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Fuel tanks coming together, more detail work. Visor is scratch built and ready for final fit. Grill stripped, all goobers removed and rechromed.

Well the weather becoming cold and snowing here, so I can get some bench time this week. Added some more color to the hood (too much white). Still working out the fuel tanks and roughing out a new visor.

The Mack and Dodge are several years old, and the Ford was a recent build. The Mack and Ford are straight from the box (mostly) The Dodge has a stretched frame and scratch built log bed with Moebius wheels. While I still don't have room for many trucks, I've got the itch to start back again. I've already bought a couple more kits and have learned a few things browsing this forum.

A couple of better pics without the day glow green reflection of my work shirt.

Progress with fuel tanks

I finished this build right before Christmas last year. No frame stretch, just removed sleeper and scratch built the flatbed and fuel tanks.

Pulled this one back on the bench while I am waiting on parts for two other builds. Nothing special, just a box build with a couple upgrades.

Built almost entirely with left over parts from other kits. Holmes 750 style wrecker unit entirely scratch-built.

This was built from an old Mark Savage cab. It has an M11 Cummins from Gary Wallace.

Going day cab with headache rack to go with my fleet,,,,,,,when I get back to it. With warmer weather we are getting our garden planted under hot hoop houses and I am heading down south to see my kids/grandkids😜😉😁

Daycab or kit sleeper?

It’s the engine that came in the kit with a single turbo, pretty standard fare in the Ertl/AMT International kits. A lot of the parts don’t fit well, got to adjust a lot

That's gonna be nice. The painted tanks will definitely be an upgrade. Engine and trans look great. But what kind of engine is that? Looks like it has a turbo propelled by both banks of cylinders -- is it like an 8V-92 or something? (Duh --not the world's biggest Detroit expert) Johnny

Working out the kit bugs but got some progress today. Got the chrome stripped from the grill and cleaned it up. Tomorrow finish up the tanks.

Decided I didn’t like the fuel tanks I was building so I dechromed them, glued them, filled a the seams and sink and sanded the straps off. Will rebuild from here. Got the last coat of paint on cab, second color applied to hood and painted a bunch of miscellaneous parts.

Moved the hood/cab back to center the front wheels. Used wide front wheels and changed the offset to narrow up the front axle.

This is currently my only truck build. It's meant to be a Post Apocalypses RV that was patched together from various bits to roam the wasteland. I started with an Autocar Dump Truck and Italeri 20' Container. Reefer unit converted to HVAC system, Air Filtration, Power Fan, Custom front bumper and a frame mounted generator to name a few of the upgrades. Stretched frame, new wheels and tires, pusher axle and many 3d printed parts leads us to where we are today. Occasionally I add a few more bits to it as I find or design files. Hope you enjoy, I know it's a bit different from what you're used to.

Just a box stock rendition of the Atlantis reissue, finished with Tamiya paints and Monroe weathering powder. This is the first one I've built out of the box, and now I've started a second. 🤣 Now I need to go through my back issues of Model Cars Magazine and find the series from the 2007 NNL.

This was a resin conversion from an unknown caster. The chassis was made from spare parts.

Holmes came out with their '750' unit' in 1962 and produced them until 1990. Tow truck operators loved them because they were rugged, and many have been quoted as saying "the 750 would break something before it ran out of pulling power". Quite an endorsement. I always liked to look of the 750 and decided I would try my hand at one...with a couple of practical additions. I found out from research that the extendable booms the 750 had were notorious for being difficult to extend by hand and operators often had to rely on something more powerful than a man to pull the telescopic booms out, usually another wrecker had to do it. My solution was to add small hydraulic cylinders to the side of the square booms to extend the telescopic boom. Also in the 21st century world of trucking any wrecker not having an underlift is limited on what they can actually tow. So I added one. The wrecker bed/body is a modified "big stick' unit. Everything else is scatchbuilt. Here's my rendition.

Option #1 it is.

Went with the entire Moebius front floats/super singles set. The battery boxes are in place and I went with the optional roo-bar front bumper.

This mini-vacuum is the best $20 you will ever spend. You can order it on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074SJLGXW?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details As you know, building a model is full of challenges and one of them is keeping parts and the work area clean. This little tool has just the right amount suction to gently remove the styrene dust and shavings that get everywhere. I cannot recommend it enough. It is always at my side.

I just finished this one.

I'm sure that I'm not the first one to do it this way but I was looking for an alternative way to stretch a frame versus butting the ends of the cut frame rail sections against one another and lapping a strip of styrene over the joint. Here's that alternative: At the Joint of the frame, remove the shaded portion of the frame rail ends as shown below. On one frame rail section, remove the center of the vertical portion of the rail leaving the horizontal portion intact (left). The length of the portion removed is not critical, 3/8" or so should work. On the other frame rail section, remove the horizontal portion of the rail leaving the vertical portion intact (right). The length of the portion removed should be the same as the length of the portion removed from the other frame rail section. Note: Do not remove the horizontal portion by sawing along the inner edge of the horizontal portion of the frame rail, you will remove too much material from the tab. Carefully cut the horizontal portion out with an Exacto knife, etc. Connect the two sections like puzzle pieces and glue. I use a straight edge (in this case my miter box) and a flat surface to align the sections and keep the rail straight while the glue dries. Once dry, you should have a strong, straight joint that requires very little filler and is more realistic than the lap joint method. Hope this helps, Casey