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Casey

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Blog Entries posted by Casey

  1. Casey
    Disclaimer.  I am not professional and there is a possibility that I have no clue what I am doing.  I hope that I have put enough info together to give you a good I idea of the steps that I use to create single hump fenders.  If clarification is need, please let me know and I add info/edit as required.  Sorry for not taking a few more/better images.  Hope this helps! 

    1.  Begin by cutting a 1 15/16" round disk from a sheet of .040 sheet styrene.  I used a bow compass with metal points on both sided to get the job done.  If you use this method be sure to make the center hole the same size as the compass point; if it is larger you will not get a symmetrical disk.

    2.  Mount the disk on a Dremel cutting wheel attachment. (The image below shows two mounted but one is fine.)
     
    3.  Begin to round the outer edge of the disk using a rasp of other coarse file, sanding stick etc.

    4.  Fine tune the chamfer of the outer edge of the fender with a sanding block.  I used 220 grit sanding paper.

    5.  Finished disk on the right.

    6. Before performing this step make a mark that divides the disk into two equal halves.  Then cut the center out of the disk leaving a 5/8" circle and then cut the circle in two.  You will then have two "C" shaped pieces as seen in step 7.
    7.  Glue a .060 x.040 styrene strip (SS1) around the outer edge of the "C".  One of the .040 sides should be glued to the "C" and the strip should extend beyond the end of the "C".

    8.  Cut a hole with the same diameter as inner hole of the upper fender wall (UFW) above from a sheet od styrene and layout and cut the lower fender wall (LFW) as seen in the image below and the image in the next step.  (Sorry for not taking better pics of this part)

     9.  Glue the LFW to the UFW and SS1, and cut the ends off SS1 off at the lower edge of the LFW. 

    10.  Cut the lower portion of the LFW to achieve the desired fender height.

    11.  Glue a .030 x .250 strip (SS2) inside of SS1.

    12.  Make another side just like the one above.

    13.  Cut two strips of .020 styrene to the desired fender width (don't forget to account for the width od the sides) and long enough to wrap around the outside of the fender.

    14.  Beginning at one end, glue the first SS3 to SS2, wrapping it around the outer edge of the fender as you go. Be sure to keep the seam between SS3 and SS1 on each side as tight as possible. Cut the ends even with the lower ends of the fender side walls.


    15.  Wrap the second SS3 over the first SS3.  Again, keep the seam between SS3 and SS1 on each side as tight as possible and cut the ends even with the lower ends of the fender side walls.

    Construction complete!

    Fill and Prime

    Paint

    Repeat x4.
    If all this seems like too much work, you can purchase a resin set in the Parts Store. 

    --Casey
     
     
     
  2. Casey
    I just wanted to make a quick note to say thank you to the admins at Model Truck Discussion, Model Truck Mafia, Building Big Rigs Tips and how did you do it and Model Trucks Other Than Pete or KW for allowing me advertise MTB.com  in their Facebook groups.  Thank you to those that have given me permission to post images of their builds in the gallery, to those who have added their own images and to those who have posted in the forums. Finally, thanks to all who have visited and/or registered.  I hope you find your way here often, contribute content when and where you can,  and most importantly, find the site useful and enjoyable.
    Please do not hesitate to let me know what I can do to make MTB.com better.
    --Casey
  3. Casey
    I'm sure that I'm not the first one to do it this way but I was looking for an alternative way to stretch a frame versus  butting the ends of the cut frame rail sections against one another and lapping a strip of styrene over the joint.  Here's that alternative:

    At the Joint of the frame, remove the shaded portion of the frame rail ends as shown below.

    On one frame rail section, remove the center of the vertical portion of the rail leaving the horizontal portion intact (left). The length of the portion removed is not critical, 3/8" or so should work. 
    On the other frame rail section, remove the horizontal portion of the rail leaving the vertical portion intact (right).  The length of the portion removed should be the same as the length of the portion removed from the other frame rail section.  Note:  Do not remove the horizontal portion by sawing along the inner edge of the horizontal portion of the frame rail, you will remove too much material from the tab.  Carefully cut the horizontal portion out with an Exacto knife, etc.

    Connect the two sections like puzzle pieces and glue.  I use a straight edge (in this case my miter box) and a flat surface to align the sections and keep the rail straight while the glue dries.

    Once dry, you should have a strong, straight joint that requires very little filler and is more realistic than the lap joint method.

    Hope this helps,
    Casey
  4. Casey
    As you can see we are just getting started but with some behind the scenes work from the MTB staff and little help from you, we hope to make CHN the go to web site for the truck modeling community!
     
    Since we are asking for “a little help” from you, we thought it only fair that explain why there is room in the truck modeling community for a new site and what our plans are for the site.
     
    As you browse the web, you will find a few modeling magazine websites, some individual truck builder websites and several social media website relating to model truck building.  We have been visiting them for years and they each have merit.  However, they do have their drawbacks.   Magazine websites predominately focus on models other than trucks and typically have a small truck section at best, individual truck builder sites are most often centered around one builder and do not allow others to join the fun, and with social media sites it can be very difficult to impossible to find old user posts.  We are not looking to replace these sites and we realize that it would be impossible to offer everything that they do collectively.  However, we do intend provide many of the same options and most importantly, we hope to provide several that they do not.
     
    MTB will focus solely on model trucks.  While many details are still to be ironed-out, below are several of the features we intend to provide.
     
    Registered members will be allowed to create and reply to posts in the forums, participate in live chat, send private messages to other members, view/download gallery images, view/download hosted files, more.           Forums: finished model show room, WIP workbench, tips and tricks, reference discussion, general discussion and more.         Galleries: model truck gallery, reference image gallery and more.        Downloads: Kit instructions, decal designs, and more.        Personal Blogs for those who wish to chronicle their builds.        Personal Gallery for those who wish to show off their WIP/finished project images.        And you guessed it, much more…  
    Based on the info above, we hope that you will jump in, join the fun and help us grow MTB.com.  Please visit frequently, join the discussion and tell your friends to stop by for a visit!  
    --Casey
  5. Casey
    Who am I and why have I created MTB.com?
    I guess the first thing you need to know is that I am not a skilled writer/blogger so please forgive me if what follows is a bit clumsy.  Second, I am not an expert model builder.  In fact, over the past 20 years, I have only completed two model trucks but I have just recently started two new builds.  Third, I am not a truck expert but I am a huge truck fan. 
    My uncle is an owner operator and from an early age until I joined the Air Force at age 18, I spent every moment I could on the road with him or at the garage helping him work on his trucks.  He has owned many makes; Mack, GMC, International, Autocar, Ford, Freightliner, Peterbilt, Kenworth, and multiple models of most of those makes.  I was bit early and I have never lost my love for trucks.  I picked up some truck knowledge along the way but that knowledge is fairly limited.  I know enough to sound smart to the complete novice and little enough to sound stupid to the experts, so I will spend a lot of time in the "Tips, Tricks and Help" forum.
    Early in my career, I learned that models do not fair well during military moves and thus, I decided to save model building for a later date.  However, thanks to the internet, I have been able to keep up with hobby and with the works of builders like Kuenn McClinton and Tim Ahlborn, I remain inspired to built my own model truck fleet.  I completed what is likely my last cross-country move earlier this year and now it's time to get started!
    I obviously don't need to operate a truck modeling website to build my fleet but having picked up some webmaster skills during my 8 years running C-130Hercules.net, I thought I would try to build a site for the model truck community.  A site where builders can have their own photo album(s) to display their work, find reference photos, chronicle their builds (blog), download kit instructions, share their WIPs, get feedback on their completed builds, and get tips, help and more.  Wish me luck!
    Thank you for stopping by, please join and contribute to the community, and let me know if there is anything I can do to improve your MTB experience.
    --Casey
     
       
     
     
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