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Chariots of Fire

1944 Diamond T 6x6

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This will become the latest project to build.  It's been on my mind for a while now but was put on the back burner until the modeling juices were re-energized.  So the frame has been started.   Completed since this photo was taken is the main frame bracket for the tandem rear axles.  Will be making a trip to the LHS to get some strip brass for the springs.  Front springs are 49" long and 3" wide.  Rears are 4" wide and roughly 51" long.  Since I work at 1/25 scale, metric measurements come in handy so I will be looking for 3mm and 4mm strip stock.

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It’ll be a neat project. The frame looks great, straight and square. What’s you’re rough estimate as to the ratio of scratch-built to kit or aftermarket-sourced parts and components? I’m sure you have a detailed build plan, and I’m always curious how you approach such a project. 

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Wow!  Never actually gave that much thought.  But it is probably 95% scratch vs 5% kit or after-market.  

I always approach a project from the frame up just as a real builder might.  The difference being that while the frame is done in one factory, the body parts are being stamped and assembled in another location.  In this case it is much like building a house.  Get the foundation true and square and the rest should follow along.  Same thing with the frame and the location of mounting points, etc.  But I don't have a separate cab or body factory so they will be done after the frame is built.  

There is a fair amount of study of photos and information such as is contained in the Walk Around book like you see in the photo.  The questions to answer revolve around how a certain feature will be built and out of what materials.  Right now I am working on the rear tandem setup.  Up until yesterday I needed to know how the pivot was built and attached to the frame.  I finally came across a maintenance manual that had photos of exactly what I was looking for and will use them to create the parts in brass.  I also know where the mounting points will be on the frame because the parts are centered on the length of the wheel base.  The front spring hangers are in place so I know where that center will be.  From there it is just marking out the length of the wheel base on the frame and holding everything to it.

I'll try and include some added information as the project moves along.

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In between my 1:25 scale projects, I started this 1:14 Tamiya RC truck.  I’ve been painstaking wiring each light.  The lights I acquired form Evans design they have amazing LEDS of every size.  The trailer lights and related attachment points had to be customized as the kit does not allow for side markers, only rear tail lights and turn signals.  I also upgraded the tractor roof lights from 5 to 7 along with required bondo work on roof and rear of sleeper.  The air intakes are custom aluminum which I drilled out to receive 7 lights each.  That was one of the most difficult parts.  I would have loved to have added reds as well but there simply was not enough room.  The front bumper came with a pre wired circuit board, which I quickly figured out how to short circuit. So I had to Individually solder and wire each of those separately as well.  I’ll have 6 blue LEDs under the sleeper.  I’m 90% done and can post additional photos later if you like.  The cab in this photo is just resting on the frame, not properly installed and today I will be adding 6 custom red lights to the back of the sleeper.  Ideally, I’d love to find someone who can 3D print a thermo king reefer in 1:14 scale, so if anyone knows someone let me know.  Thank you.

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Got a bit more done.  Axles are set up and as of last nite the front axle has the steering knuckles done along with the steering arm and tie rod.  Will post pix of the work.  But here is where we are as of a couple of days ago.

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The "X" shaped pieces are the steering knuckles before being cut down to the proper length.  The tubing is made so it can be inserted into the tubing that runs through the front axle.  The wheels and wheel hubs have been made up and can be mounted with screws and small washers.

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Got a bit more done on the chassis and axle assemblies.  Lots of small stuff to do to get it all together.    All torque rods are in place.   Front axle is glued to the springs and U-bolts added.  The springs are still detachable and will need final pinning.  The rear axles are finished along with brake parts.  The axles pivot up and down with the springs floating free on top.   Drive shaft between axles is also in place.  Tires and wheels are still unattached and will have to be painted before they can be mounted in place.IMG_2548.thumb.JPG.4917772f5492cf39e0551e79048a337c.JPGIMG_2549.thumb.JPG.3bb9573a9de2753fbd008a700bad1ed3.JPG

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Been a while since posting progress on this rig.  There have been a lot of detail pieces to figure out and get done.   So this is where the chassis is of a couple of days ago.

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Drive shafts are connected except for the one that goes between the transmission and transfer case.  The engine has to be built first.  Most of the chassis is now finished.

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The steering is complete along with shocks and final connections for the springs.

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I made a buck to shape the bumpers on the back of the frame.  The brass was first annealed to soften it for forming.  The pintle hook opens and swivels.  Brass pins were used for the rivet details.

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A look at the rear spring details without the tires in the way.

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On each of the front wheels and the outside rear wheels I shaved away the lug nuts.  When the wheels were cast, the lugs did not always come out as they should.  They were replaced by drilling holes where the lugs were and inserting pieces of brass wire in their place and slipping some #15 fusion beads over them.  CA holds them all in place.  The rears were trimmed on the back side so that the wheels would fit against the inside ones.  Once all is complete, the hubs where the screws and washers show will be covered with appropriate caps.

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Got some engine work done.  The truck is powered by a Hercules RXC 6 cylinder engine.  No kit has this engine so it is off to the scrap yard, parts bin and the materials bay to get enough to work with.  The block and oil pan are Renshape-like materials.  Other stuff is mainly plastic and brass.  The TM for the '44 Diamond T has been a good source of info as has the maintenance manual.

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"Got some engine work done" Ummm Yessir , I'll say!

This is just amazing. I can't stop grinning and looking at the details.

Astonishing.

Johnny

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Picking up speed a bit.  The cab and radiator are taking shape.  It's beginning to look something like a truck now.  This is going to be the soft top version of the military Diamond T so it has small half doors on each side.

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Question: Did you make those white plastic parts yourself? I went back through your earlier posts on this build and saw some of them sitting in a container but I didn't know whether they came out of a kit or you had made them. You must have made the parts for the engine , and they look really well done.

Johnny

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With very few exceptions all of what is in white is what I have either made from plastic stock or have cast in white resin.  The only things that are kit pieces are the air brake components on each axle, a couple of frame cross members, and the voltage regulator on the firewall.  Sorry, I forgot; the fan also.😊

Yes, the engine is scratch built as well.  Renshape for the block and oil pan.  Other parts are plastic tubing, strip stock, brass wire, brass tubing and some craft wire for spark plug wires.  Fan belts are electical black tape.  Pulleys are lathe turnings.

Edited by Chariots of Fire

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Been doing some fender work.  The material is Renshape.  No grain because its extruded plastic sort of like plastic decking.  The rough profile was cut on a bandsaw and sanded smooth using a disk sander.  The underside of the fender is carved out using my Dremel and a sanding drum.

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Excellent progress. There’s much to be enjoyed when shaping and forming raw material by hand into those parts, I’m sure. 

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