Casey

Lookin' good! When I get settled in my new place, I think I will give a similar project a shot. --Casey

That is horrible. Unfortunately, I do not have any spare Italeri stuff. I would suggest asking on one of the Facebook groups. I'm sure some will have one to give/sell you. Please keep us updated on the build. --Casey

Nice looking outfit. Great job!

Glad to have you back with us Mike. There are many advantages to Facebook but there are also plenty of risk that comes along with it. I am convinced that a site(s) like this one is better suited for our hobby than the FB groups. Maybe others will make the same decision that you have and decide to contribute. Regardless, I plan to maintain this site for those of us that enjoy it. --Casey

Welcome to MTB! Please let me know if you need any assistance with the site's features or if you have any suggested site additions/improvements. Glad to have you back in the hobby and glad to have you with us. --Casey

Have you seen these? They are very close to the ones on the truck and they are very available. --Casey

Now available in the MTB Parts Store: Revell Snap Pete Drop Visor 2.75" Flat Bottom Dove Tail Spoiler 3.25" Flat Bottom Dove Tail Spoiler http://www.modeltruckbuilder.com/index.php?/store/

That's some nice looking work right there! Cant wait to see more!

Sounds like a fun project. Please update us as you progress.

Very nice. Thanks for sharing.

Welcome to MTB.com! Please let me know if you need any assistance with or have suggestions for improving the site. I can't help you with the frame rails but I did put together a frame stretch tutorial that you may find interesting. --Casey

Very nice. The spare tire holder is a nice touch.

I'm sure that I'm not the first one to do it this way but I was looking for an alternative way to stretch a frame versus butting the ends of the cut frame rail sections against one another and lapping a strip of styrene over the joint. Here's that alternative: At the Joint of the frame, remove the shaded portion of the frame rail ends as shown below. On one frame rail section, remove the center of the vertical portion of the rail leaving the horizontal portion intact (left). The length of the portion removed is not critical, 3/8" or so should work. On the other frame rail section, remove the horizontal portion of the rail leaving the vertical portion intact (right). The length of the portion removed should be the same as the length of the portion removed from the other frame rail section. Note: Do not remove the horizontal portion by sawing along the inner edge of the horizontal portion of the frame rail, you will remove too much material from the tab. Carefully cut the horizontal portion out with an Exacto knife, etc. Connect the two sections like puzzle pieces and glue. I use a straight edge (in this case my miter box) and a flat surface to align the sections and keep the rail straight while the glue dries. Once dry, you should have a strong, straight joint that requires very little filler and is more realistic than the lap joint method. Hope this helps, Casey

I agree. I like the two-hole bud wheels as well. Especially on the rear.

Looking real good. Working on that motor would be zero fun.

Fantastic! We appreciate the support.

Another beauty. Thanks for sharing!

Man that sleeper top was some serious work. Beautiful model!

Welcome to the site! Please let me know if there is anything I can help you with and/or if you have any suggestions that may help us improve the site. I'll be sure to check-out your YouTube channel.

Snagged these off of Facebook with permission from @HeavyHauler. All I can say is Wow!! Resin C-15 Cat cast by Jamie RahmoellerI at http://moluminum.com/ Built by @HeavyHauler

Nice, clean build. Thanks for sharing.

Awesome! It is now the site's featured model. --Casey

Glad to have you with us Roger! Please let me know if you have any site addition/improvement ideas. --Casey