A fleet of Freightliner COEs - AMT

[02fusoFG]

The boredom has worn off, and I am back on the bench.  A new journey begins.
Now beginning my 4th build, IMO I have realized the painting and detailing of the cab is the most critical part of the model.

This will be an experiment.  5 kits will be built.  Some of the mundane assembly and painting will be "production-lined" to save time with set-up and clean-up.
I will try new things and test the limit of my skills.  Failure is learning.  One (or more) of the kits will probably be sacrificed and end up in the junkyard. 
I will try different paint schemes.   It will also allow me to choose the "best of _____ part" for a showroom build.

At the Cummins factory, holes are drilled for brass rod. 
 It will be nice to not have to relearn every step.

Some of these are from other kits with variations.   

 

"The Seem"
 

 

First attempt at cutting out the doors was done with an X-Acto knife (an impossible task).
The panel scriber worked much better (but still required an insane amount of patience - be prepared to take your time).

    

A template of the floor  is made for quick fabrication in the future.


Pockets are fabricated for the new door handles.

A thin piece of sheet is glued to support and guide an more natural curve on this PE part.

The windshield wiper is carefully removed,   I am getting lots of practice in manipulating the styrene.



 

  

Edited April 14, 2024 by 02fusoFG
Did not express myself properly and made an unclear statement that could be misinterpreted.

[Gary Chase]

OMG, five kits at once, I can’t finish them one at a time, good luck. Will be watching. 

[02fusoFG]

It was much easier and quicker to use the PE part above than cutting out the grill detail on this cab. 
This  experience will certainly make me think twice before trying to  do a whole radiator.

 

The third window is added to a short cab.  PE window gaskets applied.

Using a sanding sheet taped to a flat surface greatly improved the problematic cab seam.

[02fusoFG]

 

 

Assembled and in primer.

 

[Sedandelivery53]

02fusoFG, Freakin' New Guy (FNG) to the forum. Love seeing the progress work here. I built the Coors Freightliner and Fruehauf set back around 1980, always loved this truck. I have the new DD/SD set and am going to build a custom version with modern power to re-wet my feet into semi-truck model modeling. Having built multiple versions of this kit, what advice can you give on avoiding pitfalls? Especially the cab seem. My idea is to use thin Plastruct upright in the gap with liquid cement between the two (like a sheet of paper), then trim it off with sprue sheers to fill it with less putty. Thoughts? Thanks for any time and wisdom you can dispense.

[Rbray47]

On 2/1/2025 at 8:51 AM, Sedandelivery53 said:

02fusoFG, Freakin' New Guy (FNG) to the forum. Love seeing the progress work here. I built the Coors Freightliner and Fruehauf set back around 1980, always loved this truck. I have the new DD/SD set and am going to build a custom version with modern power to re-wet my feet into semi-truck model modeling. Having built multiple versions of this kit, what advice can you give on avoiding pitfalls? Especially the cab seem. My idea is to use thin Plastruct upright in the gap with liquid cement between the two (like a sheet of paper), then trim it off with sprue sheers to fill it with less putty. Thoughts? Thanks for any time and wisdom you can dispense.

That may work. What I did was sand both pieces as flat and level as possible. I glued them with Tamiya extra thin, then after that dried completely I ran super glue down the seam. I didn't even try to putty it, as there is too much molded on detail that gets in the way. 

[02fusoFG]

On 2/1/2025 at 7:51 AM, Sedandelivery53 said:

02fusoFG, Freakin' New Guy (FNG) to the forum. Love seeing the progress work here. I built the Coors Freightliner and Fruehauf set back around 1980, always loved this truck. I have the new DD/SD set and am going to build a custom version with modern power to re-wet my feet into semi-truck model modeling. Having built multiple versions of this kit, what advice can you give on avoiding pitfalls? Especially the cab seem. My idea is to use thin Plastruct upright in the gap with liquid cement between the two (like a sheet of paper), then trim it off with sprue sheers to fill it with less putty. Thoughts? Thanks for any time and wisdom you can dispense.

IMO, whatever method or material  is used, it needs to be easy and easy to sand.   For small gaps, I did not like using filler putty.
 
As illustrated above:  I sanded the seam on a large flat surface such as a piece of glass or MDF board.
To protect as much detail as possible, I taped closely to the cab seam and filled in MrHobby-MrSurfacer 500 primer with a brush.
Used as many coats as needed (it took a few).  Dry completely.  

Initial sanding is before the tape is removed, then a careful final sanding. 

Use tape to protect details while sanding.   Then primed with MrSurfacer 1000 or 1500 by air-brush or aerosol can.   
Since I have not  applied a finish paint yet, I cannot be sure of the result.  What I am more sure of, is that this is about the limit of effort I am willing to try. 

Learning from experience with AMT truck models, I have decided to pre-build this and future kits before final paint.

Here is a list of found issues for the AMT White-Freightliner A1046-200 DD:

1. 1a)  move breather(21) and rocker arm cover(20) to rear of engine
2. 1b) position alternator and belt (14 & 15) close to the oil cooler(7):  it may cause interference later
3. 1c) add .010 shim below to air cleaner (28) so that it rests level
4. 2a) glue tires to wheels on final assembly
5. 2b) Hubs seem shallow in final fit (shim out flush to brake drums).
6. 3a) Radius rods(10) will interfere with tires.  Install opposite of instruction.  Sand to fit.
7. 3b) relieve the front engine mount(4) so that engine sits level
8. 3c) Front axle(8) and Tie Rod(7) too wide by 3/16 " (?) - trim
9. 4)  The clear amber & red cracks very easily.  Use caution when removing and trimming.  Running light lenses{10}(6) prone to breakage
10. 5a) Drill the assembled rear wheels .062 for metal axle fit.  
11. 5b) Drill rear brake drum holes for fit.  Note different brake chambers(2,1 & 4) for front/rear.  Apply only one chamber to the backing plate so it will not interfere with the axle at assembly.
12. 6a) Pre-drill #42 front wheels.   Only 2 parking brake chambers (?) when instructions indicate 4.  Clearance .092 drill brake drums(7)
13. 6b) Install pitman arm(1)  before installing  the steering box(2) to the frame.
14. 7a) Exhaust pipe(1) too short.  Add 1/8" of 5/32 tube stock
15. 7b) Shift mount(8) too far back 1/8".  Part mounting point unclear. 
16. 7c) Fuel take (gas cap toward rear) on passenger side (instruction not clear).  Other tank goes to driver's side (center gas cap)
17. 7d) Radiator(4) mounting point unclear or aligned with engine fan{1}(18).  Install by sight
18. 7e) Lower radiator hose(32) 1/8" too long (trim).
19. 8a) Sleeper wall(10) too far forward.  Mount for clearance of seats
20. 8b) Sand sides and back of interior extension(2) to fit, sand lightly front corners of assembled interior(8)
21. 9a) Add 1/8 shims to cab rear panel(1) mounts to level cab when resting on the  cab support brackets{3}(17)
22. 9b) Remove the 2 rivets near the side window center pillars if using Photo Etch mirror bracket plates
23. 10a) Cab Steps(3) improper fit.  Fill gaps.
24. 10b) Ladders(21) interference fit with front tires.  Consider aftermarket parts.   Instructions unclear on  left side and right side ladders(21). Test fit.
25. 10c) Test fit driving lights(17).  May be too big for pockets.
26. 10d) Add a .030 shim to the front bumper(19) inside frame mounting area for alignment with cab.
27. 10e) Remove rivets from underneath the middle running lights bezel(7)

As bad as this sounds, the kit does go together with nothing TOO major.  I've seen worse.    Build quality is an individual decision.     
Having fun modelling is the most important thing.

Edited February 6 by 02fusoFG

[Rbray47]

4 hours ago, 02fusoFG said:

IMO, whatever method or material  is used, it needs to be easy and easy to sand.   For small gaps, I did not like using filler putty.
 
As illustrated above:  I sanded the seam on a large flat surface such as a piece of glass or MDF board.
To protect as much detail as possible, I taped closely to the cab seam and filled in MrHobby-MrSurfacer 500 primer with a brush.
Used as many coats as needed (it took a few).  Dry completely.  

Initial sanding is before the tape is removed, then a careful final sanding. 

Use tape to protect details while sanding.   Then primed with MrSurfacer 1000 or 1500 by air-brush or aerosol can.   
Since I have not  applied a finish paint yet, I cannot be sure of the result.  What I am more sure of, is that this is about the limit of effort I am willing to try. 

Learning from experience with AMT truck models, I have decided to pre-build this and future kits before final paint.

Here is a list of found issues for the AMT White-Freightliner A1046-200 DD:

1. 1a)  move breather(21) and rocker arm cover(20) to rear of engine
2. 1b) position alternator and belt (14 & 15) close to the oil cooler(7):  it may cause interference later
3. 1c) add .010 shim below to air cleaner (28) so that it rests level
4. 2a) glue tires to wheels on final assembly
5. 2b) Hubs seem shallow in final fit (shim out flush to brake drums).
6. 3a) Radius rods(10) will interfere with tires.  Install opposite of instruction.  Sand to fit.
7. 3b) relieve the front engine mount(4) so that engine sits level
8. 3c) Front axle(8) and Tie Rod(7) too wide by 3/16 " (?) - trim
9. 4)  The clear amber & red cracks very easily.  Use caution when removing and trimming.  Running light lenses{10}(6) prone to breakage
10. 5a) Drill the assembled rear wheels .062 for metal axle fit.  
11. 5b) Drill rear brake drum holes for fit.  Note different brake chambers(2,1 & 4) for front/rear.  Apply only one chamber to the backing plate so it will not interfere with the axle at assembly.
12. 6a) Pre-drill #42 front wheels.   Only 2 parking brake chambers (?) when instructions indicate 4.  Clearance .092 drill brake drums(7)
13. 6b) Install pitman arm(1)  before installing  the steering box(2) to the frame.
14. 7a) Exhaust pipe(1) too short.  Add 1/8" of 5/32 tube stock
15. 7b) Shift mount(8) too far back 1/8".  Part mounting point unclear. 
16. 7c) Fuel take (gas cap toward rear) on passenger side (instruction not clear).  Other tank goes to driver's side (center gas cap)
17. 7d) Radiator(4) mounting point unclear or aligned with engine fan{1}(18).  Install by sight
18. 7e) Lower radiator hose(32) 1/8" too long (trim).
19. 8a) Sleeper wall(10) too far forward.  Mount for clearance of seats
20. 8b) Sand sides and back of interior extension(2) to fit, sand lightly front corners of assembled interior(8)
21. 9a) Add 1/8 shims to cab rear panel(1) mounts to level cab when resting on the  cab support brackets{3}(17)
22. 9b) Remove the 2 rivets near the side window center pillars if using Photo Etch mirror bracket plates
23. 10a) Cab Steps(3) improper fit.  Fill gaps.
24. 10b) Ladders(21) interference fit with front tires.  Consider aftermarket parts.   Instructions unclear on  left side and right side ladders(21). Test fit.
25. 10c) Test fit driving lights(17).  May be too big for pockets.
26. 10d) Add a .030 shim to the front bumper(19) inside frame mounting area for alignment with cab.
27. 10e) Remove rivets from underneath the middle running lights bezel(7)

As bad as this sounds, the kit does go together with nothing TOO major.  I've seen worse.    Build quality is an individual decision.     
Having fun modelling is the most important thing.

That's a big list, and although I've only built one, I remember a few of those issues. 

[Sedandelivery53]

14 minutes ago, Rbray47 said:

That's a big list, and although I've only built one, I remember a few of those issues. 

Thanks! I built this back when I was 12-13 years old and don't remember any issues, but OCD probably helped me stick it out.

 

 

Edited February 7 by Sedandelivery53
Responded to wrong quote

[Sedandelivery53]

4 hours ago, 02fusoFG said:

IMO, whatever method or material  is used, it needs to be easy and easy to sand.   For small gaps, I did not like using filler putty.

[REDACTED]

As bad as this sounds, the kit does go together with nothing TOO major.  I've seen worse.    Build quality is an individual decision.     
Having fun modelling is the most important thing. 

 

Thanks! I really appreciate the input on this one. I will print out your list and add them to the instructions. Plan is to add M&R metal Freightliner wheels, twin intakes and stacks, and "Turnpiker" style one piece, non-humped fenders. Using etched metal grills, radiators and dash gauge kits from CTM - CZECH TRUCK MODEL. Heard one of these with a Detroit 8V92 in it, was so wicked sounding. Have to find one of those to add too.

Before I build this one, I may be building a Western Star High cabover using an AMT Astro frame (the only one with the correct X-shaped crossmember between the cab and the fifth wheel) that I sniped off of Ebay. Have to find a way to make the Monument Valley paint scheme decals. I'll introduce that topic in the future.  (I redacted the quote to save space in my reply, I saved it as a text to my hardrive).

Edited February 7 by Sedandelivery53
Corrected text