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The Original Super Glue (two in a package for a buck at Dollar General), usually the thin stuff (red cap) but occasionally I'll use the gel (green cap). I use good old white craft glue for things like clear lenses. I also live dangerously sometimes and use it on clear parts, if the glue surface isn't exposed, in which case I'll revert to the white glue. 

Yes, cyanoacrylate glue can "fog" clear and chrome parts, but usually a quick swipe or two with a polishing cloth or a thin, brushed on coat of Pledge Future floor polish (or whatever clear you prefer to use) will do away with that. 

I used to use two-part epoxy but never liked it- just too messy for me. 

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I usually have the Revell of Germany glue, with the needle. The needle is for pinpoint application. Also superglue for resin and metal parts, but that just depends on what's available (and cheap)...

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I use dollar store super glue and super glues fix all adhesive on a toothpick it's like rubber and doesn't discolor things and keeps things in place without having to hold etc works really good if careful. works great repairing leather too because it's flexible great stuff super cheap at a buck a tube and it's a big tube

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In all the years I have been modeling I have tried many types of glue. The glue that has never let me down is Tamiya Cement.

The glue is clean and it doesn't stink out the house like some other glues.

I also find I don't use as much glue and one bottle lasts quite a few kit sets.

When I have made mistakes with gluing parts the Tamiya has been very forgiving

John

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Hi:

     I'm a newbie in here and what I used for most of my plastics is not really a glue at all, but a bonding agent. It's called Bondene. It is a clear liquid and is like water. Use a small brush to apply. You put your pieces together, leave a small gap, touch the brush with bondene to the gap. It will flow through capillary action down the joint. Squish the pieces together and it's done. For long seams, repeated applications are need for each section but will be stronger than the plastic around it. The plastic will break before the bond will. I swear by it for plastics. For clear parts I use a clear parts cement. For resins, super glue or epoxy.

Stephen

intruder500

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On 5/9/2021 at 5:17 PM, intruder500 said:

Hi:

     I'm a newbie in here and what I used for most of my plastics is not really a glue at all, but a bonding agent. It's called Bondene. It is a clear liquid and is like water. Use a small brush to apply. You put your pieces together, leave a small gap, touch the brush with bondene to the gap. It will flow through capillary action down the joint. Squish the pieces together and it's done. For long seams, repeated applications are need for each section but will be stronger than the plastic around it. The plastic will break before the bond will. I swear by it for plastics. For clear parts I use a clear parts cement. For resins, super glue or epoxy.

Stephen

intruder500

 

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On 3/18/2022 at 4:47 AM, BuddyT said:

Where do you find Bondene? Is it similar to Bondo?

You can usually find it in any hobby store that sells plastruct plastic products. Its specially formulated for plastruct plastic. It is not bondo. Other products similar to bondene are any type of liquid cement such as tamiya extra thin cement. 

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