AMT Ford C 900/Garwood LP 900 refuse truck

[Eric]

Brian the governor was a strictly mechanical device with mechanical linkage to the carburetor some may have had an electrical solenoid operated control to step up idle RPM

For PTO operations

In the picture of the back of that engine the electrical sending units you see below the governor are oil pressure sending

Units for the oil pressure gauge, maybe an idiot light and possibly a kisor system which would shut down engine in the event of a

No oil pressure or over heat condition ( these systems used to be common before electronic engines.)

For electrical to the rear of the truck there may have been work lights at the rear of the truck as well as things like a two speed rear end or differential lock which could be electrical solenoid operated.

Hope this helps 

Eric

Edited January 19 by Eric

[Brian Conn]

  First off , huge thanks! 

Here is what has me stumped w/ the engine governor...........I've blurred out the rest of the engine so as to focus on the governor itself......

Notice the very top of the governor....there is a cable that has a threaded end the screws onto the the governor.

This picture shows the cable attached to the governor.....from what I have seen with the other Ford truck  engines, it goes over to the Left side of the engine area and disappears,  It's that cable that I need to know where/what it goes to....I have everything else with the engine figured out,this is the last piece of the puzzle that is holding me up

 

[Brian Conn]

  Since it warmed up to 16`f I decided to do an outside picture..... 

  This shows the air tanks a little bit better as well as the correction that I made to the fuel tank by moving the fuel line back to the rear fittings and adding a line to the sending unit and running it back to the cab area.  

 

 

[Eric]

Brian 

Sorry I didnt get back to you earlier we've been on the road .

The cable you show on top of the governor is a mechanical tachometer drive cable very much like a speedometer drive cable.

[Eric]

Brian 

On your air tanks they would have been set up with two air tanks the first one would be a tank with a centre separator effectively making it two tanks in one.

In this center divider wall there would be a check valve the air from the compressor would be pumped into this first tank was known as the wet tank where the moisture in the air would collect as that compressed air cooled.

Each tank would have a mechanical drain cock to dump any water collected . The wet tank would not have any air lines running away from it as it was only used as a wet tank the other half of that tank was referred to as the primary tank this tank would be used to operate  half of the brake system we'll say the front brakes so there would be an air line running up front to the treadle valve.

From the primary tank there would also be an air line which ran from the primary tank to the secondary tank this air line would have a spring loaded check valve known as a priority valve it would allow the primary tank to pressurize to 70 psi before it would allow any air into the secondary tank this was done to separate the two brake systems front and rear so if an air line where to blow or be severed the other tank would still have air to operate it's related brake system.

The secondary tank  was used to operate the rear brakes and as such had an air line running to the treadle valve as well.

From the treadle valve there would be at least two air lines one running to the front brakes and one running to the rear brakes .

The front brake supply would have a QR ( quick release ) valve in line to aid in dumping air on brake release to speed up the brake release.

The rear brakes may have been the same way or which was more likely the case would have had a relay valve close to the rear axle/s this valve was sometimes mounted right on the secondary air tank next to the axle , the object here was to feed enough air supply to the rear brakes to run as many brakes as there are axles brakes at a faster rate.

This secondary air supply to the treadle valve would also be used to supply air to the yellow parking brake valve on the dash  this valve was pushed in to release the parking/ spring operated brakes and was setup so that in the event of air pressure lose the ( below 60 psi the valve would pop out and dump the air off the parking /spring brake chambers which would allow the springs brake chambers to apply the rear brakes.making the system fool proof.

This valve as mentioned would be either feed from the secondary tank directly ( screwed into the air tank or by a larger air line this relay valve would also have an air line which is run from the treadle valve as a signal line to operate the relay valve the relay valve would also have a QR valve built into it to speed brake release for the rear brakes as well.

The only other line connected to the secondary tank would be for accessories like air suspension,air wiper motors,air horns etc this air supply would be connected to another priority valve screwed into the air tank which would maintain 60 psi in the secondary tank in the event of a major air leak in any of the accessories.

If the vehicle had air suspension it would likely have another air tank feed by this supply.

There would also be a smaller air line from each tank one primary and one secondary these would run directly to the dash to operated either a dual all in one air gauge or two air gauges on the dash.

Hope this helps

Eric

Edited January 26 by Eric

[Gary Chase]

13 hours ago, Eric said:

Brian 

On your air tanks they would have been set up with two air tanks the first one would be a tank with a centre separator effectively making it two tanks in one.

In this center divider wall there would be a check valve the air from the compressor would be pumped into this first tank was known as the wet tank where the moisture in the air would collect as that compressed air cooled.

Each tank would have a mechanical drain cock to dump any water collected . The wet tank would not have any air lines running away from it as it was only used as a wet tank the other half of that tank was referred to as the primary tank this tank would be used to operate  half of the brake system we'll say the front brakes so there would be an air line running up front to the treadle valve.

From the primary tank there would also be an air line which ran from the primary tank to the secondary tank this air line would have a spring loaded check valve known as a priority valve it would allow the primary tank to pressurize to 70 psi before it would allow any air into the secondary tank this was done to separate the two brake systems front and rear so if an air line where to blow or be severed the other tank would still have air to operate it's related brake system.

The secondary tank  was used to operate the rear brakes and as such had an air line running to the treadle valve as well.

From the treadle valve there would be at least two air lines one running to the front brakes and one running to the rear brakes .

The front brake supply would have a QR ( quick release ) valve in line to aid in dumping air on brake release to speed up the brake release.

The rear brakes may have been the same way or which was more likely the case would have had a relay valve close to the rear axle/s this valve was sometimes mounted right on the secondary air tank next to the axle , the object here was to feed enough air supply to the rear brakes to run as many brakes as there are axles brakes at a faster rate.

This secondary air supply to the treadle valve would also be used to supply air to the yellow parking brake valve on the dash  this valve was pushed in to release the parking/ spring operated brakes and was setup so that in the event of air pressure lose the ( below 60 psi the valve would pop out and dump the air off the parking /spring brake chambers which would allow the springs brake chambers to apply the rear brakes.making the system fool proof.

This valve as mentioned would be either feed from the secondary tank directly ( screwed into the air tank or by a larger air line this relay valve would also have an air line which is run from the treadle valve as a signal line to operate the relay valve the relay valve would also have a QR valve built into it to speed brake release for the rear brakes as well.

The only other line connected to the secondary tank would be for accessories like air suspension,air wiper motors,air horns etc this air supply would be connected to another priority valve screwed into the air tank which would maintain 60 psi in the secondary tank in the event of a major air leak in any of the accessories.

If the vehicle had air suspension it would likely have another air tank feed by this supply.

There would also be a smaller air line from each tank one primary and one secondary these would run directly to the dash to operated either a dual all in one air gauge or two air gauges on the dash.

Hope this helps

Eric

That is some great info and explanation, going to print this out. Question: I have seen an air tank for each rear axle, 2axles, 2tanks, 4 axles, 4 tanks. As I understand these where for air brakes and air suspension?

[Eric]

Yes the extra tanks where to make sure there was enough reserve air for multiple brake applications and in the case of vehicles which were used off road such as logging trucks they where common to have more air tanks dedicated to the suspension systems one per axle to help with the extra air usage by the ride control valves over uneven terrain the alternative to this was to use ride height valves with a damper to slow their reaction time to changing ride height. Remember that air suspension was considered an accessory and would only receive air after the brake air tanks where filled above 70 psi requiring separate tanks to maintain the separation .

On trailers such as  a low boy it was common to have dump valves to lower the deck for loading ,these systems often used larger or more air tanks with relay valves and larger air lines to the air bags to help speed the recovery of ride height when loading was complete as this operation would use more air volume than could be supplied from the tractors air compressor quickly .

[Brian Conn]

   Finished up the rear axle.....

 Huge thanks to Driptroit 71  He did a post at Modelcarsmag.com forum in regards to different types of truck air brakes  https://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/175424-different-types-of-truck-air-brakes/   I used some of his pictures for reference on this build. 

 

[Brian Conn]

 Yikes!!!  It's been almost 4 months since  the last update.....

  Have not had much time in the hobby room due mostly to work, going into a slower part of the year so hopefully more free time...

It's a roller! Finally got it up on all fours...scratch built rubber air line and frame fitting (Right front).

  The entanglement of wires and etc. on the Left front of the engine is what will be going into the cab to represent electrical, tach drive and  air lines.

 

  Kind of hard to see, scratch built rubber power steering lines between power steering pump and steering ram cylinder 

Scratch built a shifter cable between transmission and what will end up in the cab area...kind of hard to see...its on what is the bottom side of the transmission and towards the rear in the picture.

  Up next is installing the PTO pump and shaft and wiring and installing the battery box.

[Gary Chase]

Glad to see ya back on it, looking good

[Brian Conn]

...Thanks Gary....working on the build as spare time permits.

  Got the PTO pump attached and the battery box attached and wired....scratch built a Ford starter solenoid.  Will start working on the cab and cab interior soon.  Got some P.E for the cab.....lots of little pieces, but it should bring the WOW factor, least I hope so.    

[Brian Conn]

  Started to work on the cab........

  I'm pretty happy with the way the cab sits...I used the rear cab support as a reference guide as compared to 1:1 trucks as well as the position of the front wheels in the wheel wells.  I did have to do some modifying along the way....

  On the engine, I went with an aftermarket, pre-wired distributor and a scratch built oil filler tube riser to clear the coolant expansion tank piping.  In doing this , the cab did not want to sit down properly with the cab hinges attached as the bottom was making contact with the distributor and the back , vertical portion was in contact with the riser.  To correct this, I raise the flat piece that the seats attach to aprox. 2 mm. and redid the vertical back piece with a very thin piece of flat styrene slightly angled out more at the bottom once cuts where made in the kit piece.     

  This is the bottom side of the cab.  You can see were I made cut outs for clearance for the air intake pieces, the distribtor and oil filler tube riser.  Once everything was were I wanted it , I boxed the cut out area in.  

 

 

Edited October 23 by Brian Conn

[Brian Conn]

  Finished up the cab interior.....it still looks like I need to dull coat the seats a little bit more as pictures dont lie....still a bit shiny for my taste.

Roughed up the drivers seat a little bit to show wear and tear.

Gauge cluster ,lower dash and radio are PE from ST Supply.  My first time using PE on anything.  Had to re-work the kit dash to make everything fit right.

Scratch built the blower motor for the heater, dash/radio knobs and air brake control and panel. 

Edited October 23 by Brian Conn

[vincen47]

Looking great. I’m enjoying this build.

[Brian Conn]

   I'm glad your enjoying it...been enjoyful for me as well now that I have more time to spend in the hobby room.

  I've got a couple of new technics that I am going to try my hand at.....weathering the glass ala' Dr. Cranky style and using a Silly Winks foam sheet for the headliner.  videos on youtube if anyone is interested.

 

 

Edited October 6 by Brian Conn

[Mini Deluxe]

AWESOME Details and scratch Building skills.  

Would love to see some youtube video action on this build. 

Could you post the link for us here so we can find easily?    Thanks in advance. 

 

[Brian Conn]

  Thank you for your comments, they are much appreciated!

  For me to have a youtube channel I would more or less have to convert the hobby room into a studio....I would much rather build than have to deal with releasing videos....I feel that I would become a slave to making youtube videos thus ruining any relaxation that I get from building.  Secondly, I would not want my name associated with some of the advertising that is viewed there.

  I would much rather have a million friends than a million views.

  As far as action goes on this build or any future truck build for that matter here,on these forums, is where its at....your not going to find them any place else.

  Here are the links I think that you are referring to......

    Here  is the link for glass weathering:   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EzFUIrzNCWY

    Here is the link for headliners: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DIXPfZCrSe4

  If anyone ever has any questions on how I did something , I would gladly like to be of assistance 

  

 

 

 

[Gary Chase]

Can’t wait to see this finished, like where this is going. 

[Brian Conn]

  Shot this first light coat of color with the air brush....turns out there was cracks in the pick up tube...will have to sand out the areas of splatter and re shoot, other than that I'm o.k with it.  

[Mini Deluxe]

On 9/27/2024 at 5:25 PM, Brian Conn said:

  Thank you for your comments, they are much appreciated!

  For me to have a youtube channel I would more or less have to convert the hobby room into a studio....I would much rather build than have to deal with releasing videos....I feel that I would become a slave to making youtube videos thus ruining any relaxation that I get from building.  Secondly, I would not want my name associated with some of the advertising that is viewed there.

  I would much rather have a million friends than a million views.

  As far as action goes on this build or any future truck build for that matter here,on these forums, is where its at....your not going to find them any place else.

  Here are the links I think that you are referring to......

    Here  is the link for glass weathering:   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EzFUIrzNCWY

    Here is the link for headliners: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DIXPfZCrSe4

  If anyone ever has any questions on how I did something , I would gladly like to be of assistance 

  

 

 

 

Thank you for the links my friend.  I completey understand your stance on youtube and agree that sometimes energy's are spent better on projects that count and also not disturbing workflow or area where this takes place.. I Also agree that Ads seem to have gone crazy on this platform and is very unfortunate for a lot of us as viewers that are just trying to gain knowledge and insight on the subject at hand and not filled with interruptions or pure rubbish that we are forced to intake.  Your Quote "I would much rather have a million friends than a million views."  is spot on!!  Thank you for your posts and insights and techniques and will be watching further progress with an eagle eye.

Edited November 8 by Mini Deluxe

[Brian Conn]

Thanks!!! Just about got the cab wrapped up and have started on the packer,hopefully posting some progress pictures soon. 

[Brian Conn]

  First off a salute to my fellow veterans on the forum.....

I have started to work on the packer body and its separate components.

This is from the Garwood sales brochure for the LP 900 packer.  This is the view looking forward towards the truck cab from inside the packer body.

    

Here is the same part from the kit.  The lower portion and upright portions are part of the hydraulic tank.  I am going to be displaying this at model shows with the roof of the packer body off, so I will be filling in those open portions with styrene sheet to replicate the hydraulic tank shown in the sales brochure.

This is also from the LP 900 sales brochure.  This view is from the front part of the packer body looking towards the rear of the ejection panel..... the sliding panel that pushes out the trash at the landfill as well as compacts the trash being picked up.  I will be cutting a notch in the ejection panel for the raceway and attaching it so that the raceway will stay in place with the roof off instead of making it part of the roof as shown in the brochure.

  

  These are the inside of the packer body sides.  I understand to make the injection mold process work that AMT had to do it this way, but the insides need to be flat with no obstructions.  These raised parts would be disastrous in the real world.  I will be filling in the areas between the raised parts with styrene sheet to have a smooth interior of the packer body.  

[Brian Conn]

  I got some more work done on the packer body interior.

  

Filled in the open areas on what is the 1:1 scale hydraulic oil tank with styrene sheet.  Did some subtle weathering.

   

For what ever reason there is a notch on both upper corners of the kit ejector blade.  I filled in the upper Right notch with a piece of styrene sheet.

Filled in the interior wall (Left piece} with styrene strips and automotive glazing and spot putty.  Will leave the sanding scratch marks in place on the rear 2/3rd's for metal to metal contact effect.