards the drivers side to properly place the passenger seat......yet again vague instructions.....relied a lot on pictures of 1:1 scale DM 800 interiors to get everything placed right.

....finished the pump control cabinet.... Before I forget, I will identify the Ranger Detail Technologies parts used in the building of the pump control cabinet. Keep in mind that I used parts that where originally created for fire apparatus builds, so the wording may not be that familiar to some...it's what appears on the RDT bags. On the blue hose side: On the back side is an ALF (American LaFrance) chrome ring from the ALF Chrome Pump Panel Trim and Surrounds Assortment Sheet Coming out of the chrome ring is a 90 degree pipe that is connected to the back side of the electric pump from the Pipe Fitting Selection - 5 different types of 3 ea. part #7506 The electric pump is a combination of pieces... from L to R ...a 90 degree pipe from the Pipe Fitting Selection - 5 different types of 3 ea. part #7506, the pump end piece is from the Pump Panel Pipes & Caps, the end piece is inserted into a fitting from the Pipe Fitting Selection - 5 different types of 3 ea. part #7506 , between the fitting and the cabinet divider is a modified Improved Draft Hose Coupler On the hose end is a Pump Panel Pipes & Caps This is used to replicate the coupling that is used. Below the electric pump assembly is "T" fitting from Pipe Fitting Selection - 5 different types of 3 ea. part #7506 On the front side of the "T" fitting is a control valve from Pump Panel Pipes & Caps that has been inserted into the "T" fitting to replicate a control valve. On the other side: The electrical control panel box ( orange cord plugged into) is an American LaFrance 700 Series Pumper Body Cabinet Extension I added some drawer detail to the bottom of the control panel box using the Round Slam Lock This is the first time that I have used Ranger Detail Technologies parts for a build and I could not be more impressed. The detail is beyond reproach. The blue hose is 14 AWG wire. The other half (black) part of the electric pump is cut from a sprew. The orange electric cord is the wire used for making fly fishing lures painted orange. The plug ends are round styrene tube and rectangle strip. Used floral wire to make the cord retainers that are attached to the dividing section.

I worked on a garbage truck when i was 15 and 16, all summer long long. Looking at your model, I got flashbacks of the smell of sour milk and rotten baby diapers. Not to mention the life experiences of working along side convicted felons. It that wasn't a modivator towards higher education, I have no idea what would be...

MYSTERY SOLVED!!!! Stumbled across this while looking for something else...as it usually happens. This is the milk tank that I have.....turns out it is an aftermarket piece prior to Al Gore discovering the internet as there is NO website address, only a P.O Box....looks like Testors had some involvement in this project. Looks like I have the #103 as it is not chrome...wish it was. Did a deep dive search for THC World Wide and all I kept coming up with was cannabis related material.

Excellent progress. I’ve enjoyed watching this come together. Best of luck at the show. I’m sure it will be well-received.

Thanks, guys!

Hi Mike, I just joined this great bunch of very smart people and am myself getting back into the hobby. I've built 2 Revell Level 5 Peterbilt 359's and have a third in progress. I've found as Gary said the Mobieus Semi Truck Wheel set to be great but it does it does take some modifications, I don't choose for mine to roll either, too much trouble besides asking for an accident. The people here are highly talented and know what they are talking about, just adding my 2 cents. Good kuck.

So I checked my M.D.T (Mobile Data Terminal) this morning and low and behold its National Truck Driver Appreciation Week...wouldn't have know it if it wasn't for the head of personnel sending out a company wide message saying THANKS!!! for all you do to the truck drivers with in the company ...I am one of 4 I think????... I think every week should be National Truck Driver Appreciation Week ...just saying☺️

Progress update..... This thing pretty much fought me every step of the way...vague instructions along with parts that would not align up ...had to shoe horn the alternator in place, that's a first for me.... This was my first diesel engine and I was not all that familiar with the Mack ENDT 866 , ( I am now after all of the research) with what the kit piece most closely resembles. Building this engine will test your patience...if it doesn't you have the patience of Jobe. Since I stretched the frame I had to add a carrier bearing and second drive shaft. As it so happens the AMT Ford C 900/Garwood LP 900 kit that I am also working on had a shorter drive shaft (for the tractor version, I presume) on one of the sprews. I shortened both the Mack and Ford drive shafts to fit properly and scratch built a carrier bearing out of a section of sprew. OFF TO THE BODY SHOP..... I got rid of the unsightly , IMHO, gap between the grill and butterfly hood sections (white triangle shaped portions) the 1:1 scale trucks didn't have the gaping area unlike some DM 800 builds I have seen on the internet....it's more of a MPC quality control thing verses builder error Did the same thing with the butterfly hood sections. I added styrene strip to the bottom of the butterfly hood to show only a small gap as seen on the 1:1 scale rigs....again correcting a MPC issue Will get the body all cleaned up and get it repainted and re striped next...

PART 2..... In this second part, I will be attaching the aforementioned milk transport tank. The first order of business was to stretch the frame 40 scale inches (40mm.). I had a difficult time locating optional wheelbases for the DM 800. I spent quite a while scouring the Big Mack Trucks forums where I was finally able to locate a wheelbase that ,more than likely, would have been the wheelbase for a 1:1 scale with this type of tank. The chassis is now at a 203" scale wheelbase. As a side note, this wheelbase was also used with the Mack coal dump trucks (coal buckets as they are called in Eastern Kentucky) ..using the length of the dump bed as compared the the length of the milk tank is where I came up with the 203" wheelbase. This wheelbase was referenced a few times in the Big Mack Trucks forums. The black pieces are some "C" channel from some unknown large scale car kit that I formed into plausible frame pieces for the Mack...white pieces are cross members made from Evergreen styrene "I" beams and strips.

....Back to the Ford/Garwood it's been a minute. I wanted to show a cable coming off of the winch spool, so I came up with this. For the cable I used a single strand wrapped around the spool and a braided double strand for the length of exposed cable. The cable is 015. round lead wire used in making fly fishing lures. I carved the hook out of a plastic fork. The Garwood hydraulic winch is rated for 8,000 lbs. and the dia. of the cable is almost spot on for 1:25 scale.

I set a goal of having this a curbside build by the 4th of July and I made it!!!!! This is my way of saying Happy 259th Birthday to the United States of America. This build is far from being done, in fact the cab is not even attached as the interior has been barely started and there still is some body work to be done.

Thanks so much for checking in. I’ve been working on it here and there the past few months, doing more body work, mostly fixing small blemishes. In between, I built a Volvo VN 670, which I’ll post here soon. It gets a little tedious just doing body prep on a scratchbuilding project, so it’s nice to do a “quicker” kit project to break it up. I’ve done at least two more rounds of filling/sanding/primer on the stacker since the last post. I’m hoping that I’m nearing the end of the prep process and I can start paint soon. I’ll do an update when I’m ready for paint. Thanks again.

Here’s the latest update. Over the past couple months, I’ve been finishing the exterior bodywork on the stacker trailer. I’ve done a lot of corrections to the wheel well trim - one of the most difficult things to get right on this trailer. I’ve put four coats of primer on it, correcting minor imperfections in between. More filling and sanding than I originally anticipated, but there’s light at the end of the tunnel. The above photos show one of the workbench sanding sessions in between primer coats. Below are photos from the paint booth during what I hope is the second to last layer of primer.

....One last update for 2025.... Have the hopper done and ready for weathering Began some subtle weathering on the upper panel Will be scratch building the control handle for the over head winch that ties in with the controls for the upper and lower panels HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL AND KEEP ON TRUCKIN'

Thanks for the response!!!! I have had too much outside the hobby room drama going on to maintain the focus and concentration needed...should have knocked this one out a long time ago....so I keep on keepin' on.

Nothing SPOOKtacular to report on this Halloween day........ Inching closer to completion, still a ways to go.....had hoped to have had it in the model clubs annual show coming up in a couple of weeks, looks like next year. Since the P.E kit that I got from S.T.S came with a radio face, I went all in and scratch built an antennae to go with the radio. Still need to dirty up the front of the cab a little bit as the dirty windshield-clean body look wont pass muster with the judges. Scratch built the hydraulic lines for the front of the packer body, also the electrical conduit for the rear of the packer body (vertical round white piece, Left of center going down into truck chassis) Overhead electrical and hydraulic line raceway going towards the rear of the packer body.

...Finally got enough work done on the packer body worthy of posting.... Got the under body control valve assembly plumbed. Used 24 gauge floral wire for the hydraulic lines. I've began some subtle weathering in spots and taped off the areas that need to stay white. All the packer bodies coming off of the Garwood assembly line were painted white, which makes things a lot easier as far as a build goes. Electrical conduit for rear lights on the hopper...located between the hydraulic lines and the under body control valve assembly.....flexible section to be tied in to the trucks electrical system later. Since I am going to be displaying this with the packer body roof off at shows, I added a support rib at the rear of the body to support the race way for the rubber hydraulic lines (3) and the metal electrical conduit. The electrical conduit line is already attached.

IMO, whatever method or material is used, it needs to be easy and easy to sand. For small gaps, I did not like using filler putty. As illustrated above: I sanded the seam on a large flat surface such as a piece of glass or MDF board. To protect as much detail as possible, I taped closely to the cab seam and filled in MrHobby-MrSurfacer 500 primer with a brush. Used as many coats as needed (it took a few). Dry completely. Initial sanding is before the tape is removed, then a careful final sanding. Use tape to protect details while sanding. Then primed with MrSurfacer 1000 or 1500 by air-brush or aerosol can. Since I have not applied a finish paint yet, I cannot be sure of the result. What I am more sure of, is that this is about the limit of effort I am willing to try. Learning from experience with AMT truck models, I have decided to pre-build this and future kits before final paint. Here is a list of found issues for the AMT White-Freightliner A1046-200 DD: 1a) move breather(21) and rocker arm cover(20) to rear of engine 1b) position alternator and belt (14 & 15) close to the oil cooler(7): it may cause interference later 1c) add .010 shim below to air cleaner (28) so that it rests level 2a) glue tires to wheels on final assembly 2b) Hubs seem shallow in final fit (shim out flush to brake drums). 3a) Radius rods(10) will interfere with tires. Install opposite of instruction. Sand to fit. 3b) relieve the front engine mount(4) so that engine sits level 3c) Front axle(8) and Tie Rod(7) too wide by 3/16 " (?) - trim 4) The clear amber & red cracks very easily. Use caution when removing and trimming. Running light lenses{10}(6) prone to breakage 5a) Drill the assembled rear wheels .062 for metal axle fit. 5b) Drill rear brake drum holes for fit. Note different brake chambers(2,1 & 4) for front/rear. Apply only one chamber to the backing plate so it will not interfere with the axle at assembly. 6a) Pre-drill #42 front wheels. Only 2 parking brake chambers (?) when instructions indicate 4. Clearance .092 drill brake drums(7) 6b) Install pitman arm(1) before installing the steering box(2) to the frame. 7a) Exhaust pipe(1) too short. Add 1/8" of 5/32 tube stock 7b) Shift mount(8) too far back 1/8". Part mounting point unclear. 7c) Fuel take (gas cap toward rear) on passenger side (instruction not clear). Other tank goes to driver's side (center gas cap) 7d) Radiator(4) mounting point unclear or aligned with engine fan{1}(18). Install by sight 7e) Lower radiator hose(32) 1/8" too long (trim). 8a) Sleeper wall(10) too far forward. Mount for clearance of seats 8b) Sand sides and back of interior extension(2) to fit, sand lightly front corners of assembled interior(8) 9a) Add 1/8 shims to cab rear panel(1) mounts to level cab when resting on the cab support brackets{3}(17) 9b) Remove the 2 rivets near the side window center pillars if using Photo Etch mirror bracket plates 10a) Cab Steps(3) improper fit. Fill gaps. 10b) Ladders(21) interference fit with front tires. Consider aftermarket parts. Instructions unclear on left side and right side ladders(21). Test fit. 10c) Test fit driving lights(17). May be too big for pockets. 10d) Add a .030 shim to the front bumper(19) inside frame mounting area for alignment with cab. 10e) Remove rivets from underneath the middle running lights bezel(7) As bad as this sounds, the kit does go together with nothing TOO major. I've seen worse. Build quality is an individual decision. Having fun modelling is the most important thing.